My light is staying on for some reason. I can't see anything that's preventing it from closing all the way. What should I check for?
Gate light stays on 99 Dodge Durango 5.9
basicinstinct911
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My light is staying on for some reason. I can't see anything that's preventing it from closing all the way. What should I check for?
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148 Posts
when I disconnect the switch it's still lit on the dash, but dimmer? make sense?
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4,249 Posts
switch or ctm?
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For what it's worth? I had just hooked up a pair of 12's facing the rear and it seems to start after making it vibrate a little. Why would vibration cause it to go out like that if in fact it's causing it somehow?
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Your 99 "should" have the same switch setup as my 98 and my FSM shows the liftgate ajar switch is a "push-in" type, just like the doors, located right above the latch mechanism. Also, as tomk pointed out, the wiring diagrams show the wiring to the switch also feeds a "liftgate ajar sense input" on the CTM (which controls the dash indicators.) From your symptoms, I'd say this switch is "barely" making contact when the hatch is closed and vibration from the new speakers is rattling the liftgate enough to causing the contacts to open up.
So, unless we're talking "earthquake level" bass from the speakers, I'd say Steve's right and the latch (or possibly the switch) needs to be adjusted a bit so it makes a more secure connection when the hatch is closed. It's also possible the screws/nuts holding the switch in place may have simply loosened up and just need to be tightened back down??
Note, as you can see from the attached image out of my FSM, you'll need to remove the lower liftgate molding to get at the switch.
Good luck!
So, unless we're talking "earthquake level" bass from the speakers, I'd say Steve's right and the latch (or possibly the switch) needs to be adjusted a bit so it makes a more secure connection when the hatch is closed. It's also possible the screws/nuts holding the switch in place may have simply loosened up and just need to be tightened back down??
Note, as you can see from the attached image out of my FSM, you'll need to remove the lower liftgate molding to get at the switch.
Good luck!
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my switch is only held on by one screw. the switch has a place for a second screw on the other side of it but no place to screw it into the body. does that sound right. If it only has one screw? how can it possible stay in place?
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but I didn't see a pilot hole for the second screw
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With only one screw holding the switch in, the "other" side of the switch (without a screw) may be lifting up slightly when the latch presses on it causing your problem.
For these type of switches, the "exact" placement of the second screw isn't going to be as critical as whether the latch presses it in far enough to keep the contacts closed so?<ul>[*]get a sheet metal screw that matches the existing screw size/threads[*]center the switch in the mounting hole and mark the screw hole's position with a pencil/pen/marker/etc.[*]remove the switch[*]drill your own "pilot hole" at the marked location (1/16" bit or smaller depending on the screw size)[*]remount the switch using both screws.[/list]If the missing screw is the problem, that should cure it.
If you still have the problem after doing this, then the switch itself may be going bad or the hatch isn't closing as tightly as it should.
To check hatch closure, remove one of the taillights so you can grab the edge of the hatch when it's closed and check for any in/out movement. If it moves, the "catch" (the U shaped part in the center on the body with the hatch open) needs to be adjusted. Move it toward the front to tighten the hatch but? if you move it too much, the latch won't catch and keep the hatch shut!
For these type of switches, the "exact" placement of the second screw isn't going to be as critical as whether the latch presses it in far enough to keep the contacts closed so?<ul>[*]get a sheet metal screw that matches the existing screw size/threads[*]center the switch in the mounting hole and mark the screw hole's position with a pencil/pen/marker/etc.[*]remove the switch[*]drill your own "pilot hole" at the marked location (1/16" bit or smaller depending on the screw size)[*]remount the switch using both screws.[/list]If the missing screw is the problem, that should cure it.
If you still have the problem after doing this, then the switch itself may be going bad or the hatch isn't closing as tightly as it should.
To check hatch closure, remove one of the taillights so you can grab the edge of the hatch when it's closed and check for any in/out movement. If it moves, the "catch" (the U shaped part in the center on the body with the hatch open) needs to be adjusted. Move it toward the front to tighten the hatch but? if you move it too much, the latch won't catch and keep the hatch shut!
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Would the switch cause the remote start to not work or is there a sensor it says remote start failed because lift gate open when its closed
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It's a 2014
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