Who's oil should I use in this vehicle? I see 0w20 Valvoline and Mobile 1 are the best prices
2022 Durango R/T 5.7-Engine oil manufactuar
dctaz37
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I think it is like Norge said, but as I understand Fiat owned Magneti Marelli until they sold it off in 2019. Stellantis Media - FCA Completes Sale of Magneti Marelli to Calsonic Kansei
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That used to be the case but they've had the approvals back for awhile now
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I actually switched over to 0w30 Pennzoil Euro L oil, meets much tougher standards and quite popular on the bobistheoilguy forums. been running it for over a year now and definitely quieter on this oil vs 0w20. Im out of warranty now so dont care that its not the right weight, I prefer the extra viscosity and protection
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Uhm, I threw up at the part where the new oil is dirty and you don't want dirty oil going through the system before getting filtered.
What is wrong with the world? people are using every freaking stupid gimmick to make money on social media.
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If possible, pre-load it with oil, period. My thoughts are, if the filter is low such as on the HEMI, you don't want to have your oil pump fight air cavitation.
What is the anti drain back valve for is a question they need to ask themselves in that video.
Ironically I had just seen this video a week ago that tried to scientificly go through examining the pre-fill oil filter topic:
My maintenance background was clear to only pre-fill filters maintenance manuals/technical data stated required pre-filling. As he mentions in the video, some manufacturers will even specify not to pre-fill. Another topic from my perspective of you do you as an owner.
My maintenance background was clear to only pre-fill filters maintenance manuals/technical data stated required pre-filling. As he mentions in the video, some manufacturers will even specify not to pre-fill. Another topic from my perspective of you do you as an owner.
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What MFG's specify not to prefill the oil filter?
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This reminds me when some Viper owners started to add electric preoiler systems which would activate prior to starting the engine.
CAT is one, granted it's for their C13 / C15 Class 8 on-highway semi truck engines, lol.
I get their reasoning, that the only way to ensure potential contamination from handling the oil/container is to ensure that it only enters the oil filter through the outer holes, as the center large hole is the oil feeding after being filtered. And many maintenance centers working those types of engines use 50 gal. drums and facilities/locations that may have more potential for contamination introduction during handling. I'm not saying CAT is right or wrong either, lol.
Also, prefiling a filter has zero effect on almost all engines (that I know of) to prevent pump cavitation. This is because the oil pump is purposely before the filter for feeding oil to the oil filter, not pulling oil from. Since pump cavitation is caused by not enough pressure on the suction side of the pump (known as insufficient NPSHA - Net Positive Suction Head Available), prefiling the oil filter on the pressure out side of the pump doesn't do anything for the NPSHA. There are two reasons the filter is after the oil pump, first is so that any oil pump failure debris is caught as much as possible by the oil filter, and second is to more effectively maintain pressure, especially the needed pressure to activate the bypass valve if needed.
Again, not trying to argue either way on if anyone should prefill or not, and wouldn't tell anyone they should or shouldn't. Just there's a LOT of preconceptions, myths, etc. I'm all about an owner doing what they prefer/feel more comfortable with.
EDIT: That first video by The Motor Oil Geek, they blew their whole point of the test at 2:55 time mark, when they said they were going to test oil AFTER it contacted all the engine parts and pull the sample from the sump after the prime to compare against oil straight out of the bottle. I don't disagree with the point they're trying to make, but to accurately test it they would have to take oil directly after being filtered, not the oil after it's contacted all those parts and in the sump waiting to get pulled to go to the filter. Even if the engine's never been ran, there's particulate contamination from handling during the build. It would be great to see that test performed correctly to show particulates straight out of bottle vs out of the bottle and through the filter. Again, not saying should or shouldn't prefill the oil filter. But lots inaccurate tests and presumptions on both sides of the argument.
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That is some serious research you did there and seems to be a very particular brand and particular engine class.
I can totally see that
and ironically not any research (other than finding a CAT manual reference and a quick search to recall the NPSH acronym/term), just silly things I've picked up along my journey. I come from an extended family of gearheads and a cousin had his own truck (and eventually trucks/company) and has always been a die hard no prefill, he dealt with CAT engines and would refer to their maintenance guidance, so I figured any CAT manual would likely have it. I actually never even knew CAT's reason was for potential contamination until I saw that, lol.The cavitation thing was something I learned during training for aircraft maintenance. Those aircraft hydraulic system had a mandate to fill the filters with fluid and a reason was because some of the filters are on the suction side of the pumps as well, since preventing damage to the pump is a flight safety factor. At the time, I was considering taking engineering classes, so I did research what caused pump cavitation. So I did actually research, about 28 years ago or so, lol. I can remember nonsense like this, but I struggle to remember names.
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Still makes no sense to me. There is as much or more of a chance that contaminated oil goes into the crankcase during the fill. I could imagine what funnels look like or fill nozzles or when the 55 gallon drum gets replaced and the fill top has to be put on. But whatever floats CAT's boat and FWIW, if I was a CAT mechanic I would follow their lead but not because I believed but because the mfg says so.
Hyundai Tuscon gets 0w20. Kinda light in my book.Not to linger on this topic but just found out that Toyota mandates 0W-8 on their new Corrola’s. Used to be 0W-16. I guess you can use some mazzola cooking oil if you need to top it off. Lol
What oil filter do you recommend for 5.7
Just don't buy the cheapest thing on the shelf. Any mid-range to higher-end filter from a reputable manufacturer is fine. Mobil 1, Purolator, Fram, Bosch, Wix, all make good products. Again, just don't buy the cheapest $3 oil filter. The Mopar filter for the 5.7 is also totally fine and usually available at a decent price online.
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