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My 04 Durango alt 4.7 is running hot I have replaced temp sensor thermostat relay radiator cap.. If I run heat on hi it will stay below half way. If I turn it off of heat it starts to over heat.. So lost.. Anybody????
 

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Rok:
Welcome to DDN. Did you properly remove the air from the cooling system? Did the overheat issue come on by itself, or after some work on the cooling system?

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My 04 Durango alt 4.7 is running hot I have replaced temp sensor thermostat relay radiator cap.. If I run heat on hi it will stay below half way. If I turn it off of heat it starts to over heat.. So lost.. Anybody????
Rok:
Welcome to DDN. Did you properly remove the air from the cooling system? Did the overheat issue come on by itself, or after some work on the cooling system?

Don
Yes. I've tried several times.. I had it running front lifted for 30 min. Never stopped giving little bubbles by bleeder valve.. Temp gauge was under half way but seemed hot. I did see some sand or something by cap when I released it hot today. I ran house through top of radiator seemed fairly slow drain on bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes. I've tried several times.. I had it running front lifted for 30 min. Never stopped giving little bubbles by bleeder valve.. Temp gauge was under half way but seemed hot. I did see some sand or something by cap when I released it hot today. I ran house through top of radiator seemed fairly slow drain on bottom.
Never done any work to it just started out of the blue..
 

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When purging the air, you need to have the heater(s) on high, and run the rpms up to 1.5-2k several times while you continue to top off the coolant as the air works up and out. At some point, all the air will be out. If you continue to have air, you may have a headgasket leaking. Hopefully, this is not the case. It should run a needles width or two under the half way mark is all is good. Did you drop in a new t stat while you were at it? When was the last time you drained and refilled with fresh coolant?

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When purging the air, you need to have the heater(s) on high, and run the rpms up to 1.5-2k several times while you continue to top off the coolant as the air works up and out. At some point, all the air will be out. If you continue to have air, you may have a headgasket leaking. Hopefully, this is not the case. It should run a needles width or two under the half way mark is all is good. Did you drop in a new t stat while you were at it? When was the last time you drained and refilled with fresh coolant?

Don
Done all that.. Tested for head gasket pressure test coolant test changed it all. I'm leaning towards bad radiator.. Gonna go get a flush kit tomorrow.. See what happens..
 

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Sure does sound like a flow problem. Turning on the heater uses the heater core as a mini radiator. Either thermostat or radiator. Even if you replaced the thermostat it could be bad new. Did you test it in boiling water to see if it opened before installing? Aftermarket thermostats or suspect out of the box and there have been reports of dealer purchased thermostats being bad new.

What engine do you have? And if you suspect the radiator now why waste your money on a flush kit and just buy a new radiator? They're between $91-200 on RockAuto for a new one for a 5.7L. Even less for the 4.7L. I'd think Advance Auto or NAPA locally would be similar pricing to that.
 

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Could also be a water pump impeller problem with flow. Again...not a super expensive part.
 

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When you refill it for the final fill, be sure to use the proper coolant for your model year. The gold colored G-05 coolant is correct, and works fantastic. Once you are at/over 30 mph, the natural air flow as you move down the road should keep things cool. If the overheating was at low speeds, or while stationary, I would suspect the fan clutch.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could also be a water pump impeller problem with flow. Again...not a super expensive part.
Could also be a water pump impeller problem with flow. Again...not a super expensive part.
That was
When you refill it for the final fill, be sure to use the proper coolant for your model year. The gold colored G-05 coolant is correct, and works fantastic. Once you are at/over 30 mph, the natural air flow as you move down the road should keep things cool. If the overheating was at low speeds, or while stationary, I would suspect the fan clutch.

Don
It over heats when driving or idling unless heat is full blast..
 

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In that case, I would also lean towards the radiator being clogged as well. Have you gone back and re purged the system? If you have air in it, it plain won't do it's job.

Don
 

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Im placing my bet on the radiator being plugged. Ive worked on a hundred different vehicles with this same kind of issue. People buy full strength coolant or the wrong coolant, and then think you can just add water from the garden hose. Calcium, sulfer, and iron in the water turns to sediment and makes its way into the corner of the radiator and builds up until there is no flow across 30% of the radiator. If you run it up to temp and then feel around the corner of the radiator where the petcock valve is at, I bet it is cooler than the rest of the radiator. Ive had them where they were flushed 2 or 3 times and never did unplug. Replacement was the only thing that cured the overheating.
 

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One other thing that goes wrong...over time...in car cooling systems.... is something called "silicate dropout".
I'm an old diesel tech and learned long ago not to use auto specific antifreeze in diesel engines because the high percentage of silica used in them will "dropout" quickly in a diesel engine. You can see silica dropout in the radiator sometimes by draining and looking at the tube openings in the tank. If you see a white, powdery looking substance accumulated around the tube that is mineral and silica dropping out of solution. That will clog the radiator tubes and tend to "plate out" on the hottest sections of the engine coolant passages. When that happens the radiator needs to be replaced as well as the engine thoroughly flushed to return reliable cooling. It's a guess, for sure, but I'm in the "needs a radiator" crowd on this one.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One other thing that goes wrong...over time...in car cooling systems.... is something called "silicate dropout".
I'm an old diesel tech and learned long ago not to use auto specific antifreeze in diesel engines because the high percentage of silica used in them will "dropout" quickly in a diesel engine. You can see silica dropout in the radiator sometimes by draining and looking at the tube openings in the tank. If you see a white, powdery looking substance accumulated around the tube that is mineral and silica dropping out of solution. That will clog the radiator tubes and tend to "plate out" on the hottest sections of the engine coolant passages. When that happens the radiator needs to be replaced as well as the engine thoroughly flushed to return reliable cooling. It's a guess, for sure, but I'm in the "needs a radiator" crowd on this one.
Good luck.
I replaced radiator today it was partially clogged but still gets hot at idle cools down when driving
 

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I replaced radiator today it was partially clogged but still gets hot at idle cools down when driving
That sounds like a fan issue.

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1968 Dodge Dart GTS, 340/727
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T "SRT Design"
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The fan clutch may be up for replacement. It's function is to fully engage the fan at lower speeds to move more air when underhood temps rise. If the fan is not speeding up as things warm up, the FC is bad. OEM is recommended. Aftermarket units are known to roar terribly, and not settle down quickly like OEM.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The fan clutch may be up for replacement. It's function is to fully engage the fan at lower speeds to move more air when underhood temps rise. If the fan is not speeding up as things warm up, the FC is bad. OEM is recommended. Aftermarket units are known to roar terribly, and not settle down quickly like OEM.

Don
Just aunt and looked at the fan it's got a pretty good wiggle.. You think it's the fan clutch or water pump?? I'm so lost and have already spent an absurd amount of money on this thing..
 

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Sometimes a "shotgun fix" (radiator, fan clutch, waterpump and thermostat ends up being the best course of action with aging cooling systems. One statistic every engine owner should keep in mind is:
Over 50% of ALL catastrophic engine failures begins with a faulty cooling system.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sometimes a "shotgun fix" (radiator, fan clutch, waterpump and thermostat ends up being the best course of action with aging cooling systems. One statistic every engine owner should keep in mind is:
Over 50% of ALL catastrophic engine failures begins with a faulty cooling system.

Good luck.
Yeah I've replaced a ton already.. As a father of four boys I'm at my financial limits.. I'm gonna hope I can get away with just fan clutch as I can see it wiggle.. I appreciate the input I will let you know the outcome.
 

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X 2 on the fan clutch. Remember, OEM will cost a bit more, but you will have no roaring issues. The wiggle is not supposed to be there.
Keep us posted.

Don
 
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