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Burnt TIPM wire harness comnector

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cellington316

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2014 Dodge Durango Citadel 5.7L HEMI
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46 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I'd been having intermittent issues with my front blower motor. I finally got time and knowledge to check my TIPM connector and see that burnt. When I first removed the fuse when I started having the issue I had to destroy the fuse because it was really stuck in there as if it had burnt. I've attached a photo.

What do you think the cost is for doing a repair for this? And does any mechanic have the capability of doing this? Lastly do you think this could result in me needing to replace the TIPM?
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Most people don't have the equipment or knowledge to change oil these days. However if one looks at the wiring diagram for the HVAC system, as long as the circuit board traces are not damaged on the TIPM it should be fine. What I wonder is why the 40 amp fuse did not blow? Although with that high of an amperage if the connection was slightly corroded it would heat up and cause the damage seen to the connector. Screen shot of the TIPM would be nice to see how bad the pin is burned.
Image
 
#6 ·
Another opportunity to install an external relay and fuse that can be easily changed, has higher current capability, and is more reliable. Also takes stress of the TIPM. Just make sure your logic is correct.
 
#7 ·
cellington316 said:
So I'd been having intermittent issues with my front blower motor. I finally got time and knowledge to check my TIPM connector and see that burnt. When I first removed the fuse when I started having the issue I had to destroy the fuse because it was really stuck in there as if it had burnt. I've attached a photo.

What do you think the cost is for doing a repair for this? And does any mechanic have the capability of doing this? Lastly do you think this could result in me needing to replace the TIPM?
Click to expand...
Hello were you able to get this fix im having same problem
 
#8 ·
Duh-rango said:
Most people don't have the equipment or knowledge to change oil these days. However if one looks at the wiring diagram for the HVAC system, as long as the circuit board traces are not damaged on the TIPM it should be fine. What I wonder is why the 40 amp fuse did not blow? Although with that high of an amperage if the connection was slightly corroded it would heat up and cause the damage seen to the connector. Screen shot of the TIPM would be nice to see how bad the pin is burned.
View attachment 134075
Click to expand...
Definitely. Corrosion or if the spring finger contacts get damaged or spread open to where there is poor contact, arching will occur and melt the plastic on the fuse and TIPM socket. Sometimes the heat is not enough to blow the fuse.

Even if the TIPM socket, terminals, or traces are burnt on the power delivery traces, you can have an external fuse and relay installed that will be better.
 
#9 ·
Been dealing with the same issue on my 2015. Blower was intermittent and replaced the fuse. Still had issues. Pulled the tipm and saw it’s melted in the same location on the harness plug. Would love to hear if/how you resolved this. Did you replace the harness plug yourself?
We purchased the truck last year with an extended warranty, hoping this is covered.
 
#10 ·
Hi there, having the same problem on my 2014 Dodge Durango my ac just the front vents no air comes out already changed blower motor,resistor, cabin filter and fuses and relays
When I turn on car sometimes the ac will work but most of the times it won’t when it doesn’t I have to trip the blower motor relay to make it work but I have to do it every time I turn on car again please help thank you
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Due to the nature of the issue being out of my wheelhouse, I am still looking to get it into the dealer. A few things took over me being able to take it into the dealer. There are a few other issues with the car that I am considering having fixed in the same visit including a leaking sunroof. I'll let you guys know what happens as I plan to get it fixed before it gets cold. Wife and 4 kids won't like a car that won't heat up :)
 
#12 ·
Duh-rango said:
Most people don't have the equipment or knowledge to change oil these days. However if one looks at the wiring diagram for the HVAC system, as long as the circuit board traces are not damaged on the TIPM it should be fine. What I wonder is why the 40 amp fuse did not blow? Although with that high of an amperage if the connection was slightly corroded it would heat up and cause the damage seen to the connector. Screen shot of the TIPM would be nice to see how bad the pin is burned.
Click to expand...
Would it be crazy if the wiring harness had bad terminal crimps on the blower connector?
 
#13 ·
Enthusiast said:
Would it be crazy if the wiring harness had bad terminal crimps on the blower connector?
Click to expand...
So I forget if it was my liberty or WJ JGC that had that issue. IIRC there was a TSB that stated to check the blower fan connector for signs of damage and to replace it. Come to think of it I think it was my liberty because I remember replacing the resistor block for the blower.
 
#14 ·
Threw a Hail Mary and pulled the TIPM, soaked the burnt harness with QD contact cleaner as well as the TIPM where the burnt harness plugged into and the fuse/fuse location, hit the contacts with a little dielectric grease after fully drying, reassembled and reconnected the battery and it’s been functioning fine the last two days.

Crossing fingers it lasts. If not I’ll take it to the dealer and use the aftermarket warranty to get the harness replaced.
 
#15 ·
contacts are not meant to have dielectric grease applied to them.
Get a rebuilt TIPM and install it before yours catches fire and destrys your hardness
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
Front blower motor
Leaking sunroof
Water in rear led track light
Trunk strut weakening/stud break

I guess every car has their handful of common issues
 
#20 ·
Water in rear LED trunk light:

I carefully placed "drain passages" (sounds better than drilled holes) that were small and not noticeable on the bottom edge, away from the LED electronics to immediately drain the water where gravity likes to take it. Then I removed the trunk light to remove the moisture, and sealed it with clear silicone caulking.

No more problems for two years, including hurricane winds with rain, and car washes. The car wash spins fiber material strips into a natural funnel shape near the license plate into the crack between the trunk lid and light. My Durango eats a small piece of the strip in that crack each time. This is easily removed. However, I am concerned one day she will bite off more than she can chew and the car wash will win :LOL:.

I guess if I put a piece of duct tape temporarily on the crack this would stop the problem. Of course this is not as bad as a front or rear blower problem.
 
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