Looking for some advice or suggestions. I have a 05 dodge durango 5.7ltr. Drove it to the store one night, drove just fine. Next morning I went out to go to work and it wouldn't start unless I held the accelerator down about half way. When it did start it wouldn't idle started shaking sputtering then would die. Thought it might be the plugs, changed them and nothing. Had three different mobile mechanics come out first guy said fuel pump. He wanted $800 to replace it. So I got one from autozone and installed it and same problem. Had a p0300 code random misfire multiple cylinders. Ended up replacing map sensor maf sensor, new throttle position sensor on the gas pedal new throttle body, pcv valve,crank sensor, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor, o2 sensor, battery, knock sensors, new ecu. I hooked up my fuel pressure gage and while idling (when it does sometimes idle on its own) the needle was jumping from about 50psi to 70psi back and forth. With key on engine off psi is 58 but drops off to about 52psi within around 2-3 seconds. Thought maybe leaking injectors, so im in the middle of replacing them right now. Any suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated,
Hard start/rough idle
Durango Diablo
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Looking for some advice or suggestions. I have a 05 dodge durango 5.7ltr. Drove it to the store one night, drove just fine. Next morning I went out to go to work and it wouldn't start unless I held the accelerator down about half way. When it did start it wouldn't idle started shaking sputtering then would die. Thought it might be the plugs, changed them and nothing. Had three different mobile mechanics come out first guy said fuel pump. He wanted $800 to replace it. So I got one from autozone and installed it and same problem. Had a p0300 code random misfire multiple cylinders. Ended up replacing map sensor maf sensor, new throttle position sensor on the gas pedal new throttle body, pcv valve,crank sensor, cam sensor, oil pressure sensor, o2 sensor, battery, knock sensors, new ecu. I hooked up my fuel pressure gage and while idling (when it does sometimes idle on its own) the needle was jumping from about 50psi to 70psi back and forth. With key on engine off psi is 58 but drops off to about 52psi within around 2-3 seconds. Thought maybe leaking injectors, so im in the middle of replacing them right now. Any suggestions or insight would be greatly appreciated,
Firing the parts cannon at it is the worst thing to do. Then putting aftermarket parts in will be just as bad. For the money you have spent on it you could have taken it to a trusted mechanic or one that someone recommends to you and gotten a better diagnosis than a mobile mechanic or yourself. Your code reader may not be picking up all the codes or be able to drill down deep enough to really help.
2005 Durango Limited, Grey inside and out, 5.7, custom front end, upgraded brakes and sound system
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Agreed. You're just tossing parts, but not finding the problem. Since you've already replaced the battery, try tracing the cables, check fuses and relays, look for broken wires, and make sure you haven't tripped the security system. Having an overnight issue usually points to an electrical systems problem. A much better scan tool may be very helpful. Good luck 👍
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I have checked all fuses and connections all seem to be good security system is good. I now have a manufacturer specific code u3fff and p3c00 and u1411
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Was the battery the first thing you checked? It should have been. Next up would be the charging system.
Are all these parts that were installed oem? If not, you may have swapped bad parts for good ones.
Try this. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then press the brake pedal 30 seconds. Next, reconnect the negative cable and try to start it. If it will idle on its own, let it without touching anything. If all seems better, go for a drive.
Please try this and report back.
Don
Are all these parts that were installed oem? If not, you may have swapped bad parts for good ones.
Try this. Disconnect the negative battery cable, then press the brake pedal 30 seconds. Next, reconnect the negative cable and try to start it. If it will idle on its own, let it without touching anything. If all seems better, go for a drive.
Please try this and report back.
Don
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Sorry for the late reply lots of work. Yes sir, battery was the first thing i replaced, because reading other threads here mentioned to load test the battery and if is anything less than 100% to replace it. Also checked the charging system and everything seems to be as it should. I failed to mentioned that all the parts I replaced was because of codes I got from my scanner, and I used all oem parts because again reading other threads they mentioned how picky the durango can be about after market parts. Disconnected the negative terminal, pressed brakes for 30sec reconnected and started it. It did start right up idling on its own but still very rough. Not sure what to do from here. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
2005 Durango Limited, Grey inside and out, 5.7, custom front end, upgraded brakes and sound system
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Yes, DD's are drama queens for correct voltage. The codes you sent are all related to the fuel system. But, doing a relearn should be done first. If you're still having those same codes, i would do a through cleaning of the fuel lines, injectors and rails. And I'll even go back to 'sling blade'. There isn't any good gas in it. 🫣😅
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Yes sir, I did the throttle relearn, also replaced the TPS on the gas pedal they are apparently discontinued so i retrieved one from u-pull-it. I have cleared all the gas lines and replaced all injectors. My research online while doing the injectors mentioned a return line to the tank, im either overlooking it or i don't have one. And it has about 220k miles on it. Has always ran really great until this hiccup. I apologize for the slow response I had a stroke a couple nights ago, so im trying to navigate having no feeling in my left hand. I really appreciate the input and advice. I'm trying to get back home today to continue working on it. Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Yes sir, I did the throttle relearn, also replaced the TPS on the gas pedal they are apparently discontinued so i retrieved one from u-pull-it. I have cleared all the gas lines and replaced all injectors. My research online while doing the injectors mentioned a return line to the tank, im either overlooking it or i don't have one. And it has about 220k miles on it. Has always ran really great until this hiccup. I apologize for the slow response I had a stroke a couple nights ago, so im trying to navigate having no feeling in my left hand. I really appreciate the input and advice. I'm trying to get back home today to continue working on it. Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated
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Good morning DD:
Sorry to hear of your medical situation, but glad you are still with us and hopefully on the mend. The no feeling thing in your hand has to be frustrating. Have you assessed the charging system, ie alternator at any point to be sure it is up to snuff?
As it runs, (if it will), are you hearing any top end internal clicking/clacking/tapping? Could you make us a video of that you are seeing/hearing carefully from under the hood? You'll need to put it on a host site like youtube, then put a link to it here.
Don
Sorry to hear of your medical situation, but glad you are still with us and hopefully on the mend. The no feeling thing in your hand has to be frustrating. Have you assessed the charging system, ie alternator at any point to be sure it is up to snuff?
As it runs, (if it will), are you hearing any top end internal clicking/clacking/tapping? Could you make us a video of that you are seeing/hearing carefully from under the hood? You'll need to put it on a host site like youtube, then put a link to it here.
Don
2005 Durango Limited, Grey inside and out, 5.7, custom front end, upgraded brakes and sound system
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Well I'm stumped. It seems that you've already repaired or replaced all the usual suspects that would cause this issue. Your DD is just being most uncooperative. As far as the return line, it part of the evac system. But from what you have discussed, I don't see how it would be affecting the issue. I agree with Don about a video to help us have some eyes and ears on it. At this point, all I can think of if a faulty new part. It's very uncommon but not outside the realm of possibility. When you can get it started after the reset, send any new codes as this is just not fixing the problem. Maybe a compression test on those cylinders may point to an internal problem but I just don't see it happening from overnight without any indications now. I hope you're doing better🤔👍
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