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DavidBarron

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
2001 D, 4.7, 45RFE tranny.

I have either one or two (or more?) transmission problems. Last summer, I drove up into the Sierras, which involves some long, gradual uphill climbing. Partway up, I got a Trans Temp warning light. I pulled over and checked the fluid level, but it was fine. When I started up again, the light went away, and I thought maybe I was running at too low an RPM, so I made sure to give it some gas going up inclines. It was fine the rest of the trip, and I haven't seen it since.

Until this week, when I was again driving up into the Sierras, this time on a fairly cold winter night. (Well, cold for us Californians, anyway.) Again, partway up a long, gradual climb, the Trans Temp light came on. I pulled off at the next exit (after the top of the climb), and let it idle while I watered the snowbank. It was still on, but I was in the middle of nowhere, so I figured I'd take a chance. I turned off OD and coasted down a couple of short inclines, and after a couple of miles the light went off. I drove around the Tahoe basin for a couple of days, and made it home again, with no problem. But none of that involved much uphill.

While this has been going on, I've also had the Check Engine light on. It's showing P0700 and P0740 codes, not always consistently. (And I seem to get different results if use the key method or a code reader. On at least one occasion the reader showed a code, but the key method didn't.) I think the Check Engine light came on sometime after the first Trans Temp issue, but I'm not sure about the timing.

After the first problem, I drained and refilled the tranny, and changed both filters. I checked the level again on the way home last night, and it's fine, with no burnt smell.

I'm inclined to think there might be some blockage in the radiator that's limiting circulation, but I don't know how to check that, and that's a bit too expensive to just throw a part at. And I have no idea if that will correct the codes issue. I rather doubt it.

One key point: I've had no problems with shifting, and the OD switch works. A few weeks ago my wife said she was stopped at a light, and the D wouldn't move when she tried to give it gas. But when she restarted it, it was fine. I have occasionally had times when it doesn't fully shift into Drive from Park, but it will always work when I put it into P and back into D, so I've figured it might be some slop in the gear shifter. Given that, without actually being there, I have to take my wife's experience with a grain of salt.

There have been some threads here about P0700 and P0740 codes, but no real resolutions that would seem to apply here, so I'm kind of stumped. Any ideas?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Located inside the valve body. Like I said if your not familiar with tearing into the tranny let a pro do it. My Dad was a Mopar transmission mechanic and could tear one down with his eyes closed. I never liked messing with them except for general maintenance.
 
Known to fail is the solenoid block...which is responsible for shifting...especially in a 2001 as the solenoid block was upgraded in 2003.
It is an easy replacement, so if you're comfortable dropping the pan and changing out the filters, you can swap in a rebuilt solenoid block or upgrade to the newer design.
Typically signs its failing is you'll end up in limp mode...where its stuck in 2nd gear..which may not be your issue at all. But you will get a P0700 code when it does.
I've never experienced an overtemp warning. Do you have HD cooling? That comes with the tow package.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Chase300, I don't know if I have HD cooling. I don't have a towing package. The tranny lines are cooled through the radiator, if that helps.

I'm wondering if it isn't a bad temp sensor, except that it has only been triggered by long uphills, which would be the time I'd expect a temp issue.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Closing the loop here. I ended up taking her into a tranny shop. They did a rebuild and added an aux cooler. That all seems to have solved the problem. No more tranny-related codes, and I haven't seen the Trans Temp light yet. (Granted, it's still winter in California, but the last time the light went on was only a couple of months ago.) So, fingers crossed, I think that particular problem is solved. I have a new one, but I'll start a new thread for that.
 
Experiencing exactly the same problem (2002 Durango 4.7 45RFE with 172,000), strange shifting at higher speeds on grades, seems not to be shifting into higher gears. Runs perfectly the rest of the time and once off the grade shifts fine. Also showing a P0740 code. Have researched all of that. Code most often turns out to be a faulty torque converter from what I've read.

Took it to a transmission shop. They said with that mileage and symptoms, time for a reman for $6-7,000 (their install).

My questions:
1. Could it be something simpler as the transmission runs so well, otherwise?
2. How long have you all found these transmissions to last?
3. Could a fluid and filter change possibly cure these symptoms?
4. And whatever I do, am I fighting the age of the transmission and it should just be rebuilt or replaced?
5. Transmission shop said replacing transmission with reman is not a DIY project. Can't find anything online where someone's replaced one. Any feedback on that?

I know you did a rebuild on yours, David, but I'm trying to get as much detail as possible on this. Just paid $2,000 for the rig and turning it into a $9,000 rig with 170K on it may not be feasible.

Appreciate any response. Thanks.
 
Not sure what the price of the reman only was. That was for the whole job. He said the remans are the way to go now as they're upgraded. Either way I still want to figure out if I really need a rebuild for the symptoms I'm having or if there are other repairs that could address this. If I need another trans or rebuild, I'll look at that, compare prices, etc. Sort of hard to believe when this trans shifts so smoothly otherwise, but maybe that's the first sign of complete failure, I don't know.
 
Before you do anything else, replace the TPS and see if that helps. The 4.7L /45RFE combo is sensitive to a flaky TPS.
When you do, remove the battery cable, depress the brake pedal 30 seconds, then reconnect, fire it up, and touch nothing for 4-5 minutes. If all seems well, go for a drive and see what you have.

Don
 
Thanks, Don. Just replaced the TPS as had high and fluctuating idle issues. Checked for vacuum leaks, replaced some hoses and PCV. Did a different reset, but will try what you said. I hooked up the driver's seatbelt, pulled the PCM fuse, turned the key to "on" till 2 chimes. A lot of reset procedures out there. I'll try yours.
 
Drove a few miles up a 6% grade at 60 mph. All the shifting felt appropriate and smooth. Cool out, engine at full operating temperature, transmission temp unknown. Wasn't a hot day when that shifting issue happened earlier, either.

After installing the new TPS it has idled low and smooth, down to 500 at times, but smooth and even. Felt right. When I start it warm, it revs up briefly to 1100, backs immediately down to 900, then drops to 600 and stays there. No more fluctuations while driving. The 1100 to 500 arc is fast and doesn't delay me putting it in gear more than a second or two if I'm fast (I like to shift when the idle"s the lowest ~ figure it's easiest on the engine and transmission). I'm assuming starting at those rpms is normal for these engines, that they need to rev up briefly for some reason.

Conclusion at this point:
So far, the TPS solved the idle issue. (Used your technique to reset it, Don.)
The transmission ran well with one test drive. I have a hunch it'll do it again. The first grades it ran fine on earlier and didn't act up till pulling them again coming home. Could be a heat issue, that the transmission cooling system isn't up to snuff. Could be the transmission's wearing out. Could be it was the TPS because it has some mysterious relationship with the transmission. I love all this sensor stuff. Could be something lucky like old fluid or even a valve body. Even just a torque converter is doable.

Old days.... spark, gas, compression, timing. That was it.

I'll keep updating, as if anyone else has this issue, this could be a helpful addendum to the original thread.
 
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