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Discussion Starter #1
Good evening!
For some time now (1+ hours) I was lost in the forums and got a few nice ideas about my Durango.

BUT, to get to the point.
My transmission was out of order and I had my D parked for a few years. With much care and work i got the engine running nice and smooth and had the car taken to get the tranny rebuilt.
Got that done and my baby runs amazing! Love it.

I decided to crawl under it to check bushing when I noticed this (Picture)
THAT is concerning me. It seems dangerous. A rock, dust, dirt, mud can get in there. There are also holes for bolts it seems. It feels like something is missing here.
Can someone confirm that something should be there or easy my mind and tell me all is as designed?
Please?
Plus there is some fluid there as well...

Thank you for your help.

109196
 

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Andreas:
Congrats on getting your D back on the road. It looks like the folks who did the trans work have left the inspection cover off. If your fluid level is not dropping, that fluid could be left over from the rebuild. I would get it back to them and have them check for leaks while they install the cover that should be there.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Copy. Thank you very much for the response.
I am supposed to take it back at 200 miles for them to check for leaks, BUT it will get back asap for the cover.
I am also glad to know the name for teh missing part now. Makes it easier.

thing is in too good of a shape to give up on it. Thanks again for the response and advise!!
 

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Item 8 in this drawing
109202
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sweet. So, I just got off the phone with the mechanic. he told me he had to cut it when he removed the transmission. He also said he did not install a new cover as he would have to lift the engine up to get it installed. He will order the part and cut it so he can install it and at least cover the visible part.
4 bolts hold it in place? Is it true that this is hard to install?
 

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That does not sound right to me. It's been a long time since I have had one off. My understanding is that the cover is there to allow access to the converter/flex plate bolts when one is in the process of dropping the trans. The converter has to move back away from the crank snout before the trans will come down. I would think one would want to avoid pressure on the front pump which could occur when lowering it with the converter still seated into the crank.

Don
 

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The mechanic doesn't know what he's doing, or he's taking shortcuts. If you do things in the right order you don't have to cut anything.

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Hoist and support vehicle.
(3) Remove skid plate, if equipped.
(4) Remove skid plate support crossmember, if equipped.
(5) Disconnect and lower or remove necessary exhaust components.
(6) Remove starter motor.
(7) Support engine with suitable support stand and wood block.
(8) Remove bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to transmission.
(9) Remove bolt and nut attaching each engine-totransmission bracket to the motor mounts.
(10) Remove bolts holding the engine-to-transmission brackets to the front axle, if equipped.
(11) Loosen bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
(12) Raise engine slightly.
(13) Remove torque converter access cover.
(14) Tighten bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The mechanic doesn't know what he's doing, or he's taking shortcuts. If you do things in the right order you don't have to cut anything.
Thanks. I had a talk and the new cover is on its way. he will install once he gets it.
Appreciate all the quick responses here. Nice!
 

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The oil could be from the rear main seal on the engine, which would have nothing to do with the rebuild. It's always nice when someone has something apart and at least tells you about a leak they found, but that doesn't always happen. If you did replace that rear main seal some day, don't forget to do the freeze plugs back there. Dodge used steel plugs and the core sand from the engine block casting process settles down at the bottom of the block against the steel plugs and rusts them out. The rust inhibitors in your coolant would normally protect the steel (assuming you change the coolant every 3 years), but due to the piled up core sand, the rust inhibitors can't get to the steel plugs. If the plugs leak at the back of the engine, you won't necssarily get a visible leak, but instead get a transmission cross member full of green goo.
 
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