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Discussion starter · #141 ·
I ran the VIN on it and it doesn't show as theft. That's as far as I went with it. And I have all the communications with seller all on text locked into my messages. And he has well established platforms we communicated on, long history and not some accounts made just this month. One platform we communicate on dates back to 2011 and has plenty of traffic with sold items and such. Provided VIN promptly when requested, and when I purchased the provided matched on windshield, door, and at battery terminal section in chassis. As to his deal with bank, dealer, or title pawn company, that's on him. I contracted with him and not whoever he deals with. My concern was if it was clean or not and the number shows clean.
Okay, stoop..... I will reread this in the morning and get busy trying to figure out uconnect.
 
This thread should be closed. Anyone else down the road looking for similar advice will gain nothing from any of this, except for the fact that's it's easiest and cheapest to buy the model you really want, and doing swaps in modern vehicles is a nightmare unless you have all the parts and unlimited funds.

This ain't like it used to be, when we'd swap a 360 in place of a 318.
 
I agree that this thread is going nowhere fast. Starks: It has no bearing on how much communication you have with the seller, the vehicle will still be considered stolen if he claims he has no idea what happened to it. You really don't want it to be found in your possession nor to have VIN identifiable parts from it when the task force comes calling.
 
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Have to agree with others. If there's a lein on the title someone is owed $$$ from that car. The lein is associated with all the parts on the the car at the time the lein was established. Just because some parts aren't stamped with the VIN doesn't mean you can take them off and buy/sell them separately.

My bet is this VIN hasn't shown up as stolen yet because it's from a different state and police databases aren't synced up. Or the person that sold it to you stopped making payments and will report it stolen in a couple of weeks.
 
From what I am aware. Regardless of any agreements with the prior owner... If the prior owner does not meet the Lien obligation, the Lien Holder has the right to retrieve the vehicle or assume you will now be responsible to meet the obligation in lieu of vehicle forfeiture.
 
Discussion starter · #149 ·
Yeah, I do see the plausible issue here. However, the language of the elements of a crime are well understood with reading. When the elements of a crime state such things as Knowingly and Intentionally did possess or engage, etc these are the parts alot of ppl don't understand about the law. Sure when you have no proof such as in depth communication messages etc when the task force comes, then yes, you cannot show that you did not knowingly or intentionally recieve stolen shit. But when you have clear communications that outline you very repeatedly asking and enquiring as to the disposition of something, requesting vin, and then say it were reported stolen 3 months from now, then the dates and times of the purchase predate any such reporting, so the proof would be that IN GOOD FAITH and having procured vin at time of sale, the purchase was clean. When u purchase a PARTS CAR even at auction there is no title. It's parts only. Ppl buy stuff at auction all the time that ends up dispositions down the road with liens on them. Happens allllll the time.
On the other hand, I think maybe you guys are right, seems like this thread has convoluted (spell check please) this forum and tangled too many panties, and although I'm confident in a one by one, one on one situation with any 2 legged creature in this universe, I don't partake in gang and multiple antagonists against one environments. So I'll let this thread fall back. If by some miracle (as most here seem to believe this will be if I complete it) I complete this. I'll post final and fairwell videos to all, and to all a good night.
 
From what I am aware. Regardless of any agreements with the prior owner... If the prior owner does not meet the Lien obligation, the Lien Holder has the right to retrieve the vehicle or assume you will now be responsible to meet the obligation in lieu of vehicle forfeiture.
I highly doubt the amount paid was equal to the lien amount. Which means the lien holder can retrieve the car if the monthly isn't being paid. The person the lien holder thinks owns the car will tell them that they sold it for a lower amount then the lien amount. If they give the lien holder the money they sold the car for either through paying the monthly or a lump sum they'll still owe the difference.

Basically the original "owner" of the car has their back up against the wall. 99.99999% chance they report it as stolen soon + pocket whatever Jstarks11 paid them.

Looking at this a different way someone who was likely upside down on their payments found someone to pay them and take the car away. Before they report it stolen.
 
Discussion starter · #151 ·
I highly doubt the amount paid was equal to the lien amount. Which means the lien holder can retrieve the car if the monthly isn't being paid. The person the lien holder thinks owns the car will tell them that they sold it for a lower amount then the lien amount. If they give the lien holder the money they sold the car for either through paying the monthly or a lump sum they'll still owe the difference.

Basically the original "owner" of the car has their back up against the wall. 99.99999% chance they report it as stolen soon + pocket whatever Jstarks11 paid them.

Looking at this a different way someone who was likely upside down on their payments found someone to pay them and take the car away. Before they report it stolen.
As mentioned in the last post, I'm falling back. But to reply one last time to ur post. Appearantly according to the owner, he pawned the title to a title pawn company. And so therefore it could only EVER be a civil issue with task force NEVER having any ability to suit up. However, anythING is possible and it could very well be a bank or dealer and what u said, a possible reporting at any time now. But my communications for evidence shows the title was pawned to a title company.
 
Good thing you are also a lawyer. :rolleyes:
 
As mentioned in the last post, I'm falling back. But to reply one last time to ur post. Appearantly according to the owner, he pawned the title to a title pawn company. And so therefore it could only EVER be a civil issue with task force NEVER having any ability to suit up. However, anythING is possible and it could very well be a bank or dealer and what u said, a possible reporting at any time now. But my communications for evidence shows the title was pawned to a title company.
I just looked up title pawn I didn't know something like this exists. Sounds like it's a high interest rate loan that uses your cars title as security. If you don't pay they reposses your car.

Same situation as if a traditional bank held the title and provided a loan that you pay off monthly.

I bet you can even have a traditional bank loan and a pawn loan on the same car. If you stop paying it becomes a race to see who can repo it first. If the pawn shop repos it first they can pay off the bank loan and own the car for "cheap".

As a former pawn shop employee I can guarantee they'll track down where the car is and in who's possession.
 
This thread should be closed. Anyone else down the road looking for similar advice will gain nothing from any of this, except for the fact that's it's easiest and cheapest to buy the model you really want, and doing swaps in modern vehicles is a nightmare unless you have all the parts and unlimited funds.

This ain't like it used to be, when we'd swap a 360 in place of a 318.
I don't care one way or the other whether or not the thread stays open, or gets closed, but everything else hits the nail right on the head.

Swaps ended for me around the 2000 model year. I was able to take a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4.3 V6, throw all the failure prone electronics in the trash, update the gaskets to better Fel-Pro stuff, and install an Edelbrock intake, carburetor, and a HEI ignition, then put the engine in a '89 S10 Blazer. That engine suddenly went from constantly breaking down, failing emissions (in a '00), and constantly misfiring, to being the most reliable and FUN vehicle in my fleet! Only lost 0.5 MPG, but gained exponential throttle response, starting speed (like 10° of crank rotation and VROOM!), significant gains in the low and midrange, and a TON of top-end power. I'd have kept it if it didn't rust away to nothing. Wife drove it most of the time for winter commuting in MA - the road-salt capitol of the world.

Nobody could pay me enough to tinker with today's electronically controlled, networked, and over-moduled rolling Tupperware of the later '00's. The quagmire of electronics-related driveability issues would take ALL the fun right out of it. Eff that ... with a BAT!! (n)

Today, if you want to tinker and enjoy some of it, buy something built prior to the 2007 model year. If you want to tinker and not get pissed off, swear, or throw tools at all, get something built prior to 1995. If you want simplicity in everything, buy pre-1973.

Even as late as the early 1990's you could still take apart a power window switch, clean it up, lubricate it, adjust the tension to your liking, and have it working better than new after 3-4 decades of constant use. Every electrical problem I've had in my Cummins-powered '93 Ram W250 LE was fixed by doing just this. No parts needed!

With enough money you can make ANYTHING as fast as you want, and handle & stop as great as you want.

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My suggestion would be for Jstarks11 to Google CAN bus. No, they are not a Canadian company that transports people to work at the Jefferson Detroit plant where Durangos are being built. I Googled articles on CAN bus and found the stuff very hard to understand how it operates. Kudos to guys like Stoopalina and others that completely understand it and how it works. I just know that CAN bus pretty much controls and operates all functions on your vehicle now. And it’s already obsolete and a more complicated system is being used because so much more is needed for electric vehicles. Now I have to get back to my project of dropping a 225 slant six in my Hellcat Durango because it’s too much power for me. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
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