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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I can tell you from experience having replaced more than a few t-stats on my '06 Hemi Daytona that I have run into a wide variety of varying quality issues, regardless of manufacturer or country of origin. Especially true with the lower temp 180s. What once was a fairly simple device that used to be pretty much replace it and forget it for a while now sometimes is a POS out-of-the-box, to lasting maybe a few days or a few months before I have seen failures.

That being said, having had to purge air on the 5.7 countless times, what I do with the bleed port is to screw in a 1/4" barbed fitting, and using a 6 ft. length of hosing I attach one end to the barbed fitting and drop the other into a clean empty bucket in front of my vehicle. I keep a bolt in the end of the tube as the engine warms up and the t-stat opens as I'm pouring in the appropriate coolant using the burp funnel set attached to my coolant bottle. When up to temp, wearing gloves, I CAREFULLY pull out the bolt at the end of the tube using a pliers and begin watching for any trapped air being purged as I continue to top off the funnel. When I'm satisfied I see no more air bubbles, I shut off the engine and carefully plug the hose end again with the bolt. When the engine has cooled down, I removed the barbed fitting and replace the plug, then top off the coolant bottle and re-check the next morning.
I keep reading and hearing that it can be pretty hard to get all the air pockets out so we're going to try to flush the coolant one more time and try the vacuum method mentioned earlier to avoid air pockets. Having the temp hanging out on that white line half way up is a little concerning to me as it leaves little room to decide if the durango is just running a little warm to the engine overheating so if I can get it to run cooler that would be awesome.
 
I have had my cooling system apart in my '14 Limited V6 AWD a couple of times now and never had an issue purging the air out of the system. May sound like a silly question, but do you know for sure that the coolant temp sensor has not gone bad? Can you use a infrared temperature gun on say the coolant cove rover tube by the water pump, just to make sure the coolant is actually too warm?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I have had my cooling system apart in my '14 Limited V6 AWD a couple of times now and never had an issue purging the air out of the system. May sound like a silly question, but do you know for sure that the coolant temp sensor has not gone bad? Can you use a infrared temperature gun on say the coolant cove rover tube by the water pump, just to make sure the coolant is actually too warm?
Good idea we may try that. Have you done that? If you have, what temps were you reading?
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
So it's been a few days. We emptied the coolant one more time and used a vacuum to put coolant back in then used a funnel to burp the system. Temp gauge shows a lower temp most of the time (below the white line) but it does want to climb when going up hills then comes back down. Curious if the new thermostat is sticking some.
 
Matt:
Sounds like you are making progress. It's normal for the temp gauge to rise a bit on a long uphill grade, as the engine is working harder.

Don
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Matt:
Sounds like you are making progress. It's normal for the temp gauge to rise a bit on a long uphill grade, as the engine is working harder.

Don
True, though if it's steep and long enough it'll get up on the white line and even go just over it. I'm probably going to let it go for a bit so long as it keeps cool and just keep a watch on it if I have to go on a lot of steep hills.
 
BY white line, you mean the half way mark? Do you have an option on the DIC (driver info screen) to monitor engine temp? If so, I'd select that, and monitor temps that way.

Don
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
BY white line, you mean the half way mark? Do you have an option on the DIC (driver info screen) to monitor engine temp? If so, I'd select that, and monitor temps that way.

Don
Yes the white line half way up the gauge. And I wish there was a screen for the coolant temp, all I have is transmission temp, oil temp, oil pressure and a couple other things not related to the engine.
 
Ok:
My '14 Charger R/T has both the gauge, and the DIC option. I'll never understand why such an important parameter would not be included..........

Don
 
So as a benchmark, here are the temps I am seeing on my 17 GT during a 1 hour trip of mostly highway miles. The trans seems to take forever to hit temp and I think it is because I run the PPE trans pan. Although I will say my coolant and oil temps rarely hit above 200F with ambient in the 50F range. The engine has +90kmiles and the thermostat is original (well as far as I can tell as I am the 2nd owner and did not see any repairs listed for the cooling system). My plan is to do this a couple of times a year at different ambient temps to see how hot these pentastars get. Seems to behave differently than my challenger RT manual but then again my RT is not stock.
Image
 
Here's what's happening. Tuesday night noticed lots of coolant under the Durango. Take it to my mechanic Wednesday they tell me the radiator was coming apart at the seams and needs to be replaced. Thursday I pick up the Durango with new radiator and everything seemed fine (didn't have to drive far). Friday notice Durango overheating on our way to visit family about 20ish minutes away, this was after driving home from work. Replaced the thermostat Saturday, didn't fix it. Sunday replaced the water pump, didn't seem to fix it. What else should we look at?

Durango is a 2014 Limited with the V6, 153,000 miles. No tow package and no modifications. Included image of temp gauge for reference, it has gone a little higher. View attachment 123736
With engine started at cold start take radiator cap of if you see the coolant starting to rise after you start it you have a blown head gasket and it will only get worse repair the gasket DO NOT ATTEMPT TO PUT IN ANY HEADGASKET STOPLEAK !!!
 
Sound like maybe you have air still entrapped in the system. Couple of folks here had their systems open only to experience overheating. The FSM gives a fill procedure (not very detailed) that uses a vacuum type tool. If you have a blown head gasket you would probably see more steam come out the exhaust and possibly have one or more spark plugs that look squeaky clean as a result.

 
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