Gen1 Shock Replacement Procedure / Request

FireEater · Jan 9, 2008

I put Monroe Sensa-Trac on mine and love them. On my recent trip from Texas to Florida to rode great. Of course I went from the 10 year old stock shocks to these at almost 100,000 miles on the vehicle.

I paid $83.98 for the both front ones and $77.98 for the both back ones or vice versa, I forget.

Not sure if the eBay shocks you list are a step up from mine or a step below them. But you'll pay $118 for them with shipping. I paid $161.96 for all four of mine.

So that's probably where you'll have to compare the Sensa-Trac to the Monromatic shocks.

DCDAD · Jan 10, 2008

If I ever wear out my KONI's I'll check out a set of Bills, as that seems to be the shock of the talk here. as for economy and shocks on a budget, I haven't seen anyone mention KYB gas-adjust shocks, I've used them before and was pleased with their performance. Just another option.

http://www.kyb.com/kyb.php

Ron

qwassy111 · Apr 20, 2008

the front shocks appear to be surrounded by the spring and has 2 bolts that hold the shock/spring to the lower control arm. I assume the shock will drop out when removed, the top bolt will need to be accessed from under the hood. Does this sound right?

Oldtin · Apr 20, 2008

Yes,you're correct!

qwassy111 · Apr 21, 2008

Oldtin said:
Yes,you're correct!

I assumed this setup would require the springs to be compressed to get at the shocks like Macpherson's but I guess not after thinking about it. the frame is sitting on the springs so shouldn't be a problem. Just remove/replace the shocks. Some pics for clarification:

qwassy111 · Apr 21, 2008

was hoping to get some input on the latest pics I posted. Does this look like the same setup for the fronts (i.e. spring around shock) your all running on your 4x4 rigs. Have the PB soaked in and have a set of monroe Sensatracks ready to go in.

I have never replaced shocks, so I'm being overly cautious.

Thanks in advance and for all the great pointers thus far!

qwassy111 · Apr 29, 2008

qwassy111 said:
was hoping to get some input on the latest pics I posted. Does this look like the same setup for the fronts (i.e. spring around shock) your all running on your 4x4 rigs. Have the PB soaked in and have a set of monroe Sensatracks ready to go in.

I have never replaced shocks, so I'm being overly cautious.

Thanks in advance and for all the great pointers thus far!

Update: I tried with a 3/8in breaker bar and couldn't get the lower rears unbolted. Do you need 2 wrenches when removing?? One on each end. I only had PB Blaster on one side so going to get at it again real good and both sides. Hopefully this help. According to the Haynes manual the rears are torqued to 70ft-lb which is equivalent to lug nuts, and I usually have to pound my foot on the wrench to get them loose.

Looks like I need to get some pvc or lead pipe to make a cheater bar with (over the breaker bar end)

DCDAD · Apr 29, 2008

Qwassy,
The front of the 4x4 units is way different, no springs to contend with as torsion bars are used instead. Proceed with removal keeping in mind that the shocks are mounted useing nuts and free spininng bolts. you'll need to hold both sides of the nut/bolt to get loose. cheater bar is a good idea, but make sure it doesn't slip,your knuckels will thank you later. BE VERY CAREFUL of useing your foot to "kick" the bolts, as you may kick the truck off the stands. Be sure its stable.
Soak both sides of those bolts good, and you'll be fine. once you break em loose, its all down hill from there. Good luck!

Don't be like this idiot,

qwassy111 · Apr 29, 2008

DCDAD said:
Qwassy,
The front of the 4x4 units is way different, no springs to contend with as torsion bars are used instead. Proceed with removal keeping in mind that the shocks are mounted useing nuts and free spininng bolts. you'll need to hold both sides of the nut/bolt to get loose. cheater bar is a good idea, but make sure it doesn't slip,your knuckels will thank you later. BE VERY CAREFUL of useing your foot to "kick" the bolts, as you may kick the truck off the stands. Be sure its stable.
Soak both sides of those bolts good, and you'll be fine. once you break em loose, its all down hill from there. Good luck!

Don't be like this idiot,

thanks for the vote of confidence. while stupid, pretty impressive nonetheless.

dizzyD · Apr 29, 2008

If the 2wd D's Are like the 2wd Ram's, you shouldn't need a second wrench, Their is a "keeper" to prevent the nut from turning. But I've also seen people remove these keepers to use the new bolts some kits provide. The bolts may break if using the foot method or a cheater bar, depending on their condition?

qwassy111 · Apr 30, 2008

qwassy111 said:
DCDAD said:

Qwassy,
The front of the 4x4 units is way different, no springs to contend with as torsion bars are used instead. Proceed with removal keeping in mind that the shocks are mounted useing nuts and free spininng bolts. you'll need to hold both sides of the nut/bolt to get loose. cheater bar is a good idea, but make sure it doesn't slip,your knuckels will thank you later. BE VERY CAREFUL of useing your foot to "kick" the bolts, as you may kick the truck off the stands. Be sure its stable.
Soak both sides of those bolts good, and you'll be fine. once you break em loose, its all down hill from there. Good luck!

Don't be like this idiot,

Click to expand...

thanks for the vote of confidence. while stupid, pretty impressive nonetheless.

wasn't even planning on jacking it up. Can easily reach the rears from underneath the vehicle. As long as the shock isn't holding up the car should be fine? If I'm not mistaken the vehicle wt is sitting on the springs. Better put a jack under the car just in case? after all can never be TOO safe

DCDAD · Apr 30, 2008

qwassy111 said:
qwassy111 said:

DCDAD said:

Qwassy,
The front of the 4x4 units is way different, no springs to contend with as torsion bars are used instead. Proceed with removal keeping in mind that the shocks are mounted useing nuts and free spininng bolts. you'll need to hold both sides of the nut/bolt to get loose. cheater bar is a good idea, but make sure it doesn't slip,your knuckels will thank you later. BE VERY CAREFUL of useing your foot to "kick" the bolts, as you may kick the truck off the stands. Be sure its stable.
Soak both sides of those bolts good, and you'll be fine. once you break em loose, its all down hill from there. Good luck!

Don't be like this idiot,

Click to expand...

thanks for the vote of confidence. while stupid, pretty impressive nonetheless.

Click to expand...

wasn't even planning on jacking it up. Can easily reach the rears from underneath the vehicle. As long as the shock isn't holding up the car should be fine? If I'm not mistaken the vehicle wt is sitting on the springs. Better put a jack under the car just in case? after all can never be TOO safe

If your not going to lift the D, no need for the jack, or stands. May be easier with it up in the air a little, but I'm a larger guy, @280lbs, it made it easier for me to raise the vehicle, and even remove the spare to get it done. much more room to move around in there, especially on the top side. Good luck, and I think you'll find when your done it's a pretty easy deal.

Ron

qwassy111 · Apr 30, 2008

DCDAD said:
qwassy111 said:

qwassy111 said:

DCDAD said:

Qwassy,
The front of the 4x4 units is way different, no springs to contend with as torsion bars are used instead. Proceed with removal keeping in mind that the shocks are mounted useing nuts and free spininng bolts. you'll need to hold both sides of the nut/bolt to get loose. cheater bar is a good idea, but make sure it doesn't slip,your knuckels will thank you later. BE VERY CAREFUL of useing your foot to "kick" the bolts, as you may kick the truck off the stands. Be sure its stable.
Soak both sides of those bolts good, and you'll be fine. once you break em loose, its all down hill from there. Good luck!

Don't be like this idiot,

Click to expand...

thanks for the vote of confidence. while stupid, pretty impressive nonetheless.

Click to expand...

wasn't even planning on jacking it up. Can easily reach the rears from underneath the vehicle. As long as the shock isn't holding up the car should be fine? If I'm not mistaken the vehicle wt is sitting on the springs. Better put a jack under the car just in case? after all can never be TOO safe

Click to expand...

If your not going to lift the D, no need for the jack, or stands. May be easier with it up in the air a little, but I'm a larger guy, @280lbs, it made it easier for me to raise the vehicle, and even remove the spare to get it done. much more room to move around in there, especially on the top side. Good luck, and I think you'll find when your done it's a pretty easy deal.

Ron

I'm definitely with you there. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to jack up for the extra room. I'll leave the tires on and just jack it up. The haynes manual recommended applying non-hardening thread sealant, does anyone think this is necessary; I was going to put antisieze to help with the next change? but don't guess they want these things going anywhere b/w the locking sealent and torque.

qwassy111 · May 5, 2008

4x2 front shocks are a PITA

Update: Well I managed to change out the rear shocks. Fairly straight forward. The fronts different story? I was unable to change out the front shocks on my 4x2 setup. Seemed easier than the rears only that I can't get the top mounting nut broke loose. This setup has the shock running up through the middle of the spring and according to Haynes supposed to clamp the shaft while removing the top bolt to prevent the shaft from spinning. The 2 bolts on the bottom of the shock came off easy enough just can't get enough leverage to keep the shaft from spinning. I sprayed the top shock bolt with PB Blaster again real good and hopefully will help. Don't know how 1 person could change this out unless using a C-clamp or similar (see previously posted pic for shock set-up)

Still, with the new tires and rear shocks the truck already seems to handle better. The rears were much beefier and required 70ft-lbs while the fronts are a much smaller unit and only require 20ft-lbs of torque. I think if I can get the shaft clamped good it won't take much to break this troublesome top bolt.

FSTDANGO3 · May 5, 2008

If you're replacing the shocks use a reciprocating saw and cut the top of shock bolt off. Or Grab shaft with Vice Grips who cares if you scratch it they're scrap metal!
Steve
DOC Pres

qwassy111 · May 5, 2008

FSTDANGO3 said:
If you're replacing the shocks use a reciprocating saw and cut the top of shock bolt off. Or Grab shaft with Vice Grips who cares if you scratch it they're scrap metal!
Steve
DOC Pres

might end up doing something like this. I had a pair of locking pliers on it but couldn't manage to get enough grip around the shaft

DCDAD · May 5, 2008

might end up doing something like this. I had a pair of locking pliers on it but couldn't manage to get enough grip around the shaft[/quote]

Isn't there a "notched " section on top of the shaft allowing the use of a wrench to keep the shaft from spinning as you break the nut loose? most shocks have that provision.

Ron

FSTDANGO3 · May 6, 2008

Still say cut it or use a small pipe wrench on the shaft if the vise Grips won't hold
Steve
DOC Pres

Oslo D · May 16, 2008

On the 4x4, all bolts are easily accessible from the front and rear, so I just turned the wheels in my garage and replaced them with no jacking (the Bilsteins came expanded, but could be compresed into place by hand).

To get the originals off, I had to buy an 18mm pipe for the lower bolts (the metric sets come in 15-17-19), and used a 15mm wrench for the top ones. The shaft did rotate, but it wasn't completely round at the top, can't remember if I used a grip or a smaller fixed wrench to hold it.

The new Bilsteins had a hollow top where I could fit an umbrako key.

(by the way, the read end is still jumping sideways over bridge joints when I hit them in a curve, but now more controlled!)

From my research, I found these part numbers:
Front Monroe Sensatrac, MO37068,
Front SACS '170880'
Rear Sachs gas, SAC030767
or Rear Sachs '170787'
I also found that many of the different names are just a variation over the same, they're all produced at the same assembly line at Monroe Private Brand I Nevada!

qwassy111 · May 19, 2008

to be honest I really can't tell much a difference with the new monroe sensatrac shocks front & rear. I'm sure it's better! It seems like I don't knocked around as much when hitting bumps or potholes? seems to be more controlled but for me is really hard to tell a difference. Anyone have similar experiences?

Gen1 Shock Replacement Procedure / Request

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