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Discussion Starter #1
my 2004 Durango SLT 4.7L 4x4 has been having intermittent starting problems.

1)At first, the engine would start, and then stall out, intermittently. I thought it was the air intake sensor on the custom air intake. Messed around and it would eventually start up normal again, finally replaced the intake air temp sensor.

2) the problem kept coming back and got more frequent.

3) 1 year old battery drained. trickle charged it overnight, and it was fine. Tested at auto zone and battery was at 100% capacity after charging it.

4) startup problems, lights all come on and fan, just engine won't start.

5) changed the alternator, changed the ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder assembly.

6) battery is now draining extremely fast, have to trickle charge it overnight.

7) trickle charging the battery overnight temporarily fixes the issue, but now it got worse, and it doesn't help at ALL, there is no ignition, even with a new battery. Lights come on and everything, but the ignition will not happen.

8) did amp check at the neutral battery terminal, with ignition off, and there is no parasitic voltage draw, unless my multimeter is bad, but I have tried 2 of them.

9). Checked all the small fuses in fuse kick panel and engine fuse boxes for being blow, and nothing. I cannot imagine what this is.

at this point, I have a lot of maintenance and engine parts into this vehicle and can't give up. I have new ignition coil packs, spark plugs, intake air temp sensor, new ignition switch, new ignition lock cylinder assembly, new battery, new alternator... checked fusible link to alternator, and there is continuity.
 

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"5) changed the alternator, changed the ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder assembly."

Well, it seems after that step things got a whole lot worse. Did you possibly get some bum parts? Did you buy OEM parts or the "AutoZone Specials" (and that goes for all the bits and bobs you've shotgunned out), because unfortunately we all end up paying the price for getting inferior parts. And did everything get installed properly?

And if you charge the battery and come out to find it dead the next morning, there is either a major problem with your battery or you do indeed have a large parasitic draw.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
"5) changed the alternator, changed the ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder assembly."

Well, it seems after that step things got a whole lot worse. Did you possibly get some bum parts? Did you buy OEM parts or the "AutoZone Specials" (and that goes for all the bits and bobs you've shotgunned out), because unfortunately we all end up paying the price for getting inferior parts. And did everything get installed properly?

And if you charge the battery and come out to find it dead the next morning, there is either a major problem with your battery or you do indeed have a large parasitic draw.
things were getting worse before those changes, I don't think it bad parts or installation. I will check again for parasitic draw. I still need to check the starter, and make sure there are no loose wires anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Forgot to mention that I had the 2004 leaky wiper cowl, it was leaking pretty bad, and I just finally put on the new one and sealed with new pins and seals. AT least no more water in the engine bay. I AM WORRIED THAT SOME WATER CORRDED OR EVEN FRIED SOME ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS. Next step is bringing to the dealer for diagnostics.
 

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Well, what do you mean by "ignition will not happen". Does it crank? Does it click? Does it prime the fuel pump? Anything?
 

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Carl:
I think you meant to say current draw. If the battery is going down that quickly, there has to be a measurable draw. Get an ammeter in series with the negative battery terminal, and you should see a draw. Then, you can disconnect things or remove fuses one at a time to see where the draw is coming from. We had an 05 Grand Caravan with similar issues, and the problem turned out to be that the Body Control Module was not going to sleep. $600 later, the problem was cured.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, what do you mean by "ignition will not happen". Does it crank? Does it click? Does it prime the fuel pump? Anything?
. no click or anything. The electrical chassis system comes on, all the lights and fan, etc. but no click at all.
 

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2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland V6
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Straight from the 2004 FSM

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STARTING SYSTEM
The battery, starting, and charging systems operate in conjunction with one another, and must be tested as a complete
system. For correct starting/charging system operation, all of the components involved in these 3 systems
must perform within specifications.
Starting System Diagnosis
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
STARTER FAILS TO
OPERATE.
1. Battery discharged or
faulty.
1. Refer to Battery. Charge or replace battery, if required.

2. Starting circuit wiring
faulty.
2. Refer to 8, Wiring Diagrams. Test and repair starter
feed and/or control circuits, if required.

3. Starter relay faulty. 3. Refer to Starter Relay in Diagnosis and Testing.
Replace starter relay if required.

4. Ignition switch faulty. 4. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder.
Replace ignition switch if required.

5. Clutch pedal position
switch faulty.
5. Refer to Clutch Pedal Position Switch.

6. Park/Neutral position
switch faulty or
misadjusted.
6. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch. Replace
park/neutral position switch if required.

7. Starter solenoid faulty. 7. Refer to Starter Motor. Replace starter motor assembly
if required.

8. Starter motor faulty. 8. If all other starting system components and circuits test
OK, replace starter motor.
 
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Items 3,4 & 6 should be investigated.

Have you checked the starter relay? Tried jumpering across the contact pins to see if the starter runs?
Your replacement Ignition switch could be defective?
Have you tried starting with the transmission in neutral instead of park?
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Items 3,4 & 6 should be investigated.

Have you checked the starter relay? Tried jumpering across the contact pins to see if the starter runs?
Your replacement Ignition switch could be defective?
Have you tried starting with the transmission in neutral instead of park?
Thanks for the tip. I am about to do this troubleshooting soon.
 

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Here's the wiring for the starting system. Check the two fuses associated with the starter relay.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's the wiring for the starting system. Check the two fuses associated with the starter relay.

wow, thanks so much. I am plumbing tech of 20 years, so I am extremely mechanical, but electrical troubleshooting is not my strong point! This really helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I read that the factory security system is built into the main computer and cannot be removed. Is it possible that in this 2004 Durango slt, that the security system is not letting me start the engine? If I can't figure it out today with the wiring diagram, I am having it towed to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
switched starter relays, with similar, no difference.
checked starter relay 85 and 86 terminals...no light, no voltage when ignition is turned. I disassembled and reassembled the new starter switch, and ignition lock cylinder. Everything looks fine.
I will try to track down and test those fuses DuRonbo
 

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Discussion Starter #15
took out the starter relay in 32, there is power across 30 and 87(32 starter relay) socket terminals. Fuse 1 (30Amp) starter fuse lights up (voltage bulb test) when my wife turns the ignition.


on the other hand, there is no voltage whatsoever to the 85 and 86 socket terminals (32 starter relay).... This is not good. At least I am getting somewhere.
so I am trying to understand by the wiring diagram what to look for next, since the starter relay is not getting power across the 86-85 starter relay switch. (when the starter switch is engaged., lights come on, starter fuse 1 comes on, starter relay 30-87 has power even when the key is not turned.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I already changed the starter switch to new and double checked it by uninstalling and reinstalling it totally. everything looked perfect. (I know it could be faulty, but it is highly unlikely) I think there is a dmaged wire somewhere, but I don't know where, and there is no visible wiring problems anywhere I have checked in the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
finally got a OBD2 code thrown; (U110E lost ambient temperature message). this code is manufacturer specific, I have to enter 2004, Dodge, Durango 4x4, 4.7 to get this code to come up. I have Never had to do that before.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
U110e Dodge Possible Causes
Faulty Body Control Module (BCM)
Body Control Module (BCM) harness is open or shorted
Body Control Module (BCM) circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I swear this has something to do with the leaky wiper cowl corroding the electrical system over years of time in the rain!
 

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Have you looked at the battery cable termination in the TIPM, and the harness connections under the TIPM? (Obviously want the battery disconnected first). I had issues with the harnesses that connect to the TIPM, which are under it. It's not that difficult to pop it out to inspect the bottom once the big battery cable is disconnected.
 
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