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Greetings, @RedneckLEO

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Hannah
Dodge Cares
Blower motor just been replaced 3 months ago on my 2019 Dodge Durango GT miles 100,000
 
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Diamond
Dodge Cares
 
Take it back to the dealer. They are supposed to warranty replacement parts for 12 months or 12K miles. And hopefully they used a factory part. You might also have a burned connector at the fan motor.
 
I have the same burn mark on my fuse, but the fuse itself tests ok. I have switched the relay with another in the box and it works. When I open the door, sometimes the screen shows the dodge logo right away. When it does that the blower works. If I do not see this screen until after I start the car, the blower does not work and I have to do the relay swap. Still trying to nail down the exact cause. When I had it into the shop they told me there was a bad ground and I may have to replace the whole computer unit at a horrible price. Getting closer, but have not found a permanent solution. I have 2 new relays coming Friday, going to see if they might fix the problem.
 
If this is always related to the blower then have you replaced it? That could be what's pulling the current that is overheating the fuse terminals.
 
Nope, motor works. shop said resistor is OK. They said they had a bad ground and in their exp if the issue of random cutouts comes back it is most likely the head unit that controls almost everything. Have noticed that when the door is opened and the head unit boots before I even start the car, the problem is not there. If the head unit does not boot until after I start the car the blower will not come on. I shut the engine off and swap solenoids and poof, I have a blower again. going to try and reset the BCU and see if the issue clears.
 
My 2014 Durango SXT V6 3.6 is currently in the shop (April 2025) for a front A/C issue—it randomly stops blowing. The issue started late summer 2024. Pulling the green 40A fuse under the hood helped a few times but didn’t last. I finally gave up this week and went in, paid $80 for a diagnostic, and the mechanic recommended replacing the 40A fuse, relay, resistor, badly clogged cabin filter, and blower motor—OEM parts only. I picked it up on Day 4 and the shop was confident it was fixed… but an hour later the A/C stopped blowing again, so I took it right back. It’ll end up being a total of 7 days at the shop. They found a short under the fusebox in the harness that plugs into it. I went to the junkyard, bought a fusebox, and they’ll be fixing the shorted wire in the harness and reinstalling the fusebox. All of this cost me $850 (labor included). I still don’t know what caused all of this, but I’m crossing my fingers that we’re finally at the finish line. Can someone please tell me what caused all of this? Because without fixing the short and replacing the fusebox, you’ll keep running in circles burning out the resistor—until you change the fusebox and fix the short. But what caused the short to begin with?
 
I just had to have my TIPM replaced along with fan and resistor. Apparently if the fan gets a dead spot in the motor it draws a lot of current to overcome that. So, if you let it go, or perhaps you do not even realize this is happening it melts the bottom side of the TIMP. Removing and replacing the fuse or the relay will get it started again, but only for a while and then it fails again when the circuit heats up. My mechanic found a used TIPM and pulled a used connector out of the salvage yard. Cost me around $800. Pretty good when a new Timp is $1300 plus labor.
 
I have a 2017 GT with 68K. A couple weeks ago we were backing out the driveway to go out to dinner and noticed that the front AC was not blowing at all, didn't matter if I adjusted the fan speed or temp, the blower motor wasn't on at all. The rear was blowing and working as it should. 400-500' down the road it started working. After dinner we got in and the AC was working just fine, the next couple days it was working just fine as well. The wife texted me last week and said it wasn't working again, I did a quick search and find that some others had this same issue and if they tapped on the dash the fan would start working. So I told her to open the glove box and slam it closed. She did and the fan started working. I read that the newer DD's don't have blower motor resistors but instead have a blower resistor module. Could this be the issue? Anybody else ever have a similar issue? If so, what was the fix. I haven't had a chance to look at it but will try to get to it today after work.

Thanks

Wayne
It's gonna be your fuse box the solder has broken of the joint wiggle your front blower motor fuse or relay if that is it be on the lookout for your fuel pump being next ( solder joint break )
 
It's the main blower motor wire inside the pin connector underneath the tipm unit itself. It's the largest of all 3 or 4 clips. The actual pin connector on the end inside the connector that attaches itself to the fuse posts gets hot the arcs and melts the plastic. All we used to do back in the day when I was at Dodge was just solder the wire directly to the fuse post on the underside of the tipm
Man..... lifesaver dude!!!!! Appreciate that info. Went right to where you said and vwalahhh!!!!! Today's 87 degrees in a black on black durango R/T!!!! Thank you!!!!!!!
 
I replaced the fuse. Mine tested good as well but they deform when they get hot and you can’t tell. Eventually the fuse deformed again. I have since manually ever so slightly bent the fan prongs where they connect to the TIPM. Haven’t had an issue in months.
Hey, I was wondering how this fix has held up?
 
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