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Just cross posting this from the other thread because I somehow have managed to have 2 active threads regarding this matter :)

Just went down and checked, the Battery Tender had switched to only GREEN LED illuminated which means that it was "Fully charged". I slapped it back into the DD and boy did it start better than it had in a great long while (yes, I'd been experiencing some extended length cold start issues since say... 2017?).

Unfortunately, a quick rev with the skinny pedal yielded a dashboard shutdown and some intermittent wiper action and actually a bit of the driver seat moving back? That last one is a new one!!! Either way, I'm still not sure we can totally rule out the battery as it is 9 damned years old. Furthermore, I should probably consider replacing the battery simply because of age... But is this really the root cause of my problem? IDK...
 
Yes, I would put money on the battery. DDs are VERY sensitive to battery weakness. At 9 years you have gotten all it can provide you.
 
Yes, I would put money on the battery. DDs are VERY sensitive to battery weakness. At 9 years you have gotten all it can provide you.
Winner! It seems that replacing the battery has remediated all of the strange goings on with the 'lectric system.

@Tin Foil Hat

Thanks again for the input. I wouldn't have believed that replacing the battery would be the fix unless I saw it first hand, so there it is.
 
Ok, so I have more information. New battery, everything is connected; at idle, a slight fluctuation can be seen on my oscilloscope. So am I midway through losing an alternator, and perhaps THAT could be causing the pain? (part where I nearly fried my entire truck by pulling the negative from the battery while its running deleted).

I pulled the center console bezel and sides and went through all that wiring in the console. I cleaned up the two ground points under the center console, cleaned up the connectors for the shifter knob and the awd/low range selector knob as well as the other connections there to the USB ports/SDIO card, the cigarette lighter outlets, and the body controller that's under the center console? Unfortunately, that didn't clean up my gremlins; I will say that my battery idiot light is pretty much always on now, even though the voltage reads at 15V in the EVIC.

As for belts, my belt is relatively new. However, it's on a 6% overdrive ATI balancer and has to spin the Vortech V3 Si Trim blower. The idler/tensioner is about 50% engaged, so I don't think Im dealing with a slipping belt. The RIPP kit came with a gates belt, but that one was 1" too long, even before the new overdrive balancer. So I've got a fairly custom belt config.
 

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Um, he already fixed it by replacing the alternator. Thanks for playing.
 
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Um, he already fixed it by replacing the alternator. Thanks for playing.
Which I already had to replace under warranty again :). Thankfully, the AutoZone alternator has a lifetime warranty :). I'm usually one to do OEM or aftermarket upgraded parts, but in this case, I didn't have the luxury of deciding that since it died on me at like 3am on the roadside :p
 
I was wondering if anyone has come up with a fix for these gremlins. I'm having similar issues with my 14 Durango. Mine starts without issue but then the flickering begins on the dash with the service shifter, transmission message along with TC flashing, and power steering. Occasionally the dash will black out and then come back on. Also can hear buzzing in the shifter knob. When I shift into drive with my foot on the brake it feels as if it's trying to pulse or lurch forward. I've read numerous posts about replacing the battery, So that was my first step. Same issues though. OBD sensor shows 10 codes. The codes all seem to be associated with control modules and invalid data. I am at a total loss here. Called the dealership and they can't see me for 3 weeks! I will list the codes.. Hoping to get my next step here. TIA
U0416 invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module
U0140 Lost communication with body control module
U0402 Invalid data received from TCM
U110C, U1110, U1120, U1412, U1403, U110E, U11BC..... Manufacturer Control
 
Vibration through the shifter knob shouldn't be related because there isn't any haptic responses in it. You might need to pull the console apart and see if the shifter wiring is good and if the connections are good. You could have a poor ground or a pinched wire. Others have found issues below the knob, like liquid that has spilled into it.
 
Vibration through the shifter knob shouldn't be related because there isn't any haptic responses in it. You might need to pull the console apart and see if the shifter wiring is good and if the connections are good. You could have a poor ground or a pinched wire. Others have found issues below the knob, like liquid that has spilled into it.
Thank you. Checked it and looks good. I'm out of ideas.. took it to a shop and of course, all was normal by the time they looked at it.
 
The dealership that has it says they are pretty sure it’s the power steering pump. They’re going to replace that and test it.
Why on earth this would go out, and start with “service shifter” - I’m confused
Hi odessadoo my 2015 dodge durango rt is going through the same thing did they find the issue by chance the dodge dealer is not finding mine
 
Well im having the exact same problem. Its been towed four times and i have only had it sense feb 2 of this year this is a nightmare. Replaced the battery twice...all kinds of sensors fuses.....the shifter didnt at all get wet.....im at a complete loss i love my durango but this makes me want to trade it in and never look back.....any ideas....it starts now but it wont be long till it drains my battery and says service shifter and just flashes but wont go into gear wont go anywhere
Hey having same issue did you find the fix ??
 
Just cross posting this from the other thread because I somehow have managed to have 2 active threads regarding this matter :)

Just went down and checked, the Battery Tender had switched to only GREEN LED illuminated which means that it was "Fully charged". I slapped it back into the DD and boy did it start better than it had in a great long while (yes, I'd been experiencing some extended length cold start issues since say... 2017?).

Unfortunately, a quick rev with the skinny pedal yielded a dashboard shutdown and some intermittent wiper action and actually a bit of the driver seat moving back? That last one is a new one!!! Either way, I'm still not sure we can totally rule out the battery as it is 9 damned years old. Furthermore, I should probably consider replacing the battery simply because of age... But is this really the root cause of my problem? IDK...
Hey was that the fix??
 
Hey did you ever find the fix boss ?
So I replaced both the battery and then shortly thereafter the alternator quit charging too. After that, the problems subsided. So It was both the 10 yo battery that I replaced and then the 2nd alternator replacement.
 
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