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2001 Durango SLT 4.7 Performance Issues - Codes: P0601 P0204 P0205

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7.5K views 37 replies 7 participants last post by  sweersalex  
#1 ·
Hello,
I'm helping my dad with his 2001 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7 V8 4x4. It has a little under 180,000 miles. He had it since new, overall it has been an excellent, dependable vehicle.
For the past few weeks it will idle rough and shake a little when stopped at intersections, and when idling. It seems to happen no matter what gear it is in, and in neutral. It has poor acceleration, and it also gets about 12 MPG since the performance issues have been observed, which is significantly worse than it usually gets. (Around 18+ combined is what it got before, when new it was 20+)
It idles at about 620-650RPM (not sure if this is normal). We just changed out the original copper plugs and coils, thinking it would help, and it has not. (But it needed to be done anyway)
I pulled the following codes: P0601 (Internal Control Module - Memory Check Sum Error), P0204 (Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 4), and P0205 (Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 5).
We reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery terminal and turning the key over for 15-30 seconds, and all of the codes went away after reconnecting the battery and starting the vehicle. We took a short test drive and the Durango performed really well, with no codes appearing until we shut it down, and when we started it again, the 3 codes all came back, and the poor performance returned.
A little background, we replaced both the computer and crank shaft position sensor over 5 years ago to resolve a no start, "no bus" issue. (The crank shaft position sensor was the culprit) and it ran fine afterwards with no codes until recently. Not sure if this is related or not to the current issues. The computer was a refurbed unit.
Do you think we need to replace the computer again? I see on eBay you can get them for $150, and need to send the seller the VIN number. I also welcome any advice on how to check the cylinder 4 and 5 injectors/wiring, or if it could be something else. I've read to try replacing the TPS and IAC, both look like easy jobs and the parts are not too expensive, but I don't see how the codes point to these sensors being an issue. Regardless, should these be replaced due to mileage and age?
We also re-seated the three computer connectors, and checked the engine air filter. The battery is about 6 years old, but starts up just fine. I've also read batteries can cause strange issues, but would hate to throw a new battery at it prematurely.
Any insight would be appreciated!
Thank you very much, I know this was a long first post.
Alex
 
#3 ·
Sweers:
Before you do anything else, that 6 year old battery needs to go! I cannot recall how many Durango owners we have had here chasing their tails, spending all kinds of money, only to find out that their battery was crap.

At 6 years old, it has given you good service. The fact that you reset the system, and had it running well briefly, is quite telling.
At 180k, you may have a flaky sensor as well, but the battery needs to be scrapped asap.

Don
 
#4 ·
I was thinking the same about the battery, especially since it's in the engine compartment.
 
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#6 ·
Thank you all, I really appreciate the advice! I agree on getting a new PCM and battery. I'll discuss it with my dad, and will report back on how it goes. (It may be a few weeks) Also, I think after dropping the cash on a new PCM, it would be wise not to risk running it with an aged battery.

Speaking of aged batteries, I have a short story about that. I replaced a 20 year old battery (dated January 2003) in a 1999 Mercedes-Benz E320 earlier this year. It died a year ago, so it provided 19 years of service. I believe this was only possible because the car did sit in storage for 10 years on a battery tender, and the battery was also housed under the rear passenger seat, which is fairly protected from the elements. I do have a tendency to run batteries until they give me a problem, which I know is a bad habit.
 
C
#7 ·
I don't think its battery related in this case. I own a 2001 4.7L with 375,000 and its on the 4th battery...they seem to go around 7 yrs. I run them until the car starts to turn over slower or just won't start....never had any weird electrical issues or running issues from a dying/weak battery in my 2001 Durango.
 
#8 ·
@ Chase:
You would be an exception to our experience here then. A search of the Gen 1 forum here should reveal a good number of folks who were experiencing drivability and or electrical issues that ended up being a crap battery.

One of the frequent signs, is hard starting, then once started, having to keep your foot on the accelerator to keep it from dying. Been there, done that. The oem battery was toast. A new one was the cure.

I'd have it load tested at a minimum, and replace if it comes back,less then 100%. IMO, driving on an old battery is like driving on tires that are 90% worn out in heavy rain, just to get that last 10%.

Don
 
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C
#9 ·
I see what you're saying, but my experience with the exact same spec vehicle as his is it doesn't have weird issues. I've run it when the alternator has failed and with weak batteries.
That saying I do agree with you that the battery is at or near end of life at 6 yrs old.
A load test will tell the tale and free at your local auto parts store.
 
#10 ·
Today my dad and I replaced the computer and battery. The test drive went excellent, performance and MPG improved significantly, until we turned the vehicle off and on again. The engine light came back, with the same three codes, and the poor performance, poor MPG, and rough idle came back.
Obviously unexpected and undesirable results. What are your thoughts on what to check next? I suppose it’s possible the remanufactured computer was bad? But odd the three codes came back. The symptoms were exactly the same after we reinstalled the old computer and reconnected the battery.
We appreciate any help! We’re about to take it to a shop if there’s nothing obvious to check.
 
#11 ·
It might be a common failure in that generation of component, but I can't say for sure. I would replace the computer again to find out.
 
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#12 ·
Sweers:
Ok on that. I would have done the battery first, and then possibly moved onto the PCM depending on what the result was. There is quite a clue in the fact that it will run ok, after you reset the computer. Since it will run alright with the reset, there is likely not a hardware issue. I'm wondering if you have a sensor that is on the edge, and flaking out at some point.

The TPS is inexpensive, easy to R and R, and can cause you all kinds of grief. I would replace that with an oem part, do a battery reset, and see what you have.

Don
 
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#13 ·
Don Fox said:
Sweers:
Ok on that. I would have done the battery first, and then possibly moved onto the PCM depending on what the result was. There is quite a clue in the fact that it will run ok, after you reset the computer. Since it will run alright with the reset, there is likely not a hardware issue. I'm wondering if you have a sensor that is on the edge, and flaking out at some point.

The TPS is inexpensive, easy to R and R, and can cause you all kinds of grief. I would replace that with an oem part, do a battery reset, and see what you have.

Don
Click to expand...
It indeed is a night and day difference after a reset, and goes right to to hell again after a restart of the vehicle.

Is there an online source you recommend for the TPS (RockAuto's best/most expensive TPS for the vehicle appears to be a Delphi) or should I pick one up/order one at a dealership?

Thank you!
 
#14 ·
The oem part you seek, is 5017479AA I believe. I just did some searching, and am really shocked by the pricing I am seeing. I figured it would be $25-$30, but the results are double if not triple that.

I'll let you on on a little secret if you won't tell anyone else here. :ROFLMAO:
When the TPS in my '01 SLT 4.7L went flaky, I was experiencing the tell tale torque converter locking/unlocking when using cruise control on flat terrain. There was no dealer close by, so I obtained an aftermarket TPS from my local AutoZone. The problem was fixed right away. It was later on that I learned about how picky that Dodge/Chrysler products can be re sensors.

Don
 
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#15 ·
Thanks for the part number! I’ll call a local dealership to see if their prices are decent. Most Mopar TPS I’m seeing online are well over $100. Some double that!
Delphi is less than half that so I may roll with that if the dealership is too expensive. They make a lot of OEM stuff anyways. If the issue is indeed the TPS I’d expect even a cheaper one to resolve the codes, if anything.
 
#16 ·
Whatever you go back in with, once you have it in there, do a battery reset, then start it and let it idle for 5 minutes or so to come up to speed with the clean data. Hopefully your issue will be solved.

Don
 
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#19 ·
deeg16 said:
Did that solve your issue because I’m having the same problem with mine. With the same codes.
Click to expand...
Sorry to hear that! The rocker arm sounds pretty serious. What, if anything have you tried so far?

I have the TPS on order, I should have it next week, so next weekend I'll install it and will update this thread with the results. (Hopefully positive)
 
#20 ·
Good evening,
Here's an update on my dad's '01 Durango. We disconnected the battery, and then replaced the throttle position sensor with the Delphi unit. Upon starting the engine, the engine light was off, as expected. We let the Durango idle in place for about 5 minutes, we shut it down then started it up again. The engine light returned, but only with the P0601 code.
The P0204 and P0205 injector circuit open codes did not return, even after a test drive, and another shutdown and restart. The Durango also performed well on the test drive, and didn't have the performance issues it had before. MPG were also good.
So, it appears the TPS (throttle position sensor) was the issue the entire time.
It is odd the P0601 code remains, and it remained when we replaced the computer with a re-manufactured unit, which we returned as that didn't resolve any of the codes and was $150.
As long as the Durango continues to run well, and doesn't throw any additional codes beyond the P0601, my dad is going to run it.
Thank you all for the help! The P0601 code is the only current mystery, but so far it doesn't seem to cause any issues. That code has been present for a few years, without performance issues until recently, which has seemingly been resolved with the new TPS.
Have a good one,
Alex
 
#23 ·
Howdy folks, so it's been about a year, and the P0204 and P0205 codes have recently returned, along with the intermittent poor performance. :(

Pretty much the same symptoms as before, it runs rough intermittently, gets poor MPG intermittently as well. Very strange. Replacing the TPS last year resolved the P0204 and P0205 codes for a year, the P0601 had remained, and when that was the only code present, it ran fine.

Curious if anyone had this issue and had it be something other than the TPS. I wonder if something is cooking the TPS?

I think the first thing to try is disconnect the battery, reseat the TPS wire harness and PCM harnesses, reconnect battery and see what it does. The last time, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery would clear the codes until engine restart. I may also take it to a trusted local shop to have their guys look at it. Maybe their expensive big boy toy scanner will give additional info my little $30 scan tool doesn't.
 
#24 ·
Hi sweers:
Did you ever replace the battery? I'd have it load tested to rule it out. Your idea of going over the TPS harness sounds good.
Before you take it to a shop, if the batter is new or tests good I'd throw another TPS in there, and see if that does it.
Maybe your replacement crapped out.
Keep up posted please.

Don
 
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#25 ·
Hi Don,
I appreciate the response! We have not replaced the battery. I believe testing it is a good idea. If it was mine, I'd probably replace it. I assume we can just pull it and bring it to any auto parts store for them to do a test, or should I take it to a reputable shop for the load test?
I believe the TPS we used was a Delphi, wasn't as expensive as Mopar but was close. I'd consider a cheaper one just to see what that does, and if it later cooks, at least it was $25-$45 instead of ~$100.
I'll talk to my dad about this soon with your insight. (It's his vehicle, I'm rocking a 2005 Explorer with 301,000+ miles that has different problems, but still goes down the road alright considering) :p
Alex
 
#26 · (Edited)
@sweersalex , did you replace the battery on 2023-08-13?
I thought you mentioned in your post on that day that you did.
Would be interesting if, in testing, you discover that a warranty replacement for battery is necessary.
How hot does the weather get where you live? Heat kills batteries.
Here in hot Phoenix, AZ, batteries only last 3 years !!!
I actually got a partial warranty claim (as store credit toward the new battery) on one of my batteries for my D, as well as a battery for my old sedan. I have put in two new batteries for my Durango since I bought it in 2017.
Anyway...
I agree with Don. I think he has you on a good path.
And yeah, I'm jealous of anyone whose car battery lasts more than 3 years. o_O haha
 
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#27 · (Edited)
Hi Jimmy, Thanks for the response! Nice catch, now that you mention it, we must have replaced the battery as I recall the bolts retaining it in the housing were a pain to loosen due to rust.
We’re in Michigan, so we have a few 100 degree + days and usually snow from mid to late December through April. 3 years is a bummer! I have seen 2-3 year life here on some of our fleet vehicles but that was usually due to neglect or abuse by staff and leaving them sit without a charger during the winter.
I plan on seeing my dad on Sunday, so the first thing I'll do with the Durango is a battery disconnect to reset the PCM, reseat the PCM connectors and the TPS connector, reconnect the battery, and test drive. I expect, as in the past, the test drive will go great with those two codes cleared, only to return on restart. I'll probably pick up a cheap TPS to have handy in that event. The Delphi one we ordered was less than I thought, at under $40. Perhaps I'll order a $10-$15 one to throw on there and see what happens. I recall the Mopar one was $100, and maybe that's the answer. I'll go with a cheap one for now, if anything for troubleshooting $10-$15 plus shipping aint so bad and I'll throw some oil and air filters in the order or something for my other vehicles to justify shipping.
I'll share my results after we work on it on Sunday. :)
Thank you everyone,
Alex
 
#28 ·
Worked on the Durango with my dad earlier today. Got some unexpected results! We initially disconnected the battery to reset the PCM. Then I reseated all three PCM wire harnesses with battery disconnected. I noticed the connector closest to the firewall had an oily dark yellow liquid all around and in it, it was worse than the photo below, as I had wiped most of it off before taking the photo. Could this be a remnant of some sort of grease that had gotten hot? The other two connectors were bone dry. I cleaned it as best as I could before reseating it. I wonder if I should clean it out with some electronics contact cleaner of some kind that is safe to use on plastic.

Image


Before reconnecting the battery, I also reseated the wire harness to the TPS. We then reconnected the battery, started her up and had a successful test drive with no engine lights. Everything ran well until we turned it off, then restarted it. The P0601 PCM code returned, along with a new code, P0551 which is the power steering pressure sensor/switch. It was wet with what I presume to be power steering fluid, so it's not surprising. I plan on ordering that $15 sensor on my next RockAuto order, I don't think this issue is related to the recent performance problems, but I'll address it anyways. I took a photo of what that sensor looked like with the wire harness removed.

Image


I cleaned up and reconnected the power steering sensor/switch, and also disconnected and reconnected the battery again, which miraculously cleared the P0601 and P0551 code. But the P0204 Injector Circuit/Open Cylinder 4 code returned... but the vehicle drove fine on the test drive. We replaced the TPS regardless, as I had it on hand, but the P0601 code returned, as did the P0551 code, and the P0204 code remained. It drove fine after that as well on two test drives and a few restarts even with those codes present.

In summary, the P0205 code went away and so far has stayed away, the P0204 code returned and remains, as did the P0601 code, and we have a new code related to the power steering switch/sensor that I assume will be resolved with a new sensor.

I think the next steps are cleaning up that PCM connector better, as it still had a little of that fluid inside of the connection (impossible to reach it all with a rag or even q tips in the connector itself) and reseating that connection and replacing the power steering switch/sensor. I welcome any feedback on these findings. Thank you!

Update: I may have answered my own question, I found the below post on another forum with a similar issue on a Durango, where a guy had a strange fluid in the same area and said it was power steering fluid that somehow made its way in there due to a bad switch! Weird circumstances, including that below for reference:

Image
 
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