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supamark

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My battery died while I was the park. I had It jumped and soon after the battery light came on and it shut down. I changed the battery and still got the battery light. I changed the alternator and got the same thing in addition to getting a low voltage message on the scanner. I installed an external voltage regulator and still getting a the same low voltage message. Not sure what else to check other than all new alternator. Any suggestions?
 
Mark:
What you describe is text book for the alternator not charging. It sounds like it ran off the battery until the battery could no longer run it.
If your battery was older, good choice on a new one. Did you have both the old and new alternators tested before you left the parts store? Never assume that the new one is good, and testing the old one would have told you right away if the old one was good or not. I would go and do that.
It sounds like you may have a fuse, wiring, or PCM issue though.


Don
 
Did you happen to check the two fuses associated with the battery and charging system as shown in the wiring diagram below? If the fuses are good, then it could be the powertrain control module (PCM) and or the wiring connecting to the PCM and the alternator.

Here is an excerpt from the Chilton Library for a 2011 Durango. It is available for free via most public libraries' website. Just log into your library's website and search for Chilton.

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Charging System Description

The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is not a separate component. On gas engine vehicles it is actually a voltage regulating circuit located within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). For the Common Rail Diesel (CRD) 3.0L engine, the EVR is located internal to the generator and communicates with the PCM via LIN bus. The EVR is not serviced separately in either instance. If replacement is necessary, the PCM (gas) or generator (CRD) must be replaced.

OPERATION

The amount of DC current produced by the generator is controlled by EVR circuitry contained within the PCM. This circuitry is connected in series with the generators second rotor field terminal and its ground.

Voltage is regulated by cycling the battery voltage to control the strength of the rotor magnetic field. The EVR circuitry monitors system line voltage (B+) and battery temperature (refer to Battery Temperature Sensor for more information). It then determines a target charging voltage. If sensed battery voltage is 0.5 volts or lower than the target voltage, the PCM energizes the field winding until sensed battery voltage is 0.5 volts above target voltage. A circuit in the PCM cycles the battery side of the generator field up to 100 times per second (100Hz), but has the capability to full field to achieve the target voltage. If the charging rate cannot be monitored (limp-in), a duty cycle of 25% is used by the PCM in order to have some generator output.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CHARGING SYSTEM

The following procedures may be used to diagnose the charging system if:

  • The check gauges lamp (if equipped) is illuminated with the engine running
  • The voltmeter (if equipped) does not register properly
  • An undercharged or overcharged battery condition occurs
Remember that an undercharged battery is often caused by:

  • Accessories being left on with the engine not running
  • A faulty or improperly adjusted switch that allows a lamp to stay on, refer to Ignition-Off Draw Test in the Battery section for more information.
INSPECTION

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors critical input and output circuits of the charging system, making sure they are operational. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is assigned to each input and output circuit monitored by the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system. Some charging system circuits are checked continuously, and some are checked only under certain conditions.

Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Codes in; Powertrain Control Module; Electronic Control Modules for more DTC information. This will include a complete list of DTCs including DTCs for the charging system.

To perform a complete test of the charging system, refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Test Procedures and use a diagnostic scan tool. Perform the following inspections before attaching the scan tool.

  1. Inspect the battery condition.
  2. Inspect condition of battery cable terminals, battery posts, connections at engine block, starter solenoid and relay. They should be clean and tight. Repair as required.
  3. Inspect all fuses in both the fuse block and Power Distribution Center (PDC) for tightness in receptacles. They should be properly installed and tight. Repair or replace as required.
  4. Inspect generator mounting bolts for tightness. Replace or tighten bolts if required.
  5. Inspect generator drive belt condition and tension. Tighten or replace belt as required.
  6. Inspect automatic belt tensioner (if equipped).
  7. Inspect generator electrical connections at generator field, battery output, and ground terminal (if equipped). Also check generator ground wire connection at engine (if equipped). They should all be clean and tight. Repair as required.


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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Mark:
What you describe is text book for the alternator not charging. It sounds like it ran off the battery until the battery could no longer run it.
If your battery was older, good choice on a new one. Did you have both the old and new alternators tested before you left the parts store? Never assume that the new one is good, and testing the old one would have told you right away if the old one was good or not. I would go and do that.
It sounds like you may have a fuse, wiring, or PCM issue though.


Don
Unfortunately, no I didn't. My next step is to do that. I got a PCM reading initially but now it's just the low voltage output. Has anyone used an external voltage regulator and it worked?
 
As someone already said sounds like a classic Alternator problem. Did you get a New alternator or a Raman?

Try this. Make sure the battery has a full charge. Start the Durango. While it's running pull the battery cable to disconnect it. See if it shut off or still runs?
 
LexGS350:
Doing that as a diagnostic tool on vehicles from 30 or more years ago was useful, but not on today's modern cars.
You can do damage because the many computer systems need the battery to be properly connected to run.

Don
 
Yes heard that before but saw a actual controlled monitored Voltage test some time ago that proved that theory possibly wrong. Included the fact that if the battery was dead, it would in itself create that problem. Unless ones claiming the battery is a buffer, which has a problem with that.

What it did consider before the testing was that if the Alternator was highly overcharging then there was a mild possibility the voltage would not regulate and in that situation there was a slight possibly of damage if....

They ended the testing measures of many, many newer modern car and ended with this as the results summary - Most newer cars do not have a separate regulator. The ECU PCM controls that function. It precisely controls accurate voltage, and will do that same function, battery or no battery. The test result showed this the case 100% every time in the disconnected battery case.

If you think it's not a good idea then don't do it. There was also research to look and investigate cases claimed of electronics damage.

If you advise against it would would defer you your advise to not then.
 
LexGS350:
Respectfully, unless one is certain that doing a particular procedure won't cause any harm, it's not prudent to suggest it.
I'm by no means a pro, but I know enough to not do what you suggested. It might harm one car, an not another.
IMO, also not worth the risk.

Don
 
Hard to follow what Lex posted. Very difficult to read. Maybe a language barrier issue here?
 
LexGS350:
Respectfully, unless one is certain that doing a particular procedure won't cause any harm, it's not prudent to suggest it.
I'm by no means a pro, but I know enough to not do what you suggested. It might harm one car, an not another.
IMO, also not worth the risk.

Don
I was just sharing a counter point of research that I had read some years ago is all. As I said in my pervious post I would follow your recommendation to Not do it, being you mentioned what you did. I'm not saying that it def would be a problem, or not be, just withdrawing my suggestion of the battery disconnect procedure and conceding your advise. Thanks.
 
Hard to follow what Lex posted. Very difficult to read. Maybe a language barrier issue here?
I find this to be a strange and also kind of insulting comment. I have no such problem, never had, and won't even get into who I am, what I do, and where I'm from. lol! Sorry you had a difficulty following, but I don't know what to tell you and don't want to insult you back.

Maybe a misunderstanding issue on someone's part here?
 
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