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Now owner of 02 Durango sxt 4x4 with all its issues help 1000 at shop still have lot of small issues

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Memphissober

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 Dodge Durango 4x4 had spongey breaks pads and shoes are with in standards from what shop says. Has lifter tick on passenger side head. AC lines are warm on one cold on other but doesn't seem to be making it in the cab, but the blower has a bad connection to harness on only one lead. Any advice would be great. I've read through a lot of the threads and one consistently present line I was reading was post my own thread to better help my issues.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Lifter tick may be exhaust manifold gasket.
What engine in yours
Spongey brakes may be hardware issue on caliper ( bolts that hold calipers to spindle rusted and calipers not sliding on them like they should)
I just had this on my 96 Dakota
Or could be as simple as self adjusters on rear drum brakes well, aren't adjusting
I bought an 03 about 6-7 months ago, I had a few issues with it when I first got it to work thru, (all minor)
only thing it went to a shop for (and reluctantly at that) was mounting and balancing the new tires, I took care of the rest of them myself.
Oh yeah I did have to send it out for a windshield. The fact they put in a Chinese windshield from some outfit I have never heard of did piss me off.

Have 2 more issues to go when time allows, I have to pull the driver's side exhaust manifold and extract the busted bolts/studs out of the head.
Then there's the check engine light for the "small evap leak" I'm not worried about but have been working towards getting rid of...
I've found (and replaced ) a few soft hoses and replaced the gas cap so far, it doesn't effect the way it runs one iota so it's low on priority list. (And I don't have to get it smogged here so not worried about that)

My ac didn't work, I recharged it.
My 4wd didn't work, I replaced the actuator motor
Driver window fell in the door, I replaced the window regulator
Brakes started pulsating shortly after I got it, I did the front brakes
At 127k miles I did what appeared to be the first tune up and spark plug change since new.
None of this was a major job
The PO had recently done the trans serviced and replaced the ball joints before they sold it

So far it's been real good to us, put around 8000 miles on it so far and we've been all over the place with it...now has 135k on it, nowhere near the 314k that's on my 01 that I still have
 
#3 ·
dodge trucker said:
Then there's the check engine light for the "small evap leak" I'm not worried about but have been working towards getting rid of...
I've found (and replaced ) a few soft hoses and replaced the gas cap so far, it doesn't effect the way it runs one iota so it's low on priority list. (And I don't have to get it smogged here so not worried about that)
Click to expand...
I fixed mine by replacing both solenoids and the filter on my 2005. I did also install a brand new gasket which was only available at the dealer. That single gasket was $10. Total cost was only about $80.

Also, with all older vehicles, don't forget to flush your brakes. You will be surprised at how much better they work after.
 
#4 ·
I have a 2002 Dodge Durango 4x4 had spongey breaks pads and shoes are with in standards from what shop says.
- Have the vacuum line on your booster checked and have the entire brake system flushed with fresh fluid.

Has lifter tick on passenger side head.
-Its either the manifold leaking or you need a valve adjustment.

AC lines are warm on one cold on other but doesn't seem to be making it in the cab, but the blower has a bad connection to harness on only one lead.
-AC diagnosis is not for the inexperienced. Have your guy put a gauge manifold on both ports to see how it is functioning. Note that if there is any issue in the dash, that is a very costly repair due to the labor to take the dash out.
 
#5 ·
There's more to brake system than "pads and shoes within standards".
Sticking hardware plays a huge part.
Every time I do a brake job (especially disc) if the caliper attachment bracket is also removable I put it in my blasting cabinet and clean all the built up crap out especially in the corners where the pads ride on their ends.and use some sort of silicone based brake lube (usually sil glyde) in those areas as I reassemble. And make sure the flange where the back of the rotor sits is clean. I usually use some anti seize here mainly in the corner that forms between the flat part and the hub portion that centers the wheel and the rotor.
 
#6 ·
dodge trucker said:
There's more to brake system than "pads and shoes within standards".
Sticking hardware plays a huge part.
Every time I do a brake job (especially disc) if the caliper attachment bracket is also removable I put it in my blasting cabinet and clean all the built up crap out especially in the corners where the pads ride on their ends.and use some sort of silicone based brake lube (usually sil glyde) in those areas as I reassemble. And make sure the flange where the back of the rotor sits is clean. I usually use some anti seize here mainly in the corner that forms between the flat part and the hub portion that centers the wheel and the rotor.
Click to expand...
The guys at the parts store always give me gruff for using a grease needle for brake jobs. Every couple of years, I pull the pins out, clean them, and regrease. Otherwise, I just inject some grease into the boots to keep them lubricated. After owning a class C motorhome, I realized how beneficial it is to flush the brake fluid. I don't think it was ever done since 1990. After flushing the brake fluid, that 10k# rig feels like it can do brake stands and I no longer get cramps in my calf during rush hour traffic.

So many people neglect basic maintenance on brakes and suspension parts and it makes the vehicle ride like crap. On my 2005 DD, I have had to replace every suspension component because it was all worn. Now, it rides almost as smooth as new.
 
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