I HAVE A 07 Dodge Durango I have replaced the throttle body the egr valve the ecu the crankshaft position sensor everything everyone has said to replace in a post an I still get the lighting boot after I drive for a while after fixing any of the problems the truck drive ok then boom the lighting bolt come on an I am back to spending more money do anyone have anything else
Help me
Youngdave205
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I HAVE A 07 Dodge Durango I have replaced the throttle body the egr valve the ecu the crankshaft position sensor everything everyone has said to replace in a post an I still get the lighting boot after I drive for a while after fixing any of the problems the truck drive ok then boom the lighting bolt come on an I am back to spending more money do anyone have anything else
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Hi Dave:
Welcome to DDN. What engine, and how many miles on your '07? How old is your battery? If not pretty new, I would have it load tested to rule out any issues there.
When this issue presents, what is the effect on drivability? Do you have to pull over, or?
Have you done the "key dance" to see what codes are present?
Don
Welcome to DDN. What engine, and how many miles on your '07? How old is your battery? If not pretty new, I would have it load tested to rule out any issues there.
When this issue presents, what is the effect on drivability? Do you have to pull over, or?
Have you done the "key dance" to see what codes are present?
Don
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You just threws hundreds of dollars at a problem based on what someone said to you? Take it to a reputable mechanic for a diagnosis of what is causing your issue.
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The truck cuts off an when I try to crank it the truck takes a long time to crank back up an the lighting bolt keep flashing it has never went off since the problem came I can’t drive the truck
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An I have the 5.7
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Dave:
Ok on the 5.7.
The issue with throwing parts at a problem without further diagnosis, is that you can spend a bunch of unneeded money, and possibly install a poor quality "new" part that is now causing issues of it's own. You need to load test the battery, and see what codes are stored.
Start with the ignition key in the off position. Cycle it from start to run (not start) 3 times within 5 seconds. Observe the odometer display. Any stored P codes will show there. If there are none, it will say P done.
Check for codes, and report back.
Don
Ok on the 5.7.
The issue with throwing parts at a problem without further diagnosis, is that you can spend a bunch of unneeded money, and possibly install a poor quality "new" part that is now causing issues of it's own. You need to load test the battery, and see what codes are stored.
Start with the ignition key in the off position. Cycle it from start to run (not start) 3 times within 5 seconds. Observe the odometer display. Any stored P codes will show there. If there are none, it will say P done.
Check for codes, and report back.
Don
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The battery is good just got it tested no codes come on the scanner I am lost
From the scanner? Don said to do the key dance. You're not listening.
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Did that you must can’t read
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Will a tune up cause the lighting bolt to come up
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I did that an that’s what they order to fix it still no fix
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anyone know anything
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You may want to pay a Dodge dealer their diagnostic fee (couple hundred I would assume) to see what the problem is and let them quote you.
You can then decide to do it yourself and hope they were right or let them do it. Another $200 is nothing in the scheme of what you already paid (for nothing) so get it done man and let us know the outcome~!
You can then decide to do it yourself and hope they were right or let them do it. Another $200 is nothing in the scheme of what you already paid (for nothing) so get it done man and let us know the outcome~!
2002 DODGE Durango SXT, 4.7L V8 32 teeth... Nicknamed: GREEN MONSTER
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Maybe you just have a bad sensor
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I agree with the advise, EXCEPT I would avoid ANY dealer at all costs. The way corporate is, they screw their techs just as badly as they screw their customers. As a result, techs don't get paid like they should, and this encourages parts-swapping instead of REAL diagnostics. You'll end up THOUSANDS in the hole only to find NOTHING was fixed! I hear this story over and over and over again from many of my customers. You'll be better served finding a small, local mom & pop shop, especially one that specializes in electrical and driveability issues.
There may be a handful of dealers out there that don't fit this mold, but, buyer beware, as they say!
There may be a handful of dealers out there that don't fit this mold, but, buyer beware, as they say!
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Dave:
I'm really surprised you are not seeing any codes. The throttle pedal is an unit of its own. You may have an issue there. I believe there is a calibration procedure you could try, but don't have that process in memory.
A tune up done correctly, should not cause what you are seeing. Were the proper plugs installed?
How many miles on the vehicle?
Don
I'm really surprised you are not seeing any codes. The throttle pedal is an unit of its own. You may have an issue there. I believe there is a calibration procedure you could try, but don't have that process in memory.
A tune up done correctly, should not cause what you are seeing. Were the proper plugs installed?
How many miles on the vehicle?
Don
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What about the pedal it self could it be a problem after doing all this no code has ever came up about it but can it be the cause of it I just seen somebody else say it could not even the shop has said anything about it
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