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21 RT Crank No Start

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3.2K views 55 replies 9 participants last post by  Luisrm02  
L
#1 ·
Hi Folks,

Long time lurker, first sad post. My wife was sitting at idle today and her Rango just stopped running. She went to crank it back up and crank but no start. We’ve had the car since September 2021, cranks strong, tried to jump it for the heck of it but nothing. We have 68k miles on her so warranty is done. Towed her home…$317 poorer.

Once I got it home, sprayed carb cleaner in the throttle body and it started then of course stops once I stop spraying.

Digging through old posts I checked the passenger side body harness plug and it looks good, nothing melted. F70 looks fine, tested for continuity all good. Popped my meter on and had her start and I get in the 10+ volts then when it stops cranking it bumps back up between 11.96 to 11.98 volts. Swapped the relay and same issue. Pulled the fuse box and c25 felt fine, wasn’t loose or anything. Didn’t check the voltage, was getting late and starting to rain.

Would super appreciate any assistance and thank anyone in advance, would hate to take it to the dealer just to have them start part swapping at my expense. Tough to believe it would be a bad fuel pump with less than 70k miles but mechanical parts, anything is possible I suppose. 🤷‍♂️
 
#4 ·
If it starts with starting fluid, you have a fuel delivery issue. Can you hear it prime when you do cycle the start button without a foot on the brake pedal? If it still won't start, try thumping the fuel tank a couple of times on each side, then try to start it. If it fires, up. strike 2 on the fuel pump.

FYI, I seem to recall a small number of '21 D owners who experienced early fuel pump failure. It's a shame you are just out of warranty.

Don
 
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L
#5 ·
So, just went outside and didn’t hear the pump prime and banged both sides of the tank but nothing. It’s so odd for it just to cut out at idle and nothing after. I know mechanical devices fail but man, usually pump will crap out a little and effect drivability some bogging, then cut but this thing was just instant off and doesn’t even try to send fuel. I guess I’m trying to eliminate anything else first since getting to the pump is more than ridiculous. Why dodge couldn’t have popped in an access port…well nevermind, cost them 20 bucks in parts and then I guess they can’t get over 1 to 3k for a repair. Pretty crappy to think the pump could be dead after less than 5 years and under 70k if the pump ends up being the culprit.

Is there anything else I should be looking at?
 
#7 · (Edited)
Luis:
Such things can and do happen. Checking power to the pump is a good step. If you have it, and the pump no worky, it's time for a new one. As I mentioned, I think Dodge had a bad parts run with fuel pumps in the '21 model year. We had a much larger problem with the 5.7/6.4L water pumps from '13-'17. It was so bad, the oem part(s) were on national backorder, and Dodge extended the warranty on those pumps to 7 years and unlimited miles.

Unfortunately, if the pump is bad, the exhaust, rear driveshaft, and tank have to come down. Oem is recommended.

Don
 
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#10 ·
I've not had the issue, so can't advise on that. Plenty of folks here have though, and hopefully they will chime in. There are online links to manuals from libraries that can guide you.

Don
 
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#12 ·
2021 was a bad year for fuel pumps in Durangos. May no start conditions then all of a sudden it starts or poor power and hesitation.
I have a 21 also and thought I skated the problem but it looks like they break fairly new or die after a certain amount of long term use.
 
#18 ·
Has anyone made a list of issues like this one? That would be extremely helpful if someone did.
Buying a 21 model year used only have the fuel pump go out on you would kinda suck. This could be something that one could look into to see if it was replaced or not. If not and your buying a 21, I would just buy one and replace it anyway to avoid getting towed.
 
#17 ·
The driveshaft is one piece with a carrier bearing in the middle.
 
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#22 ·
It's your call Luis, but the aftermarket stuff is very much hit or miss these days. Others who have done this R and R and not gone back in w OEM will hopefully jump in with what brand they chose to trust.

I agree with you on doing both modules since the R and R is such a PIA.

Thankfully, the last fuel pump I swapped was on my '04 SLT. The pump itself was fine, but the cheap potmetal retaining ring had rusted, causing the housing to crack, thus tripping the CE light ala PO456. My choice there was oem, and believe it or not they had a $40 core charge on the old one.

Don
 
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L
#23 ·
Yeah, I’m going to just go OEM now my concern is which one, mopar.com is showing 68535771AB that replaces a few models including one that RockAuto sells (6847780AA). Wondering how much variance there are between what I assume are updated parts.

Model number in my tank is different then both (thankfully I assume since I don’t want that variant again.
 
#25 ·
The two letters at the end of the P/N usually indicate which one is the newest version. Example, AA might be the original while AB, AC, AD, etc would be newer versions. I would stay away from one that appeared to be from the same batch as your oem unit.

Paging @NonToxic

Don
 
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#28 ·
At present, other than Rockauto who sometimes handles oem stuff, I do not. I wish I did.
No problem on the support. I enjoy helping where I can. You my friend, are doing the hard part!

Don
 
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L
#29 ·
Thanfully, I’m mechanically inclined and my pops was an ASE certified mechanic before he retired many many moons ago. RockAuto has the pump but they don’t show the auxiliary unit or else I would just order from them right now.

It’s been a helluva day, worse part now is I’m having more trouble trying to get the parts ordered than taking this damn thing apart.
 
#30 ·
When I had my tank out, I went ahead and replaced the auxiliary unit as well. I am not sure it was necessary since it is really just a siphon from the primary pump on the driver side. The only electrical portion is the fuel level sending unit. I replaced my fuel pump with a KPM1000 since I have some performance components installed. I sourced my auxiliary sending unit from eBay thinking it may be associated with my original issues. Turns out, there were other things that needed to be sorted out.

Hats off to you for dropping the tank on Jack stands. I did the same and it was not a fun process.
 
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