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21 RT Crank No Start

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#22 ·
It's your call Luis, but the aftermarket stuff is very much hit or miss these days. Others who have done this R and R and not gone back in w OEM will hopefully jump in with what brand they chose to trust.

I agree with you on doing both modules since the R and R is such a PIA.

Thankfully, the last fuel pump I swapped was on my '04 SLT. The pump itself was fine, but the cheap potmetal retaining ring had rusted, causing the housing to crack, thus tripping the CE light ala PO456. My choice there was oem, and believe it or not they had a $40 core charge on the old one.

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
Yeah, I’m going to just go OEM now my concern is which one, mopar.com is showing 68535771AB that replaces a few models including one that RockAuto sells (6847780AA). Wondering how much variance there are between what I assume are updated parts.

Model number in my tank is different then both (thankfully I assume since I don’t want that variant again.
 
#25 ·
The two letters at the end of the P/N usually indicate which one is the newest version. Example, AA might be the original while AB, AC, AD, etc would be newer versions. I would stay away from one that appeared to be from the same batch as your oem unit.

Paging @NonToxic

Don
 
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#28 ·
At present, other than Rockauto who sometimes handles oem stuff, I do not. I wish I did.
No problem on the support. I enjoy helping where I can. You my friend, are doing the hard part!

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #29 ·
Don Fox said:
At present, other than Rockauto who sometimes handles oem stuff, I do not. I wish I did.
No problem on the support. I enjoy helping where I can. You my friend, are doing the hard part!

Don
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Thanfully, I’m mechanically inclined and my pops was an ASE certified mechanic before he retired many many moons ago. RockAuto has the pump but they don’t show the auxiliary unit or else I would just order from them right now.

It’s been a helluva day, worse part now is I’m having more trouble trying to get the parts ordered than taking this damn thing apart.
 
#30 ·
When I had my tank out, I went ahead and replaced the auxiliary unit as well. I am not sure it was necessary since it is really just a siphon from the primary pump on the driver side. The only electrical portion is the fuel level sending unit. I replaced my fuel pump with a KPM1000 since I have some performance components installed. I sourced my auxiliary sending unit from eBay thinking it may be associated with my original issues. Turns out, there were other things that needed to be sorted out.

Hats off to you for dropping the tank on Jack stands. I did the same and it was not a fun process.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Yeah I was up in the air on auxiliary unit but like you said, it’s a pita to get the tank down so while I’m in there. Where you also having crank / no start? Or just swapping the pump for performance and had other issues along the way?

I just ordered the pump from RockAuto and the au from mopar direct but. I’m hoping I’m dealing with premature pump failure and that it’s an isolated issue and doesn’t impact newer batches of these things.

I’m really hoping the Durango doesn’t have any issues aside from this. Love the truck but really hoped she would be reliable. Other thing I have had twice is the random check engine that is resolved by messing with the wires under the seat. Forget the code it threw but it happened a few months apart. No drivability issues just the check engine…
 
#32 ·
Luisrm02 said:
Are the newer units more reliable? Now that I’ve got everything out I’m looking at the Mopar parts and wonder if they are revised and reliable now or is it worth looking into a different brand. Also while I’m in there I’m gonna go ahead and change the auxiliary unit since this was “fun” I don’t want to have to do again anytime soon. Thoughts?
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They were fixed sometime in 2021. The current part is 68535771AB and new retainer gasket 68304753AA
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Vice-White said:

They were fixed sometime in 2021. The current part is 68535771AB and new retainer gasket 68304753AA
Click to expand...
Crap, RockAuto part number is 68477870AA…is this likely new old stock and should I be worried? This has been quite a bit of work to install another part that will have issues down the line…
 
#34 ·
Luisrm02 said:
Crap, RockAuto part number is 68477870AA…is this likely new old stock and should I be worried? This has been quite a bit of work to install another part that will have issues down the line…
Click to expand...
That part is still active on Mopar.com so this tells me it may not have been the fuel pump itself, rather an installation issue at the factory like a poor fitting hose or damaged hose.

Did you pull yours and see what it looks like?
 
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Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
Vice-White said:
That part is still active on Mopar.com so this tells me it may not have been the fuel pump itself, rather an installation issue at the factory like a poor fitting hose or damaged hose.

Also the number above isn’t my pump number, it’s the number of the part that RockAuto sold that mapped to my 2021 RT. So that number is possibly, different than what it is mine. I checked this number on Mopar.com store and it just shows the new number that you provided. Says “replaces” and has 3 or 4 numbers including the one RockAuto is sending.

Did you pull yours and see what it looks like?
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I haven’t pulled the pump yet, once I dropped the tank it started pouring rain so I just slid out and called it a day. Ordered the new pump.

Would what you’re describing cause an all out failure where the pump itself no longer runs? My initial thought was electrical but everything looked ok, body harness was fine, power on start…man I hope it wasn’t something else after all this work! Lol…
 
#37 ·
Luisrm02 said:
Pump came in today RockAuto for the win, it’s the newest iteration! Phew, that had me a little on the edge. This weekend we’ll get her in there and report back. Appreciate everyone’s here! Great community.
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This is amazing that you did this. Bravo to you sir! I am very much looking forward to your completed job!
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Vice-White said:
This is amazing that you did this. Bravo to you sir! I am very much looking forward to your completed job!
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Whelp, don’t pat me on the back just yet…if I get it all in and she don’t start I’m back to where I started but with extra wear and tear on these bones for no good reason! Lol…

Got motivated and bought brake pads and a PCV valve for fun while I was at it. Also considered replacing the transmission fluid and the pan cover but looked at the procedure and I’m like hmmmmmmm…physically straightforward but wonder how wrong it can go if you don’t get it somehow just right with the temperature and the fluid in the cooling lines and what not.
 
#40 ·
Luisrm02 said:
Whelp, don’t pat me on the back just yet…if I get it all in and she don’t start I’m back to where I started but with extra wear and tear on these bones for no good reason! Lol…

Got motivated and bought brake pads and a PCV valve for fun while I was at it. Also considered replacing the transmission fluid and the pan cover but looked at the procedure and I’m like hmmmmmmm…physically straightforward but wonder how wrong it can go if you don’t get it somehow just right with the temperature and the fluid in the cooling lines and what not.
Click to expand...
At room temp you can drop the pan and catch all the trans fluid. Measure it put the same amount back in with a couple ounces extra. Or you can do the routine. Me personally I would do the room temp method, not sure how you can go wrong with that way. Get the Dorman pan as well.
 
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