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2001 Durango R/T frame off restore

119K views 360 replies 24 participants last post by  repoman  
#1 · (Edited)
2001 Durango R/T frame on restore

Hello:
Noob to the group. I am about to complete a frame off restore of a 2001 Durango R/T "Black Beast".
. I purchased ( also known as got ripped off) this for $3500. Since the moment I hit the highway with it, I have been fixing problems with it. First I could not steer without 2.5" of play!. Yes that is right I could not begin to steer with out turning the wheel 2.5". If you know Durangos, then you know this was an easy fix. So the first thing done was replacing the intermediate shaft.

After completing the steering fix, I moved to the brakes. The kid I bought it from said "I think you need to put another disc clip" on. Well this is what I found:
Somehow the disc brake clips are on the calipers incorrectly, the rivet touching the hat on the rotor
, which subsequently caused the rivet to gouge a 3mm annular groove around the rotor hat. This increased pressured pulled down the brake pads so hard on the steering knuckles that his happened:
You can see in the circled part how the pads have grooved so deeply into the knuckles that the pad have dropped into and pulled through this gap. Now the pads are stuck at the top and float down to the center of the rotor. As each time the brakes are applied it effectively brakes less!. Notice on the rotor how the shiny part is at the bottom. The top is locked into those grooves on the steering knuckles. A couple of hot heat cycles in the city and these babies are ready to turn into exploding brakes. No thanks.
This is pretty much where my stomach starts turning. The whole underside of the car, dirt road queen.​
Surface rust from sand with that nice red rusty top coat from salt! My favorites:

First one is a ball joint ready to snap, notice the rusty colored salts on rock chipped paint. Every dirt road queen in Michigan has it. Second one bad hub, bad half shaft, tie .... just fix it all. Third one is a shot of the grooves in the steering knuckles. Fourth one tie rod that came off easy. completely different size from the other side.



I've got lots more to the story so far. I'll update this as I move along.
 
#85 ·
Brake lines ad Nauseum

I have to get the right side of the chassis wirebrushed and primed ready to be epoxied. Can't do that with all the rusty brake lines all over the place. Before I remove the rest of the lines I wanted to have a plan in place. So I have been sourcing hard lines for the Durango's with RWAL brakes ( all disc or disc/drum). Feel free to follow along.



I purchased an ebay kit for 4-wheel disc/ awal brakes. I knew it would not work, but I wanted them to have a kit that works for the RWAL folks. WHY? you ask? Lets go to the source. I did a chat data request with Chrysler/Jeep: I could only get date for 2003 Durango brakes:


2003 Dodge Durango. 5/13/16
2003 Dodge Durango 4X2 Information
Vehicles with BGJ 4 Wheel Disc, Rear Anti-Lock Brakes - 37,570.
Vehicles with BRT 4 Wheel Disc, Anti-Lock Brakes - 2,723.
2003 Dodge Durango 4X4 Information
Vehicles with BGJ 4 Wheel Disc, Rear Anti-Lock Brakes - 67,687.
Vehicles with BRT 4 Wheel Disc, Anti-Lock Brakes - 11,836.
Thats 105257 people compared to 14559. RWAL folks need a kit.

So I have been in contact with Jeremy at Finelines. They are going to work with me and have me penciled in around June 13th for work. I spent most the day using cardboard to fit the lower lines on to my cardboard frame. I put all the brackets, brassblocks and brackets in the radiator box I had. Neat right. I am still struggling with getting the upper lines to the proportioning valves and master to proportioning valves off with out wrecking them. We'll see. Here is a link to my personal website for some of my vehicles. I have a WAAAAy more extensively described set of pictures of the difference in the lines I received vs those that I need here.
Working 7 days, this is all the update I have time for now. Vacation in 9 days woot. I need two. Stay tuned> Is anyone reading this?:shock:


 
#86 ·
Breaking Bad Brakes

The past two weekends has been put into how to send all my brake parts to sstubes.com to have front hard lines made. There are two versions of lines one for the 2001 and 2003. I took a piece of wood and mounted the 2001 CAB controller directly to the board with the mounting screws
.

I then did the same with the 2003 controller
. Finally I added the mocked up lower left and right assembly with the brass blocks on cardboard
.
After all of this, I then proceeded to add each brake line that I purchased and put cardboard design notes on each one.

this series shows the 2001 CAB controller with its spaghetti monster of lines for the valve and proportioning valves ( I'm sure they have other proper names ). You can see the lines all the way down to where they connect to the top of the two brass blocks that are used in RWAL. ( 4x2 4x4). IN the 3rd and 4th  pix you can see the 2003 controller and lines. Much simpler. Last one is a top view. All of this was shipped out with 1000$ insurance. This is how much the controllers are worth together, not counting the lines. ( $640 and $464).Since my durango is a hodge podge of parts, I need to have both sets of lines. I want to get the truck running with the 2001 ECU and CAB controller, then when I swap bodies, move to 2003 everything, wiring harness, CAB and ECU. So I need both sets of lines. By doing all this prototyping work, I hope that the most common type of gen 1 D's will have brake lines kits available that work out of the box.
 
#87 ·
Collecting the front end components:

Collecting the front end components:
I have a guy at one of my jobs that built his own powdercoating oven out of oil drum, four heating elements and a dryer timer. I think I am going to have him powder coat the calipers (color?). Anyone know if I can find rebuilding parts? I haven't looked yet. I have already taken the rotors to O'Riley's to get turned on monday. Found one of the hubs totally blown on one steering knuckle. Common issue, going to have to replace em in pairs.



I was goofing around with an old broiler. What do you think, a Durango broiler trailer?
 
#89 ·
Donor chassis stripping. REPO'in da partz

Here are shots of the final chassis disassembly. Hard to believe I have now taken every system off of a vehicle. Almost to half way point. Axle(s) captured, brake calipers and upper a-arms. I have never taken or messed with the torsion bars/keys etc. yet. Please pass on any advice. I would like the lower a-arms and everything I can save.





This set of 3 pix of for the person asking about removing the axle from the engine. I could not find the thread in my limited time to post. There are the 3 mounting locations on a front axle. All 98-2003 typical. To note is one of the bolts goes through the mount for the starter IIRC.
 
#102 ·
UPPER A-arms reburb

Officially I have used one knotted wire brush to clear from firewall to front bumper.

A-arms prepped. I purchased Duralast upper ball joints from Autozone, and they did not have any zerk fittings. Took those back. #1 Durango design flaw. No greasable ball joint fittings. What were you thinking Dodge?
Two coats of primer. Zinc cold galvanizing compound on roll bar. For color and corrosion resistance.
 
#103 ·
Lower A-arms, ball joints and Steering gear redo


Steering gear coming out looking nice. Clear coated, painted, tie rod ends on, Still need to refurb the two hoses. I ended up killing the lines from the 2003, which were seemingly in better condition, however they kinked and wrecked immediately. Go back to the 2001 and a slight tap with a hammer and 18mm wrench and the lines came right off.



Lower arms, ball joints, torsion bar, key all installed and back to base height adjustment from the height the 2001 was Pro tipI counted the threads above the key holder to top of bolt. Much easier then counting the # of revolutions used to remove the key bolts at end of torsion bar ( approx 22 turns, yet it was 16 threads showing on the top).
 

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