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prodrivewrx2nv

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi, everyone. I'm new here, but have been on the site before and enjoy the content. I currently have a 2019 Durango GT. It's my second Durango, with the first being the 2015 SXT. I traded it in on the 2019 because I wanted something with a few more bells and whistles. I love everything about the vehicle or at least, I did love everything about it.

Long story short, my wife got in an accident with it and hit someone with the front of our Durango. Body work was complete and ever since then, the start/stop system never worked. We drove it for about a year with the start/stop system not working and finally this summer, it started giving me the message saying it was going to shut down soon, please pull over. I would pull over, shut it off and start it again and it would be fine. Eventually, it happened more often and we took it to the dealer. They replaced both batteries and sent us on our way. Two days later, my wife pulled it into the driveway saying it was giving her the same error that it was going to shut down. Back to the dealer we went only for them to not be able to produce the issue. They said the system is finicky and if the voltage drops below 12, it will throw that error but it's nothing to worry about. I put about another 5k miles on it with no issue.

Labor Day weekend, I took my family on a trip to Virginia (8 hours from me) to visit family. Monday morning, the Durango would not start. After letting it sit for an hour or so, it started right up and away we went. About two hours into the trip home, I got a message saying my voltage was too low so I pulled into the local auto zone to have them test my system. No error codes came back and everything passed. I made it home and took the next day off to drive it until it gave me the error. It took over two hours but it finally popped up and I pulled into the dealer. They scanned it and told me my alternator was bad. That was replaced. I drove it home (20 mins) and by the time I pulled in my driveway the message came up that my battery voltage was too low. It put a red ring around the speedometer and a red battery light was on display on the dash. This time I was pretty angry and took it back to them with the message and explained to them that this is my wife's car and I cannot have her with my kids somewhere stranded so I would appreciate some actual troubleshooting to get to the bottom of the issue. So now they're telling me they found a fuse block somewhere melted so they are going to replace that and if that doesn't work, they'll throw a new wiring harness on. To me, it doesn't seem like anything is being done to actually get to the bottom of the issue. They seem to be throwing parts at it until it's fixed. It will be covered by warranty since everything started happening prior to the warranty being expired but I just want my damn vehicle back fixed. I almost feel like it's in the wiring somewhere and it happened when my wife was in that accident I mentioned earlier.

I read a lot of horror stories like mine but have never come across one where the issue was actually resolved. Have any of you had this issue or a similar issue and have the dealer actually successfully fix the problem? If so, what did the problem end up being?

Any advice or information is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
 
Take out the small stop/start battery and defeat that system. See if that solves it. That system is annoying anyway.
 
Sounds to me like a a loose wire or as the dealer said, a melted fuse block that is causing an open circuit intermittently.
I assume you did not go through insurance for your initial repair since it would the the responsability of the insurance company to repair as well.

In any case your dealer is onto it and right now there should be no reason to not believe them.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Sounds to me like a a loose wire or as the dealer said, a melted fuse block that is causing an open circuit intermittently.
I assume you did not go through insurance for your initial repair since it would the the responsability of the insurance company to repair as well.

In any case your dealer is onto it and right now there should be no reason to not believe them.
The same dealer is doing the work that did the bodywork. I asked them if they felt it would be even a slight possibility that a wire was cut even slightly or something in the collision would affect the electrical issues I'm having and he said no way.

Any idea what would cause that fuse block to melt???

Thanks for the quick response!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Update: I got the Durango back and everything looked good. Volts held between 14.2 and 14.5 for the drive home. Tonight, my wife came home and said it was hovering around 13.2-13.5. I drove it and it’s now sitting at 13.0. If I turn the lights in, it drops to 12.5 and jumps back to 13.
I am taking the day off tomorrow and driving it until it gives me the error message and I’m taking it back.
This trip, it was the fuse lock and they traced a bad ground. Had my hopes up but not so much now. I’m ready to trade it in.
 
Update: I got the Durango back and everything looked good. Volts held between 14.2 and 14.5 for the drive home. Tonight, my wife came home and said it was hovering around 13.2-13.5. I drove it and it’s now sitting at 13.0. If I turn the lights in, it drops to 12.5 and jumps back to 13.
I am taking the day off tomorrow and driving it until it gives me the error message and I’m taking it back.
This trip, it was the fuse lock and they traced a bad ground. Had my hopes up but not so much now. I’m ready to trade it in.
Did you ever figure out your issue with the voltage/start and stop?
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Did you ever figure out your issue with the voltage/start and stop?
Yessir. The Dealer was able to resolve my issue. Long story short, I drove it the day after I posted my last update and got it down to around 12.3 volts. It took me about 3 hours of driving it in different scenarios to get it that low. It wasn't giving a code but I stopped at the dealership anyway just to talk to them. They had their Master mechanic hook up to it to see if there was anything alarming to him. He came in the waiting room and asked me to follow him out into the garage area. He had my Durango running and had a laptop hooked up to the diagnostic port. He showed me the charging system. It had two numbers; one that was solid on 11.9 and one that fluctuated between 11.9 and 12.3. He really took the time to explain to me how the system was designed and how it works.
 
They didn't replace the alternator or the module that regulates the output of the alternator?
 
And it's still running??? Totally implausible and impossible! These vehicles need to constantly see between about 13.5 at the lowest, to around 14.5 the highest, with 14.2 or so being a constant average. Period!

When my '06 Daytona started to act like his above symptoms, after some checking of battery and connections, I knew right away I had a blown diode in my alternator. Bingo! Fixed. Has ALWAYS run around that 14.2 since, unless full-stop, headlights, fog lights, HVAC on high, cooling fans on high, with radio on, then may drop to around 13.5 - 13.8. I find it astounding in very cold weather that an electrical system that charges that low could maintain a battery with enough juice to turn it over, let alone fire. These things are so sensitive to bad/low batteries, and electrical systems that put out such little voltage. You would be seeing all kinds of errors and anomalies.
 
First off... if the warnings haven't returned and the car is operating fine for you then that's great, hopefully you are now fine.

If the dealer was trying to explain that between 11.9 & 12.3 was normal for 'charging' voltage then that's a new one one me. My understanding is the vehicle should be at least charging around 13.5v on the low end.
 
I had a start/stop issue for a while due to a faulty battery. My husband was not about to spend $300 for the dealership to replace it. He went to Rural King and bought a battery himself for around $65 and I have not had an issue since. We typically turn off the start/stop as it is annoying most of the time, but having it work is good for my peace of mind. Found out the main battery was not producing enough to send to the start/stop battery. Works perfect now and without any issues.
 
A $65 battery? What could possible go wrong there? You do know that the batteries under the seat must be AGM batteries to avoid acid fumes? For $65 I doubt he got an AGM battery.
 
A $65 battery? What could possible go wrong there? You do know that the batteries under the seat must be AGM batteries to avoid acid fumes? For $65 I doubt he got an AGM battery.
No crap! The battery is AGM and was only $65 new from Rural King. My buddy needed a new battery for his Jeep, bought the same brand and both vehicles are running as they should. Considering my husband and I both know what we are doing, built enough race cars and vehicles in our lives, that we probably know the battery needs to be AGM to go in the truck.
 
No crap! The battery is AGM and was only $65 new from Rural King. My buddy needed a new battery for his Jeep, bought the same brand and both vehicles are running as they should. Considering my husband and I both know what we are doing, built enough race cars and vehicles in our lives, that we probably know the battery needs to be AGM to go in the truck.
BPeterson2990, My 2019 GT is having issues. For the past year start/stop error message displays now and then. I would not use it if it worked, so no problem. Recently the bearing in the alternator started making noise, and I replaced it. The new 160 amp alternator lasted less than 2000 miles, and the bearing in it seized up. I replaced the alternator with a 180 amp one. Took it for a test drive, and the start/stop system started working. The concern is, I started monitoring the voltage. 13-14 volts for the test drive, looking good, however this morning driving to work I had a steady 12.7 volts. Every now and then especially when I slowed down to pull into the parking lot, the voltage jumped up to 13-14 volts. Did you have to reset any codes, after replacing the battery? I know that a fully charged battery should show 12.7 volts, but I never had one show that voltage driving down the road. I am new to the Durango's.
 
If you've never changed your batteries that is the first thing to do.
 
For me, I just got my main battery at Costco but I don't need the small one. There have been good reports for the H7 at Walmart but I think yours will take the H6 to leave room for the small battery. If Walmart doesn't have them both then others have liked the Interstate batts and others like the ones you can get at NAPA.
 
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