Everyone is going to have their own opinion when it comes to tires. What tire dealers can get for you also depends on what neck of the woods you live in. I have always liked the way Michelin's rode (noise/ handling), but you will NEVER get the mileage warranty out of them even with weekly air pressure checks, rotations every 5k miles, alignments with every rotation, and the occasional balance whenever a vibration popped up. When the dreaded Pirelli tires were due on mine at around 25k miles, I put on the Toyo Proxes STIII's because why pay extra for run-flats when we have a spare??? They seem to be holding up well, although they are directional. I would not go with anything under a "V" rating so you don't mess with brake / handling characteristics. A lower rating is going to have a softer sidewall which will increase your body roll AND your stopping distances. The other side effect is that if you get a good cross breeze with softer tires, your vehicle is going to be more likely to be moved. Hope this helps everyone/ someone. If you want to run optional tire sizes, make sure you do research- that 285/45R20 is going to throw off your speedometer/ odometer because it has a different diameter. By diameter the optional tire sizes (be aware there may not be tires made in these sizes) would be 275/55r20, 285/50r20, 305/40R20, 315/35R20. Also look at the recommended rim width for these tires because our rims are 10" wide and these may be too narrow or too wide to fit. These sizes are based on my extensive tire classes I had to take in the 90's and early 2000's and are only for basic information with the rule of thumb if you wanted thicker tires (fill the body gap), the tire had to be more narrow to keep the diameter in check. Just as if you wanted wider tires, you have to give up some sidewall height to do it properly.