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Suspension/Steering Service Questions

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
UPDATE:
Successfully removed the stabilizer bar from the vehicle. Attempting to remove the Stabilizer Link but stuck with frozen bottom nuts that tighten to the lower control arm. Have tried freeze off, rust dissolver + steel brush to remove rust on bolt threads, removing by wrench+pipe (for leverage), and removing using hydraulic impact tool. The lower nuts of the stabilizer link will not budge. The top nut on the passenger size failed by torque and i noticed that the stabilizer link rod is seriously rusted - glad I am replacing them. I was able to remove the upper nut on the driver's side though.

Maybe heat the lower nuts of the stabilizer links tomorrow and try to remove it again? Or just cut it off with a grinder just behind the ball joint in front of the lower control arm or just the nut itself partially so it will loosen out?

Would welcome any suggestions. Thanks!

Here are some images of the stabilizer link:

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Will install these bad boys from Mevotech once the rusted ones are removed:

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#23 ·
Heat will crack them. Heat one part only.

Or just cut them off. It is very satisfying.

Yeah I reckon it might have been about time to change them.

Are those new ones the right size for the hole in your sway bar, I wonder? I bought just those blue bushings once and found they were too small for the sway bar link that my car uses.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
wannaeatyourbrains said:
Heat will crack them. Heat one part only.

Or just cut them off. It is very satisfying.

Yeah I reckon it might have been about time to change them.

Are those new ones the right size for the hole in your sway bar, I wonder? I bought just those blue bushings once and found they were too small for the sway bar link that my car uses.
Click to expand...
It looks like the same size. Will find out tomorrow.
I will try a little bit of heat on the nut and see if it will budge.

Also, on the sway bar bushings, what I have on them is the original OEM bushings. It has no slit - how did they get those bushings on there? The ends are a larger diameter and the bushings wont travel on the bend on either side! I bought Moog K201623 bushings that have the slits. Mopar still sells the 52855534AA bushings separately, so there has to be a way to get it on the sway bar - BUT HOW?

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Discussion starter · #29 · (Edited)
UPDATE & QUESTIONS:
Installed two new Mevotech MS25810 stabilizer links. Its packaging shows a serviceable zerk fitting. Its website shows that as well. But, the part I have received had not zerk fitting included and it doesnt appear that there are any open port areas on the ball joint to press-on/thread a zerk fitting into the ball joint. When I squeeze the boot on the ball joint, there doesnt seem to be any grease in it. There is a steel ring around the boot- do I need to remove the steel ring and physically put grease into the fitting?

Just spoke with Mevotech - the DD-specific part MS25810 is pre-greased and the ball joint boot is non-serviceable.

@JC Hemi - I used an angle grinder and dremel to cut the old stabilizer links off the lower control arm. Did not need to bring out big guns like the old school hacksaw. :ROFLMAO:

So, just finished replacing these:
  • Stabilizer bar bushings
  • Retainer bracket nuts
  • Stabilizer bar links
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Discussion starter · #30 · (Edited)
UPDATE:
Just finished installing all the components and got an alignment done. All the noise in the front of the vehicle prior to this work is now absent. The inner tie rods were very worn out. So were the ball joints of the upper control arm. I replaced all the OEM parts with enhanced aftermarket parts - I wonder if they were never replaced by the previous owner. Drives like a new vehicle!

These are the front steering/suspension parts that were replaced:
  • Stabilizer bar bushings
  • Retainer bracket nuts
  • Stabilizer links
  • Upper control arms
  • Inner tie rods
  • Outer tie rods
  • Shock absorbers
  • Shock absorber lower bolt
Just FYI - 16mm heavy duty inner tie rods do not fit the 2007 DD because the outer thread of the 16mm inner tie rod is smaller in dia than the inner thread of the steering rack.

Thanks everyone for the input in doing this work - it was really helpful. I learned a lot from doing this and also what not to do based on the suggestions from the excellent folks on this forum!

@wannaeatyourbrains @JC Hemi

Here are some images of the finished work:

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Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
UPDATE and QUESTIONS:

So, got the DD alignment done and there are a few issues that have since surfaced.
  1. The steering wheel is off-center even when the front wheels are in forward position.
  2. The caster is off-spec (Dodge Spec: 3.5°+0.5°; My DD: 4.6° Left and 4.2° Right)
  3. There is a "metal clunk noise" when I turn the steering from right-to-left
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The FSM states:
Camber and caster adjustments must be made at the lower control arm. Do not use the upper control arm for Camber and Caster adjustments.
CASTER
Moving the rear position of the lower control arm at the frame in or out, will change the caster angle significantly and camber angle only slightly. To maintain the camber while adjusting caster, move the rear of the lower control arm in or out. Then move the front of the lower control arm slightly in the opposite direction.

The tech at the alignment center said that the vehicle is too old and the caster is not adjustable. I am not so sure about this.
Also, the steering was not off center before changing the sway-bar retainer bushings, stabilizer link (torqued at riding height), inner/outer tie-rods, upper control arms (torqued at riding height). Can this be caused by the misalignment of the sway bar? The lower control arm was not touched. I counted the number of threads of the outer control arm into the inner control arm and put in the new parts in exactly the same position.

  • How to fix this caster problem and the steering off-center issue?
  • Has anyone else had this "clunk noise" when turning the steering?
  • Should I take it to a dealership for alignment instead of a tire shop since the dealership knows exactly how to work on the DD for alignment?

I would appreciate any inputs - thank you!
 
#33 ·
Steering wheel is definitely a simple adjustment. My 05' never had any issues with alignment, but I do not recall if I ever installed adjustable camber brushings, eccentrics or bolts? Looking through my files now...

You have warranty, so you can take it back or search for another affiliated Goodyear which will honor the warranty. Was this a Goodyear corporate or franchise?
 
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Discussion starter · #34 ·
JC Hemi said:
Steering wheel is definitely a simple adjustment. My 05' never had any issues with alignment, but I do not recall if I ever installed adjustable camber brushings, eccentrics or bolts? Looking through my files now...

You have warranty, so you can take it back or search for another affiliated Goodyear which will honor the warranty. Was this a Goodyear corporate or franchise?
Click to expand...
Thank you @JC Hemi. I went to a Goodyear owned store instead of a franchise (in case there were any issues). How does one adjust the steering? I am wondering if it is because of the sway bar bushings not in the correct place?......
 
#35 ·
Smart man, now you can go anywhere (nationwide) where there is a corporate store and they will honor the warranty.

Sway bar has nothing to do with the steering weel. They are not attached. I am assuming the tie rod replacement pulled it out of spec.
 
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
JC Hemi said:
Smart man, now you can go anywhere (nationwide) where there is a corporate store and they will honor the warranty.

Sway bar has nothing to do with the steering weel. They are not attached. I am assuming the tie rod replacement pulled it out of spec.
Click to expand...
I wonder if it is because one of the outer tie rods are threaded a turn or two that is too far in/out causing this issue.......??
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
JC Hemi said:
Yes but alignment tech should have been able to adjust them. The tie rods have a lot of threads. Simply lazy is my guess.
Click to expand...
I'm at a different alignment location right now, spoke to the manager and summarized the parts that I've changed in the suspension/steering system and asked them to bring it to spec.
Hopefully the tech here can do a good job.
 
#40 ·
You need my good home wheel alignment from scratch. Make sure everything is squared, symmetrical and centred, and the wheels aligned properly, then put the steering wheel on straight last.

Mate, about the clunk. So far I have seen two different kinds of lower control arms and several kinds of ball joints people will sell you. They make some different heights on the lower control arm to knuckle scene. When I say knuckle, I actually mean the hub assembly. Big aluminium bit with the wheel bearing in the middle.

Check there is not a slight contact between the hub assembly and the lower control arm because of a mismatch between ball joint and lower control arm type, plus how your camber is adjusted.

You will just see a tiny divot on the two parts where they are meeting because the control arm is sitting too low relative to the hub assembly. It is at the back when the steering wheel is turned as far as it can go. It's hard to see, and I guess the noise would be a mystery to most.

My truck actually has a different lower control arm and ball joint on each side, and I have to square it up with the torsion bar adjustment. My adjustment bolts are protruding different amounts because of this parts issue.

But it squared up OK and no clunks in the end once I put the right ball joint with the right lower control arm.
 
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