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2018 Durango GT - Pentastar 3.6 failed rockers + damaged camshaft, seeking advice

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camshaft pentastar rocker arm
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4.2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  kmich2000  
A
#1 ·
Hello,

I have a 2018 Durango GT with ~120k. It's been a great vehicle, but I underestimated/failed to research the common ticking problem on the v6 pentastar that started a while back. I've been getting misfires now as it's escalated. Just had it serviced and in diagnosing the misfire replaced ignition components, etc. Eventually, they looked at the camshaft and found the rocker arms have failed and pretty significantly ground down some lobes on the shaft.

We discussed the repair and eventually the shop recommended that it wouldn't be worth replacing these components at such a high cost with the risk of that amount of metal now floating in the engine. Having looked further into on youtube, many seem to find the replacing of camshaft and components to be a logical and effective fix. Anecdotally, the shop mentioned they had a 2018 where they did the repair and the engine failed 6 months later... so that was a prominent force in the conversation. Their best solution was a new warrantied engine, which may take up to a year to receive with 1300 requests in queue ahead of us and $10k price tag. 🤢

Within this group, I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on what do here? I don't know if the vehicle has any value in its current state - how do you sell/trade a vehicle like this? Youtube says its about a $2500 repair. Is it right to expect the metal shavings have gotten through the oil filter to the extent to demand a new engine, or just driving it until it seizes? Or should I do the repair? I wouldn't mind looking at a new R/T, but how do you trade-in or what hit do you take with this disclosure?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
#2 ·
Hello Andrew:
Welcome to DDN, and sorry to hear of your situation. Things like this are a tough pill to swallow, but you now know that any internal metallic clicking/clacking/tapping/knocking should be looked into sooner than later.

Was the $2500 figure you mentioned a repair quote from a shop? If so, were they quoting oem parts?
We have had quite a few 3.6L owners who have had or done the repair with good results.
Trying to sell or trade a vehicle in your Durangos current condition will not be a good move IMO, as the buyer goes into it knowing they may have to come up with a new(er) engine at significant expense.

If I were in your shoes, and could get it back on the road for $2500 with oem parts, I think I'd do it.

Don
 
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A
#3 ·
Don Fox said:
Hello Andrew:
Welcome to DDN, and sorry to hear of your situation. Things like this are a tough pill to swallow, but you now know that any internal metallic clicking/clacking/tapping/knocking should be looked into sooner than later.

Was the $2500 figure you mentioned a repair quote from a shop? If so, were they quoting oem parts?
We have had quite a few 3.6L owners who have had or done the repair with good results.
Trying to sell or trade a vehicle in your Durangos current condition will not be a good move IMO, as the buyer goes into it knowing they may have to come up with a new(er) engine at significant expense.

If I were in your shoes, and could get it back on the road for $2500 with oem parts, I think I'd do it.

Don
Click to expand...
You're right, now I know. 😌

Thanks for the quick feedback. I believe they quoted around $3-$3500 when they had it, but was seeing the lesser number online - may be location. It seems a lot of these parts might be hard to find currently. Would it be better to bring it to the dealership to get this all fleshed out?

My initial response in the context of the engine that subsequently failed was to drive it until it dies or trade it in with disclosure and get clear of any anxious future about what may come. Is the engine metal anxiety something worthy of all-or-nothing thinking?

I'm inclined to get it fixed now that I've gained a little more background in the past couple days, but just trying to assess all my options. I'm curious on how that would go if I had the repair done and then traded it in? There's no perfect option, each has a cost and concern, so looking for more informed opinions. ☺

Thanks again!
 
#5 · (Edited)
Hi Andrew:
Since there is no warranty involved, if you choose to have the repairs made, I would get at least 3 quotes and make sure you specify they use oem parts. I felt that your $2500 figure was low. Possibly it was only a repair on one bank (not recommended), or in that case the cams were not damaged.

A dealer will offer you the best warranty, 2yr/24k miles, but they will also be the most expensive. 120k is in the right area for this issue to rear it's ugly head. Some friends of ours had the issue on their '15 Jeep Grand Cherokee around 112k. We were headed to dinner one night (they were driving) and as soon as the engine fired up, I knew they had an issue.

The repair was done at a local dealer for $3500 ish. I think they caught it early enough that only 1 cam had to be changed.

Don
 
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#6 ·
I recently replaced the passenger side intake cam on my 2017 GT. Was not terribly difficult and cost way less than the dealership wanted to charge.

www.dodgedurango.net

Engine rattle....bad high/low lift rocker or cam...

Update: To spare folks reading the entire thread, the problem was the high lift lobe on cyl #5 was wiped. Over the weekend I was accelerating off the line hard with my 2017 DDGT and noticed a rattle/light rapid knocking. I thought it was rod knock but to me it seems like maybe valvetrain...
www.dodgedurango.net www.dodgedurango.net
 
#8 ·
It depends on which cam lobe was wiped (sounds like OP had an exhaust or low lift cam failure). The high lift intake cam lobe wear is minimal compared to exhaust or low lift lobes. Checking the oil filter and tone rings on the cam (tend to catch a lot of metallic debris) along with the cam bears will give a good indication on the severity of contamination. On the V8s, FCA recommended checking the OCV screen and if there was any sign of metallic debris the motor is to be replaced. Ever since I replaced my intake cam, rockers and lash adjusters I have been running a zinc additive...so far so good.
 
#11 ·
Duh-rango said:
On the V8s, FCA recommended checking the OCV screen, and if there was any sign of metallic debris, the motor is to be replaced. Ever since I replaced my intake cam, rockers, and lash adjusters, I have been running a zinc additive...so far, so good.
Click to expand...
Don, please educate me on what an "OCV screen" is and where to find and inspect it.

Thanks

Preben
 
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#13 ·
Gents:
I believe the OCV or Oil Control Valve is the item in question. From what I've seen, it's located under the intake manifold near the front of the engine.

This is the description I found:

"The oil control valve is an actuator (solenoid) which is controlled by the engine's ECU (Electronic Control Unit) to guide the VVT systems in advancing or retarding the valves' timing by altering the camshaft angle position in correlation to the engine crankshaft. "

Don
 
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K
#14 ·
FYI re a class action on the V6 engine
Berger Montague co-counsel serve as putative class counsel on behalf of a proposed class of owners and lessees of 2014 or newer Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, or RAM-branded vehicles equipped with a 3.6L Pentastar V6 engines, alleging that the engines in these vehicles have defective valve train systems which cause the engines to premature fail.
Other symptoms of the defective valve train system include noticeable ticking noises from the engine, bucking, surging, lurching, and loss of power, leaving consumers needing to replace valve train components or their engines well before the useful life of these components would be expected.
 
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