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Don, could you please elaborate on why it should be necessary to remove the heads?

I have a Hemi, albeit a Citroen, with pushrods, and I wouldn't have to remove my Head, 4 Cyl, in order to work on the Valvetrain.

I have never worked on a V8, and not planning to, so I'm asking out of interest only.

Thanks

Preben
 

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I listened to your video R/T Durango, and my vote is a cracked/broken exhaust stud. Very common especially at your mileage. Covered 100% under powertrain warranty, if that’s what it is. I also vote that you take it to another dealer if you are dissatisfied with your recent dealer. Did they double-triple check that it is NOT the manifold bolts/studs?? I mean..it goes away after warmed up, and the sound is there, it fits the bill!

One of mine that went, it also held on the heat shield, so I could slip my hand down the side and move the shield around!
 

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The small block engines we all remember as younger folk, ie the Chevy 305/307/350 and Ford 302/351 were made such that when the intake manfold is removed, you can access the lifter valley. This is not so for the newer Hemi blocks. The intake sits on top of the heads over a fully covered area which is not removable. When the intake comes off, you can see the MDS solenoids on the engines that have them, but there is no access to the internals of the engine.

Don

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For all those saying it is the broken exhaust stud, if the lifters were replaced that would have been discovered when the heads came off.
 
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If they indeed did replace the lifters!?
 
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Discussion Starter #46
UPDATE MAY 16 2020. UNBELIEVABLE!

So from our last discussion I was going to the 2nd dealership to have the lifters changed ..again.
So you guys listen to this because it blows my mind!
Got the vehicle to 2nd dealership and they had opened it up, called a Dodge rep to take pictures & send in to re-repair the knock. Because nobody denies the knock. It's there!
So Dodge approved the re-repair. This time they're changing both set of lifters, left and right side and the camshaft. They did the repair, I picked up the vehicle and it was STILL ticking! But now the ticking noise does not go away at all!
So I showed them right then and there that it was still making the noise and they said they have to open it again!
I brought it back the following week and they changed the left side of the lifters again. They called me saying that the vehicle STILL makes the ticking noise, a little less then before they said and that's all they are able to do on it since they replaced twice the left side lifters, once the right side and the camshaft!
So to recap: The Clunky Junk went through these repairs for the infamous " Hemi Tick " :
1st dealership: replaced the left side of the lifters, gaskets and everything
2nd dealership: replaced camshaft and both sets of lifters. Right side and the left side.
2nd dealership: replaced left side of lifters - Again!
The Clunky Junk went through: 3 SETS of left side lifters 1 SET of right side lifters and a camshaft!!!
And....it still clunks away, now having the clunk at ALL times!! Although a lot noisier when it's cold and just a little less noisier when it's hot. But it still does it!
So I went back to 1st dealership and they said..again that it's the lifters that makes the noise. I told them the story with 2nd dealership and now they're thinking how to go about about it after so many repairs. But so far nobody denies that the noise it's there - Unbelievable!
I've looked through some forums but I NEVER came across something like this!
It baffles not only my mind but theirs too!
So the Mysterious case of the Clunky Junk continues!
 

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After all this they should just replace the entire engine with a new crate engine.
 

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It sucks that you have to deal with this, total time-suck and invasive work. Not sure I find anything about unbelievable about the story. There are plenty of good techs in most dealers, but they are trained parts replacers. It's rare to find one able to diagnose the odd stuff that doesn't have a P code associated with it. These are machines made by humans so there will always be a failure rate. You just hit the unlucky lottery on this one. Everyone recognizes there is an issue, and you stated they are working on a resolution, so hang in there.
 

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Maybe the Durango guys aren't affected by it but on my ram 1500 with the 5.7L it had a knocking noise that went away when warm from broken exhaust manifold bolts. All the 1500s have that problem to my knowledge. It's an aluminum block with cast iron manifolds so they cool at different rates and pull the bolts, breaking the heads off. I'd bet that's probably what you're hearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
So the dealerships are saying the bottom end is OK? Have you put a stethoscope on the engine and try and pinpoint if its from the heads or bottom rotating assembly?
I think they should upgrade you to a 6.4L at this point.
Hello Chase300! I'm a Chef and have no idea how to even change the oil & filter, that's why I have warranty on the vehicle. Something goes wrong , I'll take vehicle to the brand's dealership so their certified techs fix the car.
I do not race the car. I do not abuse the car. I use 91 octane, per their recommendation and my idea so the engine would have less "stress" to deal with in case of bad gas.
I do change the oil & filter every 3000 miles, even though their sticker says at 5000, at the same reputable Dodge dealership. They use their parts. I don't want to go to anybody's shop but Dodge's certified dealerships.
But the noise it's there: I hear it. They hear it and they diagnosed it as lifter malfunction. My clients, normal people not mechanics, are hearing it and some of them are mentioning that "your engine is making some weird noise".
Bottom line is that the noise is there and even though is very common, according to what Dodge techs said, apparently mine cannot be fixed!!
 

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Maybe the Durango guys aren't affected by it but on my ram 1500 with the 5.7L it had a knocking noise that went away when warm from broken exhaust manifold bolts. All the 1500s have that problem to my knowledge. It's an aluminum block with cast iron manifolds so they cool at different rates and pull the bolts, breaking the heads off. I'd bet that's probably what you're hearing.

Also happens on the 4.7L. My 2004 SLT had broken exhaust studs on one side. Got a nasty sounding ticking until the parts warmed up then it sealed the leak and quieted down. There are stud kits and even exhaust manifolds along with gaskets available aftermarket. No need to pay the inflated dealer prices for these common failure parts.
 

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R/T
Your update is much appreciated, albeit frustrating. While it seems the dealers are trying to make things right, I believe the time has come for them to stop this bit piece nonsense, and replace the engine. For what these vehicles cost, you have the right to know that the engine is as it should be. In this case, something strange is going on. SteveMLS makes a good point, that at this rate, they will eventually spend enough money throwing parts in, to have just bit the bullet and replaced the engine. In the mean time, customer frustration is high, and confidence suffers.
I hope they have R/T in a nice loaner while all this has gone on.

I imagine a new engine would likely run $8-$10K installed if you were paying for it.
An online search found:

Mopar camshaft # 53022372AA ('11-'19) $232.00

Non MDS lifters # 05038787AD @ $48 each

MDS lifters # 05038788AD @ $98 each

As we know the heads must come off every time the lifters are accessed (assuming you are replacing one or more on both sides).

I guess they could still be ahead on the money, but I wouldn't be happy about having the heads on and off again like a light switch. I would think someone up the food chain would want this engine back to do an autopsy on, and find out where the problem is!

Don
 
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Discussion Starter #55
Guys, thank you for trying to help. Your suggestions were heard by the service advisors and techs that worked on the car, as I mentioned to them that I chat with people on DodgeDurango.net forum, so they heard all your suggestions.
I like my vehicle very much, it's dependable, so far the any other trouble with it was the BCM which went kaput one day and the engine mounts.
Aside from these issues, which are not out of the ordinary, the vehicle is robust, awesome for road trips, very planted on the road, quiet cabin, well insulated from road noise so I hate to let it go...and I was happy and looking forward to have it passed well over 150000 miles like a lot of people, but I also have to tell you that it's very disheartening having it tick like that.
But, as I told the service advisors and techs I worked with, I don't want to give up on the brand because some parts are bad and need to be fixed even if it takes'em few times to get it done.
So we'll see what options are going to be presented to go about and fix it.
 

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Guys, thank you for trying to help. Your suggestions were heard by the service advisors and techs that worked on the car, as I mentioned to them that I chat with people on DodgeDurango.net forum, so they heard all your suggestions.
I like my vehicle very much, it's dependable, so far the any other trouble with it was the BCM which went kaput one day and the engine mounts.
Aside from these issues, which are not out of the ordinary, the vehicle is robust, awesome for road trips, very planted on the road, quiet cabin, well insulated from road noise so I hate to let it go...and I was happy and looking forward to have it passed well over 150000 miles like a lot of people, but I also have to tell you that it's very disheartening having it tick like that.
But, as I told the service advisors and techs I worked with, I don't want to give up on the brand because some parts are bad and need to be fixed even if it takes'em few times to get it done.
So we'll see what options are going to be presented to go about and fix it.
Collapsed piston skirt.
 

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I’m fairly new here and people here have been good. I respect all the guys here, they come and try to offer honest advice, I appreciate this board and the people who keep it up. Anyway, we purchased a lightly used 2,899 K miles, which used to be dealer demo. Our truck started rattling around 8,000 K mile mark and long story short. It took 4-5 dealer visit (all different dealers) to finally get rocker arms and lifters replaced. It seems the rattling has gone away, heard it other day but it not as bad as it was. The service advisor did say that rocker arms/lifters can potentially shave off metal parts that go into engine and damage it, not trying to scare OP. But can anyone elaborate on that statement because I’m in the same situation.
 

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I work in an engine repair shop.
I've been in this line of work for 50+ yrs.
We do a lot of stock regular 5.7L engines, but mostly super high perf. 3rd gen Hemi work is done here, and I can say that these engines, in any form throughout the range from mild to wild power potential, do not survive well running old dirty oil - especially susceptible are the lifters and related valve actuating moving parts.

A few hours ago I wrote a very long response detailing every aspect of this issue, then, pressing “Post reply” ,,, the whole message got dumped, in frustration, I wrote the short reply “collapsed piston skirt”

Despite the sketchiness of trying to diagnose an engine component failure mode by listening to a phone recorded blurb on my tiny phone, and without me being there with my engine stethoscope, I guardedly guess that this noise is likely a single cylinder collapsed piston skirt slapping against the cylinder wall.
I have heard this noise many times before, it MAY also be a sloppy wrist pin, or a connecting rod big-end bearing going away, or some other thing, but it’s still a reasonable guess that should be investigated.
In the late 70s, and all through the 80s, GM’s 454 truck engines exhibited varying degrees of this noise until the pistons got up to operating temperature, and sometimes the noise was never completely gone. 3rd gen Hemis shouldn’t make these piston noises, and that tells me the engine will probably either need to be rebuilt top to bottom, replaced, or simply endured by the owner until an eventual total engine failure.

I recommend finding the best high performance engine machine shop you can find in your area, bring the vehicle there and let an intelligent, experienced engine expert listen in order to make a more educated evaluation. His opinion might carry more weight when returning to the dealer.
 

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Might want to push for a new short block...or better, long block as the upper end has been addressed and it has not solved the issue...they must now look at the bottom end as M-D-Z also has pointed out.
 
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