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pridbor

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Has someone removed a seemingly stuck PCV valve?

I wanted to see how dirty my PCV valve had become after almost 80k miles, but I couldn't get it out.

I don't like to apply too much force to get it out, so I left it there because I don't think I have an issue with it.

But I also don't like being unable to get it out or risk breaking it and creating an even worse situation.

Has anyone a suggestion for me?
 
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#2 ·
It's super hard to twist. Others have found that out too. Plan on replacing it once you get it out since it might break anyway.
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Tin Foil Hat said:
It's super hard to twist. Others have found that out too. Plan on replacing it once you get it out since it might break anyway.
Click to expand...
I'm not afraid of breaking it, but breaking it such that a part stays in "the hole" and not being able to extract it again.
Has someone had one breaking it in the hole and then "recovered" somehow?

I was definitely planning on replacing it once out.

Thanks
 
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#4 ·
I use a pair of adjustable channel locks. Make sure the jaws grab the full length of the tab. A least thats how I did it on my 05’ Hemi for the last 18 years. Lol
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Two things,

1) I have a ton of tools and restored cars through the years, but I have never encountered the tool you mention, "channel locks", and

2) What's the finding when you got the PCV out after, let's say, 100k miles, dirty, semi-clogged, or?
 
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#6 ·
Are you sure? I'll bet you have more than one pair of these like all of us do.

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Tin Foil Hat said:
Are you sure? I'll bet you have more than one pair of these like all of us do.

View attachment 130717
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You are correct! I have several of those!
But I have never heard them referred to as "channel locks ".
Just for reference, I'm Danish and have lived around the world a bit, and tools are called differently all over, so I just learned a new term, thanks :)

I was planning to enhance the "center tab" using 2 pieces of stiff material to distribute the force of the tool hoping to avoid breakage.

Thanks for the input.
 
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#8 ·
Tin Foil I owe you a cold beer.

All PCV have been clean but I still replace them with OEM Mopar. This the way…
 
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#10 ·
I would have also known what that was just from being around for 63 years. ;)
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
In Danish, it would have been "Papegøje Tang", or badly translated a "Parrot Grip" :)

Thank you all

Preben
 
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#13 · (Edited)
JC Hemi said:
You are good brother. I dated a British girl 20 years ago and she called wrenches… spanners. Lol
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@JC Hemi Here's 10cents from my colonial education.....
I've never used the term channel locks @Tin Foil Hat. 😂 Used to refer to them as:

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Pump pliers


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Spanners
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Adjustable spanner


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Monkey wrench/F-wrench/adjustable wrench
 
#14 ·
pridbor said:
I'm not afraid of breaking it, but breaking it such that a part stays in "the hole" and not being able to extract it again.
Has someone had one breaking it in the hole and then "recovered" somehow?

I was definitely planning on replacing it once out.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I used large nose pliers on the PCV valve of my 2007 Hemi so that there is full contact on both sides the knob turn band to distribute the torque. So, less chance of breaking. I also sprayed Blaster around the contact area to lubricate it before turning it. The valve was in pretty bad shape and the spring had failed (135K mi).


Image
 
#15 ·
JC Hemi said:
I use a pair of adjustable channel locks. Make sure the jaws grab the full length of the tab. A least thats how I did it on my 05’ Hemi for the last 18 years. Lol
Click to expand...
I use an adjustable wrench exactly the same way. Works like a charm, and I've never had a PCV break or get stuck.

I also subscribe to what Tin Foil said - If the valve is coming out, a new one is replacing it no matter what I find.
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
#17 ·
Just replaced mine on the 21 RT. I used a microfiber cloth to protect the plastic a little bit and use the Channel locks like everyone mentioned and no issues at all. It's actually really thick abs plastic. After getting it out I realized it's super strong. I think you would have to be trying really really hard to break the grabbing section at the top. So I wouldn't worry too much.

Best of luck!
 
#18 ·
Those "channel lock pliers" are also sometimes called "waterpump pliers" as well as "slip-joint pliers".
They were widely sold by the Channel Tool Company and that's likely why the name "channel locks" became popular. Just a guess.

They are NOT though "parrot pliers". At least not here in America.

The term "parrot beak pliers" is used here to describe a pliers with curved jaws. The "channel locks" jaws are straight and definitely don't grip the same as parrot beaks.

Parrot beaks are often used for gripping round items such as pipes.

If you've ever used parrot beaks to grip and break loose a stubborn 1/4" or 3/8" pipe thread nipple you would be upset if someone handed you "channel locks" instead because they will invariably slip while parrot beaks will not.

Ironically, I actually own a couple of CHANNEL brand parrot beak pliers. 8○)
 
#20 ·
Yes! I've heard that name given to "channel locks" too!

Actually, I wonder if I got the "slip joint" description wrong and that term is solely reserved for the "standard" two position "regular type" pliers while groove joint is for "channel locks" exclusively?

Ha ha...the Tool Trivia game!!
 
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