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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I think I got it?

The relay is energized when
{the coolant temperature is above 80? C (176? F)}
or
{battery temperature sensor above ?12? C (10? F)}
or
{air conditioning is selected and coolant temperature is above 95? C (203? F)}
or
{air conditioning is selected and battery temperature sensor is above 41? C (106? F)}.

The fan is then de-energized when
{coolant temperature drops below 82? C (180? F)
or
{battery temperature sensor below ?9? C (16? F)}
or
{air conditioning is selected and coolant temperature is below 92? C (198? F)},
or
{air conditioning is selected and battery temperature is below 38? C (100? F).}

So it's also possible it could be the battery temp sensor. Where would that be and how would I check it? According to the parsed-version from the FSM, if the battery temp is above 10F, the fan should be on?that sounds kinda odd to me?
 
That's how I'd parse it, but that can't be right.

The battery temp is almost always above 10F, so the fan would be on all the time.

So I don't trust the wording.

my guess is that the fan is disabled if the batt temp is too low.

One reading of the words would say that the AC won't turn on the fan if the batt temp is below 100F? that might be true (though it seems odd)?

I don't think your batt temp sensor is bad, though?

It's a round thing under the battery, IIRC it has a spring to make sure it makes firm contact with the bottom of the battery.

?tom
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Update?

I tried jumpering pins 30 & 87 on the relay socket as suggested?got nothing. Went to AutoZone and they had a replacement relay for ~$6. Plugged it in and drove around a while but temp gauge never got above about the 11:30 position or so and the electric fan never came on. Then again it was only about 80 degrees out and overcast so it probably wasn't hot enough.
Sat in the driveway for a while waiting on the electric to cut on but it never did. AC on or off made no difference.
It didn't overheat, but I'm still concerned about the electric fan not coming on.

Is there a connector somewhere I could disconnect and apply 12v directly to the fan to verify it's still good?

I'm open for anymore suggestions or ideas?

TIA!!
 
Jumpering 30-87 gives you a circuit that's battery-fuse-jumper-fan-ground. With a test light you should be able to see what's not working.

The only connector in the circuit is at the radiator fan; the attached also shows the location of the ground (G112) but it's the ground for pretty much everything up front (lights, horns, etc.) so I'd expect you'd have other problems if it was bad.
 

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