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KP11520

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So far Stock. In the 130s K miles now.
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50 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
The plastic end that attaches to the ball on the Throttle Body snapped so I ordered a new Cable assembly.

I removed the gas pedal and the cable from the arm. The Service Manual has a picture that is not what I have in my truck on how to pull the cable out through the firewall....

How do I disassemble this inside part to be able to pull out the cable? (Pic below)

Can anybody help get me through this next step? Thanks!

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hey Tom!

Thank you once again for for being the sole savior!!!

So since the shop manual depicts a round fitting, I was thinking the rectangle was some sort of metal cover (rust on bottom) and I used needle nose vise grips and squeezed and pulled. FRUSTRATING!!

Then I went to the engine side and Yanked it out including the NON COVER which was part of the cable assembly! LOL Great Diagram Chrysler!.... It's finally swapped out and now starts at 3K RPMs! Don't see any adjustment play anywhere.

Just Shoot ME!

This would go smoother with two bodies me thinks! One squeezing the bushing while the other pulls the cable assembly from the engine side. Thankfully the Vise Grips crushed the tabs in for success when pulling from the outside!

Back to the 3K idle.....

Disconnected the battery and will reconnect in 30 minutes. Still getting tortured as I HOPEFULLY approach the finish line for my original stalling problem! OUCH!

Thanks again Tom!
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Still 3K idle after battery Reconnect!

It's raining and cold and ENOUGH for today!

Maybe I'll burn it tomorrow! (I still have fire and theft insurance.....:mad:)
 
While yanking on the cable did it pull hard on the connection at the throttle body?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys!

The cable was disconnected from the throttle body as the plastic connector broke when I took it off to clean the throttle body and replace the three sensors because I was having an intermittent stalling problem, and sometimes the fuel pump would wind up when the key was turned and other times quiet. Read that any of the three sensors failing could cause the PCM to act like it failed. Hence the new cable. It was perfect when I reinstalled it and the engine idled perfectly. But the throttle cable wouldn't stay on the throttle Body ball.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
I'd disconnect the cable at the TB, make sure the butterfly is closed, and see what happens.
BINGO... We have a Winner Here!
Brand New ATP Y-1348 Accelerator Cable is manufactured WRONG!

When the new cable is connected to the Throttle Body lever ball fully, the throttle p[late stays almost 1/4" lower than when Not Connected... See pics below.

And the cause of that is at the pedal end of the cable with where THEY mounted the cable stop on the cable and where it bottoms out into the sheathing/bushing! Doesn't matter if the pedal end is connected or not. See the stop preventing the cable letting the Throttle Body close fully.
NOT CONNECTED to Throttle Body
See Pics at Bottom in New Post
 
Discussion starter · #10 · (Edited)
ATP Y-1348 NOT CONNECTED to Throttle Body
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ATP Y-1348 Connected to throttle body with Pedal end UNCONNECTED and in view. Stop Ball Bottomed Out.
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ATP Y-1348 on Top, OEM on Bottom. Notice the placement difference of the stop ball.
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They couldn't just copy the OEM? Someone isn't a real engineer.
 
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