I’ve been having an issue with things popping up saying service electronic stability control, service trailer brake system. Code reader and dealership say it’s the ABS module and abs Hydraulic control unit. Any chance it could be something else? It doesn’t pop up all the time. usually during the winter it doesn’t pop up much but when it’s warm outside the alerts pop up more frequently. Durango is a 2021 and has 67k miles on it
2021 Durango issue
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MattyIce9514
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I’ve been having an issue with things popping up saying service electronic stability control, service trailer brake system. Code reader and dealership say it’s the ABS module and abs Hydraulic control unit. Any chance it could be something else? It doesn’t pop up all the time. usually during the winter it doesn’t pop up much but when it’s warm outside the alerts pop up more frequently. Durango is a 2021 and has 67k miles on it
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What is/are the OBD-II code(s)?
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Only codes I’m getting right now are U0418 and C0572. 418 is saying PCM is receiving invalid data from brake system control module. 0572 is saying problem with brake switch A circuit specifically showing low voltage.
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Other code I had was C0044-01 ABS pressure sensor failure.
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It sounds like the dealer is correct based on the information provided, however you never know until you get into the actual hands on troubleshooting. For example, something as simple as an old battery can cause all kinds of craziness on new cars.
In the attached troubleshooting guide one of the first step states "Check the Battery for proper State of Charge (SOC) and the Charging System for proper operation." Just about everyone on here will ask about the age/status of the car's battery. Most car batteries only last about three to four years. Given you car is a 2021, I would assume it might have the original battery.
If it is the original battery, I would be proactive and change it because it may not have much life left in it. I like the Interstate brand of batteries and Costco has them at a great price, but you have to install it yourself. If you do install it yourself, always disconnect the negative terminal first (put it on last) and don't forget to pull the vent tube back on the new battery. I also like using NCP2 on the terminals to help prevent corrosion.
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If you want to perform some troubleshooting yourself, take the codes and put them into the Chilton Library. Most public library's offer this service for free. Just log into your library's website and search for Chilton.
Below is an excerpt from the Chilton Library for the codes. I have also attached the communication diagnostic procedures as an example of the information you will find there.
C0044-01: Brake Pressure Sensor 1 - General Electrical Failure. The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module indicates that the Brake Pressure Sensor Signal is out of range. For this failure it is necessary to replace both the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) as a complete unit. This is known as the Integrated Control Unit (ICU).
Possible Causes
Anit-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module
Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
Integrated Control Unit (ICU)
U0418-00: Implausible data received from brake system control module 1. The communication diagnostic procedure must be performed before replacing any component(s) or module(s).
C0572: Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Circuit High
Possible Causes
Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
Integrated Control Unit (ICU)
Anit-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module
In the attached troubleshooting guide one of the first step states "Check the Battery for proper State of Charge (SOC) and the Charging System for proper operation." Just about everyone on here will ask about the age/status of the car's battery. Most car batteries only last about three to four years. Given you car is a 2021, I would assume it might have the original battery.
If it is the original battery, I would be proactive and change it because it may not have much life left in it. I like the Interstate brand of batteries and Costco has them at a great price, but you have to install it yourself. If you do install it yourself, always disconnect the negative terminal first (put it on last) and don't forget to pull the vent tube back on the new battery. I also like using NCP2 on the terminals to help prevent corrosion.
If you want to perform some troubleshooting yourself, take the codes and put them into the Chilton Library. Most public library's offer this service for free. Just log into your library's website and search for Chilton.
Below is an excerpt from the Chilton Library for the codes. I have also attached the communication diagnostic procedures as an example of the information you will find there.
C0044-01: Brake Pressure Sensor 1 - General Electrical Failure. The Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module indicates that the Brake Pressure Sensor Signal is out of range. For this failure it is necessary to replace both the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module and the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) as a complete unit. This is known as the Integrated Control Unit (ICU).
Possible Causes
Anit-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module
Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
Integrated Control Unit (ICU)
U0418-00: Implausible data received from brake system control module 1. The communication diagnostic procedure must be performed before replacing any component(s) or module(s).
C0572: Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Circuit High
Possible Causes
Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU)
Integrated Control Unit (ICU)
Anit-Lock Brake System (ABS) Module
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Will do thank you!
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I’ll try the battery. Just saw the estimate for the ABS module and Hydraulic replacement and was definitely not thrilled with the cost. I just find it weird it’s already causing issues and it hasn’t even hit 75k-100k miles yet.
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Matty:
Is this the 5.7L or 3.6L engine? I'll agree that you should not be having this sort of issue so early in its life.
If you have the 3.6L, there are 2 batteries instead of one. If either one fails the load test, you'll want to replace them as they work together.
If you replace them, they are located under the passenger seat. Before you connect the new ones, depress the brake pedal 30 seconds, then reconnect and fire it up. If all seem well, go for a spin and see what you have.
Don
Is this the 5.7L or 3.6L engine? I'll agree that you should not be having this sort of issue so early in its life.
If you have the 3.6L, there are 2 batteries instead of one. If either one fails the load test, you'll want to replace them as they work together.
If you replace them, they are located under the passenger seat. Before you connect the new ones, depress the brake pedal 30 seconds, then reconnect and fire it up. If all seem well, go for a spin and see what you have.
Don
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It’s the 5.7
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Ok on the 5.7L. Have the battery tested, and replace if is comes back less than 100%. Depending on your Durangos build date, the battery could be 5+ years old.
Please get it tested, and report back what you find. Are you seeing anything regarding the "battery saver mode" when it's hot out and you have lots of load on the electrical system?
Don
Please get it tested, and report back what you find. Are you seeing anything regarding the "battery saver mode" when it's hot out and you have lots of load on the electrical system?
Don
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Haven’t seen anything about battery saver mode.
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