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wradar

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a video (or photos) on how to access the exhaust manifold bolts on a 2014 5.7L Durango Limited? All of the videos I've found for the 5.7 are either Rams or Chargers, and I'm at a loss for how I'm supposed to access all of the bolts/nuts on the exhaust manifold. (I have at least a couple broken studs, so I'm trying to replace them.) The FSM reads as though you just access the bottom ones from underneath the vehicle, and the upper ones from up top, but I don't understand how I actually do that with regular-sized tools and appendages.

Am I better off taking the head off and bringing it all out from the top??? If yes, I have some access questions on that front, too. (Thanks, engineers who put a giant wiring harness right across the passenger-side valve cover.)
 
wradar:
Sorry to hear you have this situation to deal with. It seems that your '14 Limited has been a pretty good ride for you though, as your post count since joining in '14 averages 1ish a year. :D

From what I recall, folks have removed the tire on the offending side, and gone in through the wheel well. I know we have some members who have dealt with this. I'd hate to think you'd need to remove the head, but some have.
I also agree with your assessment on the location of the wiring harnesses. They look nice and neat when all is ok, but moving them aside especially after years of heat cycling under the hood is another matter.

Don
 
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Disconnect the battery and remove the Power Distribution Box (fuse box).
This will give you plenty of room to get to the passenger side manifold bolts.
 

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Dealer took the head off the pass side to get the broken studs out.
Really? That seems... extreme. I had several broken studs, and they all unscrewed almost by hand once the head snapped off.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
wradar:
It seems that your '14 Limited has been a pretty good ride for you though, as your post count since joining in '14 averages 1ish a year. :D
Yeah, it’s been pretty decent, but has had a couple more faults than I’d have hoped for based upon my previous Toyota ownership. So far: the Nav/Infotainment unit failed, broken exhaust studs (twice now), broken headrest, the parking brake cable detached from a brake component at the hub, the AC compressor leaked, and it has a tick that I still suspect is a lifter issue. For just shy of 100k, it isn’t a lemon by a long shot, but I’d have preferred not to have to deal with the engine issues. 😉

Thanks for the access insights!
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Disconnect the battery and remove the Power Distribution Box (fuse box).
This will give you plenty of room to get to the passenger side manifold bolts.
Thanks! The provided instructions appear to be from a different year, as my battery is under the passenger’s seat, but I have the FSM on mine so I should be set if I go this route.
 
Really? That seems... extreme. I had several broken studs, and they all unscrewed almost by hand once the head snapped off.
I thought so too, but for $100 deductible I wasn’t gonna complain.
 
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