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mestile

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Hi, my 2018 GT RWD 3.6L V6 has now 133k miles, I bought it few months ago and noticed this issue soon after I got it. Initially I was getting misfire code out and the start/stop warning and by reading around here I figured out, I changed the VVL solenoids, also did a good engine flush as I realized the previous owners/dealer were all a**holes, because the oil filter was horrible and I think I get a lot of sludge buildup inside. Once I realized they never took care of it, I also changed all the spark plugs. You can see some details in my previous post here https://www.dodgedurango.net/thread...-warning-on-with-rough-idle-and-misfire-vvl-solenoid-seepage.86681/#post-866895.
I have to say things got generally better after working on it, at least now I don't get the start/stop warning anymore, and also the misfire codes didn't come back.
Nevertheless, I still have an annoying issue, this can be roughly described like this:

  • randomly and only sometimes, MAYBE after the car has not being used for a while, when still cold/just turning on, the idling can be very rough. Th rpm gage is stable, it is just you notice it when sitting in the car. Weird, during a recent long trip (i.e. car was not cold) stopping at a light after a long highway ride, it also started to rough idle, but then it disappeared soon after and didn't come back for the next several days. No codes are thrown.
  • this happens very constantly and repeatable: when gradually accelerating from stopped, engine revs up OK in lower gears, in auto maybe goes up to 3k and shift smoothly, all good, but if you're cruising in a higher gear, say 70 in 8th gear on the highway, and there is a hill, at that point if the engine load becomes bigger, the car will shudder and will totally feels like there's misfiring if you're in the 1600-2000 rpm range. If you put it sport mode / downshift to 6 or 7th, obviously rpm range is changing, and engine sings perfectly not problems. I did this like 10 times in a row, on a hilly area with a lot of ups and downs, once the road was starting to climb, I'd be ready and downshift myself so the rpm range would be around 2500 rpm and never an issue. I admit that a similar issue can be found if the rpms go higher say above 3k rpm in high gears, so it seems there are "preferred" rpm bands where it can work perfectly.
Consider all this happened on a 1200 miles roundtrip and I had an average 27/28 mpg so I keep thinking if the engine would be totally screwed I would have other random issues or also not getting a very good mileage?

Any ideas or similar experiences would be nice to know, I would still try to see if there's something I can do before thinking I need maybe to tackle the rocker arm issue?

Thanks
 
If the transmission has never been serviced that would be the first thing I would do. Dodge claims lifetime fluid which is hooey.
 
Hi, my 2018 GT RWD 3.6L V6 has now 133k miles, I bought it few months ago and noticed this issue soon after I got it. Initially I was getting misfire code out and the start/stop warning and by reading around here I figured out, I changed the VVL solenoids, also did a good engine flush as I realized the previous owners/dealer were all a**holes, because the oil filter was horrible and I think I get a lot of sludge buildup inside. Once I realized they never took care of it, I also changed all the spark plugs. You can see some details in my previous post here https://www.dodgedurango.net/thread...-warning-on-with-rough-idle-and-misfire-vvl-solenoid-seepage.86681/#post-866895.
I have to say things got generally better after working on it, at least now I don't get the start/stop warning anymore, and also the misfire codes didn't come back.
Nevertheless, I still have an annoying issue, this can be roughly described like this:

  • randomly and only sometimes, MAYBE after the car has not being used for a while, when still cold/just turning on, the idling can be very rough. Th rpm gage is stable, it is just you notice it when sitting in the car. Weird, during a recent long trip (i.e. car was not cold) stopping at a light after a long highway ride, it also started to rough idle, but then it disappeared soon after and didn't come back for the next several days. No codes are thrown.
  • this happens very constantly and repeatable: when gradually accelerating from stopped, engine revs up OK in lower gears, in auto maybe goes up to 3k and shift smoothly, all good, but if you're cruising in a higher gear, say 70 in 8th gear on the highway, and there is a hill, at that point if the engine load becomes bigger, the car will shudder and will totally feels like there's misfiring if you're in the 1600-2000 rpm range. If you put it sport mode / downshift to 6 or 7th, obviously rpm range is changing, and engine sings perfectly not problems. I did this like 10 times in a row, on a hilly area with a lot of ups and downs, once the road was starting to climb, I'd be ready and downshift myself so the rpm range would be around 2500 rpm and never an issue. I admit that a similar issue can be found if the rpms go higher say above 3k rpm in high gears, so it seems there are "preferred" rpm bands where it can work perfectly.
Consider all this happened on a 1200 miles roundtrip and I had an average 27/28 mpg so I keep thinking if the engine would be totally screwed I would have other random issues or also not getting a very good mileage?

Any ideas or similar experiences would be nice to know, I would still try to see if there's something I can do before thinking I need maybe to tackle the rocker arm issue?

Thanks
Hello, i have the same problem with jerks when i drive 30 -45 mph im 5/6/7 gear. I replaced Spar plugs, EGR and map sensor. I dont have error codes. When is problem ?
 
I don't know if the 3.6L has a TPS, but if it does and it's easy to swap, I'd do that.

Don
 
Good on cleaning the TB. How many miles/KM?
I see you are outside the US. Is the fuel quality good there?

Don
 
Ok on that.
What year is your Durango and how old are the batteries?
BTW, the oem plugs are good for 100k miles. Shotgunning parts when you don't have a clear path will get expensive quickly. Also, if the new parts are bad which can happen, you are possibly introducing more problems than you are fixing.

Don
 
I
Ok on that.
What year is your Durango and how old are the batteries?
BTW, the oem plugs are good for 100k miles. Shotgunning parts when you don't have a clear path will get expensive quickly. Also, if the new parts are bad which can happen, you are possibly introducing more problems than you are fixing.

Don
21 year - batterie is from 21. Voltage is good.
Spark plugs changed and didnt help..
I dont Heve error codes.
 
Battery voltage does not tell the whole story. Since you have a '21, you have the Stop/Start system, so 2 batteries.
Before you throw and more parts in there, have both batteries load tested, ad replace both if one or both come back less than 100%

Don
 
Try disconnecting the batteries and holding the brake for a few seconds to deplete power in all the modules. Then reconnect the battery and see if the issue is resolved after some driving. This will force the transmission to relearn itself.
 
30 seconds hold on the brake please.

@Adamus:
There are 2 batteries, and they work together. Both should be tested and replaced if one or both come back less than 100%

Since you have the ESS system, we know you have the 3.6L engine. Is that 25,000 miles or KM?
Either way the plugs are good for 100k, so they should have been fine.

A weak or failing battery cause ALL sorts of electronic grief, shifting, starting issues etc. They are low hanging fruit so to speak, which is why they need to be ruled out early.

Don
 
30 seconds hold on the brake please.

@Adamus:
There are 2 batteries, and they work together. Both should be tested and replaced if one or both come back less than 100%

Since you have the ESS system, we know you have the 3.6L engine. Is that 25,000 miles or KM?
Either way the plugs are good for 100k, so they should have been fine.

A weak or failing battery cause ALL sorts of electronic grief, shifting, starting issues etc. They are low hanging fruit so to speak, which is why they need to be ruled out early.

Don
I have 25k milles. I bought big battery new. I checked small and it has good conditions.
 
Both batteries should be replaced together since they work together.
 
Adamus:
Was this a proper load test? If so, ok for now. Simply taking a voltage reading tells nothing about the load capacity that the battery can handle and till supply the the needed minimum voltage.

As TFH say, these batteries are in parallel, so if one is not up to snuff it can affect the other negatively.

BTW, at 25k miles or KM, the TB should not be dirty enough to need cleaning unless you ae in the desert and not running an air filter.

This might also turn out to be a transmission issue. Did you buy it new? Is there any remaining warranty on it?

Dom
 
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