Last night spent half a day doing the other side of frame, some of the detail work with no access, then just covered everything with two coats of converter. I even had just enough to do around the radiator supports and in the A-arm divots on the frame. the worst place for rust on Durango frames. Today I am waiting for LINE-X of Lansing | LineX to open to see if they can do the chassis. That means I have to move the body off trailer to put chassis on it, or have it flatbed towed over there. . We'll see how expensive this is gonna be. I also don't know if I need to top coat the etched surface with primer ( Rustoleum Automotive Rusty Metal Primer Product Page). I might try bedliner on the frame myself. save $$

 

Post some pictures when you are done with the frame, I'm really getting hooked with your thread.

 

Like waiting for paint to dry.

2 coats of rust inhibiting primer in the books. waiting for that to dry for top coat.

 

1st coat of rustoleum tractor paint

View attachment 68585 View attachment 68593 View attachment 68601 View attachment 68609

 

I have been following this thread since I joined. I have always really liked the gen 1 Durangos since they first came out when I was a little 6 year old kid, and was in love with the gen 2 Daks.

I know a lot of dudes just consider them to be an also ran but with the styling, BOF construction, and 318/360 options they were just great trucks. The gen 2 styling never did it for me and as much as I like my gen 3 its a unibody and doesn't have an indestructible LA powertrain. Its my 2nd favorite and we will see how long this Pentastar 220 runs, but I really think the gen I Durango is underrated.

 

That frame is looking great, too bad you will have to cover it up the body lol . Though, with all of the time you are putting into the frame to make it right I'm thinking the body is going to be just as impressive.

 

So THAT'S what a naked Durango looks like!:clap:

 

2nd coat on from in the books

added a layer of clear on this section because i had a small amount. If it don't shine, it ain't mine. lol

 

Since you have easy access to everything have you considered going dual exhaust? The original 2003 Durango I bought for my oldest daughter back in 2009 had after market true dual exhaust installed by the previous owner. They looked great and it had a nice deep rumble from the 5.9.

 

How does that work with that HUGE gas tank in the way of a second pipe. I have to replace the muffler. Its shot.

 

on the plate for today

 

View attachment 69273 on the plate for today

But the question is, did you complete your list???

 

That's quite a bit for one day. Hopefully it isn't in the 90's today like it is here.

 

Brakes review

code BGJ brake distribution blocks for RWAL brakes. Used for both disc/drum and disc/disc. NOT used for 4 wheel antilock brakes. That has four lines instead of 3.

BRR CODE 2003 CAB brake controller for RWAL disc/disc.

new Stainless steel lines from SStubes.com Then some shots of the BGJ controller from the 2001 and the proportioning valve. I have removed the front lines, rear lines, master cylinder from the frame and the vacuum booster. In preparation to complete the CAB controller swap and full line replacement to the back.

 

Durango body mount located

Finally found a working body mount that doesn't cost $85. I have been searching for more than a year for a good body mount. I can find all the parts via Mopar warehouses, however the total for one with all just the top and bottom isloators and the bolt, reusing your metal shells was like $80+ plus shipping. I found this part on cheapest on partsgeek.com. This site had the mount almost $20 cheaper at $33 then any other brand name parts store. Working in the internet industry, I now realize that EVERY parts catalog that copied down the Dorman description they provided is wrong. They list the mount as only for the "front" ie. as in the radiotor support mounts. But even those are the same as these. The biggest problem was the oval shape that locks the isloator into the frame mount as you can see in the picture of both the old ones and the new ones. Compare that to the hole in the frame.
And companines like Prothane and Energysuspensions make nothing for the 1st gen durangos. I checked all the Dakota stuff on their sites too. I sent emails to both companies R&D shops to see if I could get them to make me a custom set.. NOPE we don't do custom work. Prothane has a liquid urethane kit with 60ish durometer iirc. I looked at all their catalogs and their universal stuff . Nothing will work. Now there are some Ford f250-350 with the extended cabs that use the same isolators with the oval locks, but I was not able to confirm that it would work for me, nor could I figure it out via the horrible webpages out there. AND you can never just order one sample of something. They are divided into kits. So frustrating I gave up after 10's of hours searching for infos.
I have some geek friends with 3'd printers... They think they can print urethane. :] stay tuned on that one. Looking at one of the shells, they are practically already a mould.

 

Body mount holes. UGH..

making progress. about 15 more threads left. I got tired. I had a 4 foot bar on the end of it. Heat, Kano kroil, brute force.

bolt won. I will have to cut an access hole in floor of cabin of truck in the WORST possible place. IN order to cut out bad bolt and fashion a backing plate and nut . then weld it all back up. Another delay.

front body mount area. The charcoal canister bracket all repainted.

Body mount bolts are m12x1.75 x92.5MM Tap accordingly. using tap oil. Since locktite red was used you need heat to get the bolts out, and you must cut the old crap out with a tap before you put new bolts in.

 

Body mount progress and more broke-zor stuff.

with lots of heat I was able to move this bolt out, slowly 1/4 turn at a time. heat, turn , heat turn. When single use HF tools won't do the trick:

GET Kobalt!

Here we can see that the body bolt is sheared off on the side of the D3 donor body. I know this area is subject to heavy rusting and corrosion. Since that has already started in this area, I am not taking any chances. So I purchased a set of new front body mount metal.

https://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=D-278-P

so I went out and found a spot weld cutter. Today will be removing the mounts. I am still looking for one for the rear mount under the 2nd row seat. That one broke off too. The nut is very loose. Better to replace that new. I have a HS buddy that was a welder for 40 years. He just retired. So I am hiring him to come out and get these welded up. He is a welding master, and I am a welding puddle...master.. lol

You can also see the new tank straps came in. Now I can start assembling again. Woot. I also received by rear center brake hose.

 

body mount removal. Prep for new mounts in front

 

Front body mount supports removed.

front body mounts off. Lots of welding holes behind it.

 

Wow, that is some pile of rustiness.

 

Great job keep it up bud!

 

Wow... I'm really glad my 2003 Durango has never left the state of Texas. Pretty much rust free.

 

Anyone know what size the brake lines in the back happen to be? what size ends? I am assuming they are all metric ( the ends ) as mine are 12mm wrench sized.

Cheapest I can find rear lines pre-made are 78-101$ each side so x2, plus shipping. Cheaper to make them. Who's done this job. Looking for info thanks.

 

so I got the body mounts from autobodyspecialties.com for the durango. Looks like real nice work. however They don't have the part that I need as shown in the last two pictures. Plus I may get the sills as well ( the part with the hole in it) Man this is going to be a $40k truck... There happens to be a left and right KIT for this still available from the dealer which includes the capture nut, stiffener, and body mount. And I went to my local parts guy< ( who can get everthing $40-50 higher than anyone else out there) . He said that his kit will already be spot welded and ready to be installed. So tomorrow I am going to order these. I think I found them for under $100 each. These were $199 plus shipping.

.. If someone want to buy em let me know before i ship em back and take the loss. ( stocking plus another shipping charge)

 

Man this is going to be a $40k truck...

It may be a $40k rebuild but once done it will make all the new generation Durango's out there look like 120 pound weaklings !!!!!!

 

New member here and just read the complete thread. Great work and great thread, great pictures. I plan to use a Durango frame and engine as the base for a 1946 dodge pickup street rod as wheel base is same and I like to keep Dodge in a Dodge. Your thread and pictures are most helpful! Thank You!

 

Gas tank straps install

Here I cleaned up the tank, replaced the straps and installed. Pictures included of original straps with shipping straps. I think these were used to hold the straps on while installing on the line. Picture of connector to fuel pump and the top of the pump.

Gas tank straps and lines = ​installed!

 

Rear wiring harness. Hiding the hitch wires

Grabbed all the left over wire looms I had around.

measured out the two wired to the trailer hitch. wrapped em with electrical tape.

started at the interconnect. Used a brake adjusting tool to open loom and slide wires in. I care fully cut the old tape. I either used self sticking tape and some light heat, or electrical tape in all the exact same location as they were on the original harness. I also looked for ever to 1/4" fir tree push zip tie mounts. I used these in place of them that could not be used. However see next set of pix on reusing them:

First is a shot of a typical OEM fir tree zip tie holder. Their style comes with a molded zip tie. These all have been cut more or less flush. Insert 1/4" or smaller screwdriver. Prise up on zip lock, pull small piece out.

Assembling rear at brake hoses.