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2004 5.7 Crank No Start

7.4K views 46 replies 4 participants last post by  IGWright  
#1 ·
Gentlemen.

It's been a while,
and I hope everybody is well.

I drove my truck down to the gas station.
Set the pump to fill.
Went into the store.
Came back out.
Crank no start.

Tinkered a little at the gas station,
and eventually got it towed.

I have an Autel that I bought to bleed the brakes when I replaced the hoses and calipers.
And I did a code read, but nothing caught my eye.
However, a lot of the codes can't be read unless the engine is running.

I've looked around on YouTube and the possible reasons are numerous.

Jump in if you have any ideas.

Have a great night,

Ian
 
#2 ·
So the Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils are due to be replaced anyway.
So I'm gonna upgrade them to the E3s and the MSDs,
and new wiring.

Today I'm gonna look at the fuel pump.

So I expect that between all 3 of these approaches,
something will present itself.

Stay TUNED!
(see how I did that)
 
#7 ·
IGW:
That is your evap canister. As mentioned, I would change the plugs at some point, but not the coils. They are not a common fail point. Give the bottom of the fuel tank a couple of good smacks with your fist. The pump is pretty well centered in the tank. If it starts after that, you are in for a new FP. How many miles on your '04?

Don
 
#9 ·
Okay.
Here's what I bought:
(With the Wife's blessing :))


I did the thump on the gas tank trick that Don suggested.
But got nothing.

I'll do the Carb Cleaner approach,
once the product shows up,
and report back.

Ian
 
#10 ·
Ian:
Ok on the thump not changing anything. I'd recommend you not use those plugs, and go back in with the oem coppers. They are great plugs! Also oem for the fuel pump, if it's bad, is preferred over after market.

If you end up dropping the tank, you may find that the pump retainer ring is a rusted mess. When I was chasing a very persistent P0456, the issue turned out to be the rusted ring, which damaged the pump housing. The pump still worked fine, but the housing was cracked creating the very minor leak indicated by the p0456.

Don
 
#12 ·
Hey Don.

Appreciate it.
I'll try the plugs I ordered and see what happens.
Consider me to be the Beta Tester!
:cool:

I scoured for an OEM pump,
but couldn't find.
If you've got a link,
let me know.

I've seen some videos on YouTube,
and that rings gets pretty bad.
I'll wait and see what mine's like,
and go from there.

Onward and upward,

Ian
 
#14 ·
Okay.
So I got the Carb Cleaner today.

Berryman Products 0120 B-12 CHEMTOOL Carburetor, Choke & Throttle Body Cleaner, 20-Ounce aerosol (0120C) , RED

I took the Air Box Intake off.
My wife started the vehicle and put the peddle to the floor.
The valve opened and I spray the Carb Cleaner in.
But the engine didn't turn over.

What do you guys think?
:unsure:
 
#16 ·
IGW:
As you look further into this, It wouldn't hurt to verify that the harness connector for the FP is getting juice before you swap the pump. My money is still on the pump, btw.

Don
 
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#18 ·
Ian:
If you have not yet, read through my link on the fuel pump R and R when I was in search of the cure for my P0456.
it's a bit long, but I do go into dropping the tank, etc.


Don
 
#21 ·
As mentioned in my post, I ran it down to the point that the DTE screen read 0 miles. That was about 2.5 gallons left in there. Trust me, that tank will be a bear filled up. I'd try to empty it as much as possible before you begin.

Don
 
#22 ·
I've got 6 X 5 Gallon containers and pump.
I have the truck nice and lifted on 4 ramps.
Before I begin dropping the tank, I want to make sure voltage is getting right back to the tank.
I went underneath on my creeper and found a terminal at the front of the tank.
Is that the power for the pump?

Much appreciated, in advance.

Ian

PS I bought these to get 'er even higher:
 
#26 ·
Morning Ian:
Note the replaced by number , RL135549AC. I had heard that the oem pumps were scarce. The fact that the pricing is in red, and not green makes me think it might not be in stock.
This pricing, if available, is pretty good. I thought it was interesting they had a $40 core on the old pump. Mine was the same when I did it. You may want to have a new retention ring on hand. I think you can return it if not needed.

Don
 
#27 ·
Hey Don,

Thank-you for your wisdom and prompt replies.
It does say that it's manufactured by Mopar.
But you feel that it could be stamped Mopar and still not be OEM?

I'll pull the trigger and get the ring,
as you suggested.
I've got a little work to do until I'm ready to swap,
so the ship time shouldn't be a problem.

All right . . .
Onward and upward!

I(y)

PS I have seen a number of complaints about the 3rd Party Pumps.
And considering the amount of work involved in swapping them - not worth the price break.
 
#28 ·
Agreed on oem. If it's a faux oem pump, that would just be crazy. In some cases, aftermarket places will supply the oem part under their name. That would be fine in my view. Nothing magical about oem, but when it comes to certain pieces, I hope to do it one time, and be done with it.

Don
 
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