HI Krispy:
Welcome to DDN. How many miles on your D? You might have a fuel pump on the way out. When you replaced the cam/crank sensors, did you use oem, or aftermarket? Dodge products can be picky about aftermarket vs oem. Have you done the key dance yet to check for any stored trouble codes?

Don

 

It has a little over 246k miles on it. I used oem for the sensors because my local shop said the same thing about dodge being picky. When I do the key dance it just says p done, so I don't have any stored codes.

 

Sounds like a fuel issue. I’d start with checking pressure.

 

Ok on the pdone. At 246K, could be a number of things. Good on you for sticking with oem on the sensors! As CC says, monitoring/verifying fuel pressure would be on my short list.

Don

 

After having it sit all day I went to see if it would start and it didn't, I did the key dance again and it pulled p-0340 which i think pertains to the camshaft/camshaft sensor, I already had and extra sensor from when I got them before (I always buy a few extra parts just in-case car funds are low) and it still is pulling the same code. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge available to me at this moment but I was gonna see if spraying starting fluid in the throttle body would help it start so I can run my obd2 scanner on it. I'm going off what my dad taught me like 20 years ago and google because I'm trying to learn how to do it all myself. Thanks for all the inputs on the issue at hand.

 

Krispy:
I can't recall if there is a shrader valve on the 4.7L fuel rail. If there is, take the cap off, and momentarily depress the center pin. Be careful, because if the system is pressurized as it should be, fuel will spray out. If no fuel comes out, you know you have a fuel delivery issue. Then, try giving the tank a good thump with your hand near the middle while lying down under the D. Sometimes, the thump will allow the pump to run again for a bit.

Don

 

Yes there is a shrader valve, I have already located it when i was taking the parts out to get to the throttle body. Does the D need to be in the on position or can it stay off?

 

If all is well, pressure should remain for an indefinite time after you shut it off. If you depress the valve, and get nothing, you have a clue. Don't let it get into your eyes. Give it a go, and report back.

Don

 

Fuel sprayed out instantly so all is well there.

 

Good on the fuel pressure. You need fuel, compression, and spark to run. When it turns over, does it sound like it has compression? If so, then spark is the only piece left. Maybe recheck the harness connections on the cam/crank sensors to be sure they are fully seated. The plugs are relatively new correct?

Don

 

Plugs as in sensors or the wire connecters to the sensors? The sensors are new but not the wire connecters , I was finally able to get it to start after tightening the sensors down a lot by hand but after shutting it off it didn't want to start again. I'm not sure what I should listen for to see if it has compression but I'm guess it does because I got it to start. It idles fine and doesn't run rough at all and has not lose of power or acceleration. The p-0340 code went away and now it just says p done again. I'm at complete loss on what to do next, just want to avoid the shop but it might be my only choice since I'm a greenhorn at this stuff.

 

Plugs, as in spark plugs . The change interval for the oem Champion Coppers, is 30k. If you are significantly over that on the current set, they need to be replaced before you go any further. If it started, then you have compression. It might help to use some contact cleaner on the harness connectors where they plug into the sensors. Keep an eye out for any apparent wiring damage as you work through this. Darned critters love to done on the insulation for our harnesses, especially in the country.

Don

 

I'm not sure when the plugs were changed last but I will do that and see if it helps. I haven't changed them since I've bought it a few months ago but I didn't drive it around a lot since my work is only 1.5 miles from my house and the store is by my work. I will report back once I've changed the plugs.

 

Maybe pull one from each bank, and check the gaps. IIRC, the correct oem plug will be RC12MCC4 or close to it. The gap new is .040 or thereabouts. If yours are crazy wide, replace 'em. The oem Champion Coppers are a good plug, and inexpensive.

When you remove the bolt or nut, can't recall, (10mm I think) for the coil packs, gently twist and lift to bring them straight up. The heads are aluminum as you know, so once the plug bottoms out, just snug it. No need to go beyond that. If you have some, you could put a tiny bit of no seize on the threads. A little goes a LONG way.

Don

 

I just replaced all the plugs and that helped it start. I shut it off and then it started again, but when I put the tire back on from doing the crankshaft sensor it didn't want to start up again. All the old plugs were bad and had a giant gap, way bigger than the .040 gap it should be. It is still pulling the p-0340 code from the key dance.

 

Isn’t that a cam shaft sensor code? Not crank

 

Yes it is a cam shaft code but if I'm replacing one I just do both since its and easy job, plus i didn't have any codes to go off of in the beginning so I was checking all the work I did on it before this issue started. Update, I got the truck started 4 times and it made it down to the store and back with no issue or codes popping up. I tightened the cam sensor really tight and the code went away and it runs a lot better than before. It even started up after I got home and shut it off so I think I got it all fixed. Don, I would like to say thank you for all the input and advice you have given me these past few days it means a lot to my whole family having the D running again. Happy 4th!

 

Krispy:
That is excellent news! Kudos to you for persevering, and being the hands/eyes for us. It sounds like you had a combination of worn out plugs, and a flaky sensor or harness connection. I would put some more miles on her before you declare it fixed, but it sounds like you may have won the battle. There are a number of very helpful/friendly folks here, and I am proud to be among them.
If you plan to hang onto that D, consider going through all of the fluids and such as you have the time/funds. Trans, T case, coolant, front/rear differentials, etc.

Happy 4th of July to you as yours as well. I hope you'll hang around. Don't be a stranger.

Don

 

I love this truck and I plan on keeping her on the road for years to come, I know at 246k miles it will have more issues but the fact I was able to do this with the help of you guys makes it that much better. I'm gonna take it for a long drive tomorrow while my wife is off work to see if anything happens, that way I wont be stranded for hours and have to miss work.