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Heaberlin06

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Have a 2017 Citadel Awd 5.7 had ac recharged at local Firestone as they said that's all was needed. Within a day or so was back blowing warm air only, after inspection factory condenser was leaking so replaced it. Still have quite the hissing noise coming through front vents as well. Cabin filter will check today,anyone else have some input on what else to check or next step....... expansion valve, evaporator etc??
 
Heaberlin:
Welcome to DDN. After replacing the condenser, were you able to pull a vacuum on the system and see if it held?
The AC condenser/trans cooler assembly on the Gen 3's is a known weak point. Usually, it's the trans part that leaks.
If you have the front/rear HVAC, that system holds quite a bit of refrigerant. I don't know the spec for the Gen 3's, but my Gen 2 held around 2.5 lbs.

Don
 
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I don't know about hissing noise...but typically low refrigerant produces gurgling noises at a stop or low speeds.
The only way to properly refill is to evacuate all the Freon, vacuum the system down to make sure there is no leak and then refill properly weighing the amount of Freon put back in.
Which you would have to do if one replaced the condenser.
 
Have a 2017 Citadel Awd 5.7 had ac recharged at local Firestone as they said that's all was needed. Within a day or so was back blowing warm air only, after inspection factory condenser was leaking so replaced it. Still have quite the hissing noise coming through front vents as well. Cabin filter will check today,anyone else have some input on what else to check or next step....... expansion valve, evaporator etc??
I don't know about hissing noise...but typically low refrigerant produces gurgling noises at a stop or low speeds.
The only way to properly refill is to evacuate all the Freon, vacuum the system down to make sure there is no leak and then refill properly weighing the amount of Freon put back in.
Which you would have to do if one replaced the condenser.
I had the same hissing sound which increased at idle and low speeds. The temp was not blowing cold. It turned out to be the evaporator front and back. Had them replaced and costed a pretty penny. Labor was what really burned me. However that annoying hissing is finally gone and the ac works like it used to.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Yeah had a bad feeling someone else was gonna say that, I know parts isn't bad at all but not being nosey how hard did they hit ya for labor and how long did it take them? I mean I can do myself just really really don't wanna lol
 
If you're not a qualified AC tech then you can't do it. It won't matter if you want to do it.
 
Because you can eff up your AC if you don't know what you're doing. Do you have a supply of R1234a? Do you know how to read gauges and do you know what the service pressures are? Do you have the equipment to responsibly evacuate and recover the freon still in the system? Just cracking the system open can't be done until the freon is recovered.
 
Yeah had a bad feeling someone else was gonna say that, I know parts isn't bad at all but not being nosey how hard did they hit ya for labor and how long did it take them? I mean I can do myself just really really don't wanna lol
My mechanic that I have been going to for year wouldn’t touch this problem. Told me it would be best to go to dealer. So I knew it was gonna be expensive, but I was floored when I got the estimate. $3200 ($1900 of it was labor).
 
My mechanic that I have been going to for year wouldn’t touch this problem. Told me it would be best to go to dealer. So I knew it was gonna be expensive, but I was floored when I got the estimate. $3200 ($1900 of it was labor).
This was for front and rear evaporator, maybe you will only need one of them replaced.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Because you can eff up your AC if you don't know what you're doing. Do you have a supply of R1234a? Do you know how to read gauges and do you know what the service pressures are? Do you have the equipment to responsibly evacuate and recover the freon still in the system? Just cracking the system open can't be done until the freon is recovered.
Actually I do know how to read gauges, and know what pressure should be on both sides, not a total dumbass here. Basically all I'd do myself is swap the part I'd let a shop recharge the system anyway
 
Then go for it and spin the wheel. All you have is time, right?
 
@ DurangoDave:
I'd find it very hard to believe that both front and rear evaps croaked at the same time. This sounds to me like the dealer was shotgunning parts on your dime. They wanted to make a buttload of cash, and then not have to worry about a callback in the event that the front core was not the issue.

They SHOULD absolutely be able to drill down to exactly where the leak is, and repair/replace only the affected pieces. We are seeing the same dilemma with the 8 speed transmissions. Dealers don't want to touch them, other than installing a new one under warranty, or at a cost of $5k+ out of warranty!

I have to wonder if we will eventually end up with, "Well, your 3 year old car with 40k on it will cost too much to fix, so you just need to buy another car!"

Don
 
Because you can eff up your AC if you don't know what you're doing. Do you have a supply of R1234a? Do you know how to read gauges and do you know what the service pressures are? Do you have the equipment to responsibly evacuate and recover the freon still in the system? Just cracking the system open can't be done until the freon is recovered.
It's actually really easy to refill the A/C system. Easy to vacuum it down to check for leaks too and a good set of gauges and vacuum pump that you can get on Amazon doesn't cost much.
You can go to any shop and have them evacuate the system...but if you have a leak and its no longer blowing cold you won't have much left in the system anyway.
If you have the dreaded R1234rf...its a good time to swap in good old R134a.
 
I have to wonder if we will eventually end up with, "Well, your 3 year old car with 40k on it will cost too much to fix, so you just need to buy another car!"
Japan put laws in place where once a vehicle hits 3 yrs old it has to have an inspection which apparently is very expensive. Then you have to repeat this every 2 yrs after and when the vehicle hits 10 yrs old, its required every year!
So most just write the vehicle off and buy a new one and the 3 yr - 10 yr old vehicle is crushed.
Let's hope our gov't doesn't get any ideas from Japan....but would be one way to get rid of ICE vehicles here.
 
Japan put laws in place where once a vehicle hits 3 yrs old it has to have an inspection which apparently is very expensive. Then you have to repeat this every 2 yrs after and when the vehicle hits 10 yrs old, its required every year!
So most just write the vehicle off and buy a new one and the 3 yr - 10 yr old vehicle is crushed.
Let's hope our gov't doesn't get any ideas from Japan....but would be one way to get rid of ICE vehicles here.
I heard this personally from one of the son-laws who was stationed there a few years ago.
 
Is the A/C working properly?

If not, take it back to Firestone. If your hell bent on figuring it out then I would suggest a second opinion. Search your area for a reputable A/C tech. Stealership will rape you on this repair.

Does the hissing noise happen at every fan speed? Does it do it with only vent and no recirculating A/C? How about when the heat is on?
 
Actually I do know how to read gauges, and know what pressure should be on both sides, not a total dumbass here. Basically all I'd do myself is swap the part I'd let a shop recharge the system anyway
I did this with my Jeep Commander...
The clutch on the compressor locked up...
Purchased a remanned oem from Napa along with a new evaporator, they should always be replaced together. They bolted up perfectly. Had a friend in the a/c business vac the system down and weigh in the exact amount of freon.
Cheap and easy
 
I believe you are referring to receiver drier (also known as an accumulator). It’s a cylinder looking device attached to one of the A/C lines coming out of the compressor.

The evaporator is more of a large condenser radiator finned looking box which is usually located inside the dashboard or encased in plastic on the firewall.

FYI whenever you open a A/C system it is recommended that the drier and orfice tube (filter) should be changed. On some cars this tube is called a liquid line (ala Ford).
 
Yeah, someone else that doesn't know the parts very well.
 
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