[wheredogsare]

UPDATE to last night's post with more information:

2002 Dodge Durango: Driver's side headlamp and driver's side brake light not working. I am not sure if they went out at the same time. Bulbs are good. I changed the headlight connector. Headlight still doesn't work.

Below are pics of interior and under the hood fuse boxes and their covers with legends. I do not see any fuses or relays that are for headlights. If you can enlighten me, please do. Thanks for your efforts. They're appreciated.

under hood fuse box legend

under hood fuse box

interior fuse box legend

interior fuse box

 

[Chase300]

The headlights are controlled by the CTM (Central Timer Module) so you'd check the fuses which are labeled CTMA and CTMB. The CTM is so you have auto-off feature. Its also possible to have a bad CTM.

 

[Chase300]

BTW, did you verify power to the connector?

 

[cerd]

Did you visually inspect the bulbs or did you test them with a meter and/or a power supply? Its not uncommon for bulbs to look new, but not work.

 

[wheredogsare]

The headlights are controlled by the CTM (Central Timer Module) so you'd check the fuses which are labeled CTMA and CTMB. The CTM is so you have auto-off feature. Its also possible to have a bad CTM.

Since only one headlight is out, does that mean that each headlight has its own relay?

 

[Chase300]

No relays for the headlights...that was eliminated in 2001.
CTM controls output...you need to check power to bulb at connector and then check the CTM....if CTM good then you have a wire issue somewhere between the CTM and the connector.

 

[Chase300]

Found this on testing CTM output for left headlight...drivers side from a post of a 2001 Durango which had a flickering low beam headlight issue.

"First, starting in 2001 the headlights have independent outputs from the CTM (Central Timer Module). So it is possible that the CTM has a bad left/low output. The CTM is located under the driver's side kick panel (the plastic cover west of the E-brake pedal).. Remove that cover (pull up the door sill to find one screw, and the other screw is under a tab of carpet at the firewall) and find the Purple/White wire at pin 4 of connector 3 (bottom) of the black box. CAREFULLY stick a straightened paper clip into the wire cavity of the connector - MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE IT IS GOING IN WITH THE PURPLE/WHITE WIRE OR YOU CAN DESTROY THE MODULE! MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE PAPER CLIP TO GROUND OR THERE WILL BE FIREWORKS AND YOU WILL DESTROY THE MODULE! - and connect your test light there with the headlights on. If the test light still flickers, replace the CTM."

 

[wheredogsare]

Found this on testing CTM output for left headlight...drivers side from a post of a 2001 Durango which had a flickering low beam headlight issue.

"First, starting in 2001 the headlights have independent outputs from the CTM (Central Timer Module). So it is possible that the CTM has a bad left/low output. The CTM is located under the driver's side kick panel (the plastic cover west of the E-brake pedal).. Remove that cover (pull up the door sill to find one screw, and the other screw is under a tab of carpet at the firewall) and find the Purple/White wire at pin 4 of connector 3 (bottom) of the black box. CAREFULLY stick a straightened paper clip into the wire cavity of the connector - MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE IT IS GOING IN WITH THE PURPLE/WHITE WIRE OR YOU CAN DESTROY THE MODULE! MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE PAPER CLIP TO GROUND OR THERE WILL BE FIREWORKS AND YOU WILL DESTROY THE MODULE! - and connect your test light there with the headlights on. If the test light still flickers, replace the CTM."

I'm not comfortable with this paper clip method. I'm still confused about some things. I am getting conflicting advice on different boards. I'm not a mechanic so please talk to me like I'm a child.

Ok, I think I'm correct in that nothing in the interior fuse box is the problem. Is that right?

Ive attached a photo of the under the hood fuse box. I drew a red outline around CTM A and CTM B. These are relays, correct? Somebody, possibly you, told me that CTM A is for both driver's side and passengers side headlights, and that CTM B controls their auto shutoff. Is all of this correct?

If the CTM A relay has gone bad, then how is my passenger side headlight working? I tried taking CTM A out and replacing it with a 20 amp relay that I know is good. This did nothing.

i can't recall if I told you about this or not, but I'll ask again either way. A couple nights ago, I found a post on some form or a guy was asking about his 2002 Dodge Durango, just like mine. He said that he's checked the bulbs and his check the headlight connector on his driver side headlight that is out, just like mine. He said the bulbs and the connector were fine. He also said that is driver side brake light was out. No one posted any suggestions on his question. I checked my driver side brake light after reading his post, and it is out. Could the driver side headlight not working and the driver side brake light not working B connected or related to each other in some way?

ok sir, I really do appreciate your continued efforts to help me figure this problem out. I apologize for any redundant questions I'm posting. As I said, I'm not a mechanic. I'm learning this as I go, and sometimes does the technical terms for things get me confused here.

I look forward to your reply, and possibly a potential solution to this annoying problem.

Mark

 

[cerd]

First thing I would do is clean that power lug. Its rusty and crusty as hell. If nothing else, that is a poor connection and may reduce voltage to that module.

2nd, If you are uncomfortable with the paperclip, then invest in a sharp pair of test leads. There are piercing test leads where you clamp them around a wire and tighten a screw to pierce the insulation. Its safer short term, but you are exposing the wire to slightly more weathering. That can be mostly remedied with some dielectric and vinyl tape. Alternatively, you can simply disconnect the battery while you are back probing any leads.

 

[cerd]

It also looks like the box is wet and was exposed to a harsh environment. I wouldn't be surprised if you have corroded terminals or wires in that box. At a minimum, take out every fuse and look for green or white powder. The 2 items that you highlighted are fuses, not relays. However, they are not sealed, so you could get some spare fuses from the junk yard, swap them with the same color with the clear cap off and use a Multimeter to measure each fuse to confirm that it is getting power across each one.