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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my howling noise is back after 3 years and 2 months. I paid up and bought hub assemblies from MOOG and of course they had a 3 year warranty that I've just past. The hubs were installed when the vehicle had 132,000km and now it has 164,000 which is only 32,000km. It is howling like before but I'm not sure what side or both. I had replaced the left hub in 2016 with a cheap hub (not sure brand) so in 2019 when the noise started again I couldn't figure out which side the noise was coming from so I guessed the right side. I was wrong so had to replace the left as well. Anyone have a similar experience? Any tips getting them off as I remember it was a battle? What brand would you recommend?
 

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It's been the left side each time so it probably is again. It sounds like something is causing this to fail over and over.
 

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If you occasionally submerge your hubs or drive what they call "extreme service" it could be that you aren't repacking your wheel bearings often enough. If that's not it then maybe your spindle is bad/out of round on that side. Just guessing here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Tin Foil Hat. I think the hub is one unit with the bearings and not serviceable. No submerging for this vehicle but it does sit a lot. I guess it could be the spindle but it bolts to the axle so not sure that would wear the bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've been looking around for hub assemblies and it seems that there aren't any specific listings for AWD. I called the dealer and they gave me pn 52014494ai price is $524.72 which I can't cross reference anywhere. I asked them to look up an 06 Durango 5.7 and it is the same part for all of them so I'm assuming I can just get a 4wd bearing like I did in the past. Weird I can't cross reference. The price is triple for the dealer so I don't think that is an option. Am I missing something? Any thoughts?
 

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Rockauto has 1 closeout Mopar Hub left for $330. I would jump on it if you want OEM. The front hub is the same for RWD or AWD.

Moog used to be the best, but their quality has dropped. I have used Mevotech and Raybestos many times with good luck. I will also use Timken if available. I just stay away from the super generic parts and I usually grab the part that offers a free lifetime warranty. Raybestos is the only one from Rockauto with a lifetime warranty and it costs $156.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info. I used to order a lot from Rock Auto but the shipping to Canada makes it too expensive. I ordered the Mevotech online at partsavatar and hopefully I change the right one this time. I'm guessing left since I've changed it twice.
 

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I find it strange, that the front hubs would be the same for RWD and AWD. For RWD, there is no front half shaft, so no bolt to tighten down. I was not aware you could run an AWD hub with no shaft and bolt. Everything I have read, says it won't work, ie, when folks have a front axle issue, and want to pull the shafts and run without them.

Don
 

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I find it strange, that the front hubs would be the same for RWD and AWD. For RWD, there is no front half shaft, so no bolt to tighten down. I was not aware you could run an AWD hub with no shaft and bolt. Everything I have read, says it won't work, ie, when folks have a front axle issue, and want to pull the shafts and run without them.

Don
That's what I thought, but no auto supply seems to carry one just for RWD.

I think he meant 4wd.
I thought my Jeep and DD were considered AWD since they do not function in 2wd mode. I was pretty sure quadradrive was considered AWD.
 

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I installed a pair of Moog hub bearings in my '07 Silverado in '15 when the OE's failed at 60k miles. The Moogs lasted 20k miles! I've already got much more than that on the SKF X-Tracker replacements. Not sure if it's due to the fact that the truck sits a lot, or not. I had a customer that had a 20k mile hub bearing failure of another brand, and their vehicle also sits a lot. Not sure if usage is a factor in these failures or not. Seems like these replacements don't last very long when they sit parked more than they're driven.

Could be crappy seals that rapidly age and shrink, or could be the lack of grease (Or both) - they're pretty stingy with the stuff whether it's an accessory pulley with a 6203 double-sealed roller bearing in it, or a hub bearing assembly for a little econobox car, or full-sized pickup. Any part of a roller bearing that doesn't have grease directly upon it will flash rust when parked. I believe this is what's taking them out.
 

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I use an air hammer - quickest easiest way to get them out, especially if you live where things rust from road salt. Another method is to leave your socket on the bolts behind the steering knuckle, make sure there's enough threads into the hub bearing, and pound on those from the back alternating between the 4. Have to be careful that you're not damaging the bolts, however. Pounding on the flange on the outside, working around in a circle works, too.

Worst hub bearing job I've ever had was a '13 Ram 1500. It was a BATTLE! BOTH sides exactly the same. I ended up using acetylene, getting the knuckle extremely hot, then pounded away with an industrial air hammer for a half hour straight. Hopefully the Durango wasn't designed like this. They put a steel hub assembly into an aluminum knuckle with not one drop of grease or anti-seize compound. Most idiotic thing I've ever seen!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not sure I have an air hammer, have an air chisel but don't think it has enough power. It wasn't fun the last 2 times. I'm guessing left side again so cross your fingers I only need to replace one side. Some of the housing stayed with the hub the last time. The big problem is that the backer plate makes it hard to get a swing on that side not to mention the obvious of the aluminum and steel combination. I may try and bolt a piece of metal to the lugs that extend past the backer plate to get a better swing. I think I put black silicone the last time I replaced them. Not sure if that is recommended but I thought it would keep the water and salt out. I guess I'll see shortly as the part arrives today. What should I put when reinstalling? i.e. silicone, anti-seize etc...
 

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I normally load them up with waterproof off-road Amsoil grease. The stuff is super thick, almost like tar. It was designed for use in yellow equipment that sits outside 365 days a year. Never tried using silicone, so I can't say how well that would work. I think it would trap air inside and still allow for condensation to corrode things over a few years time. Any grease will work, though - anything is better than nothing. Anti seize is a great option, too.

Yeah, they didn't give us a whole ton of room to work in. 21st century engineering for ya.

If you can find a hammer attachment for the air chisel, that's the way to go. Like this: Ajax Tools® - .401 Parker Turn-Type Shank Hammer Bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Okay thanks. I think I tried my air chisel with an attachment like that but I don't think it was powerful enough. I think I remember finally getting out hammering my tie rod separator in the crack.
 

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To replace the hub, soak it in penetrating oil and use an 8-12lb maul. It will come off. You may need to change directions of impact, but it will come off. Put some anti-seize on the mating surface before you put the new one on.

For the bearings only, use a 5lb or bigger slide hammer and some heavy duty washers or one of these kits. Rear Axle Bearing Puller Set
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks. I soaked it last time but remember hammering on it for an hour and that was only on there for 3 years. They sell the whole hub assembly here, didn't even know you could just get the bearing. Not an orderable part here.
 
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