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5.7L to 6.4L Swap

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Cbort

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Going to start a thread on this project and hopefully get some of my questions answered as they come up.

My wife’s 2014 DD RT was purchased brand new and we absolutely love it. We recently were heading back from a family trip to Mississippi and hit a deer as well as developed an issue with the engine. The vehicle has 18X,XXX miles and the 5.7L developed a lifter issue in the 3rd cylinder. Long story short, shop have us 2 options $5,000 to repair with warning of metal from cam lobe that would potentially cause issues in the future or $6,700+ labor for remanufactured 5.7 replacement. I added two more options for my wife with Option #3 a new vehicle or Option #4, convert her DD RT to as close to a DD SRT as possible and keep the no monthly payments that we’ve enjoyed the past few years.

As you are aware, we’ve decided to go with Option #4.

Our insurance check from the deer 🦌 accident was very generous as well. We walked away with nearly $8k to basically replace the front bumper and hood. The adjuster wrote the quote for a bunch of other pieces that didn’t need replaced.

Thus far, I have purchased for the Swap:
-Used 59,XXX Engine/Transmission 6.4L 392 HEMI from a 2015 Charger which included PCM and complete engine wire harness.
-Diablosport Trinity 2 (T2 EX) Platinum Tuner
-plans are to use my current 8sp transmission
Still need to purchase for the Swap:

-Throttle body
-Air Intake
-Exhaust

After doing some research from another member, I will probably need to go with complete swap of headers, mids, etc. since the 6.4L exhaust manifolds are 3” and the RT is 2.5”.

So now for some questions:

-What other issues do you see that I may come across?
-Are all 5.7/6.1/6.4 long tubes interchangeable?
-Am I able to purchase and utilize a newer unlocked DD SRT computer? Would the new computer bring my UConnect up to date and program it as an SRT?
 
#3 ·
So all 6.4 and 6.2 are 2.75 not 3". I would use the stock 6.4 manifolds unless you really plan on some heavy performance mods. BORLA makes very good exhaust systems for your build. You will just need to decide if you want total loud with the ATAK or not so loud with the sport. I would contact Sean at HEMIFEVER for the tune for your swap. He can do the calibration and provide support in the future. Good luck with your project.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Wanted to get someone’s recommendation regarding Option #5.

I have an opportunity to pick up a Magnuson TVS2300 2011+ 6.4L Challenger/Charger kit for $2000. The kit was I nstalled on the guy’s Charger only to discover when tuning it that his vehicle had been in a prior accident that he was not aware of causing the belt alignment to be off enough to shred them. He ran out of funds for the project and gave up, removed it and listed it for sale.
The only real area of concern that I have is the tune. The 6.4 swap into a Durango is one aspect, but then adding the Supercharger I am going to assume would potentially go from a tune from HEMIFEVER to physically having to put the DD on a Dyno to be tuned. Or am I over thinking this?
 
#6 ·
Cbort said:
Wanted to get someone’s recommendation regarding Option #5.

I have an opportunity to pick up a Magnuson TVS2300 2011+ 6.4L Challenger/Charger kit for $2000. The kit was I nstalled on the guy’s Charger only to discover when tuning it that his vehicle had been in a prior accident that he was not aware of causing the belt alignment to be off enough to shred them. He ran out of funds for the project and gave up, removed it and listed it for sale.
The only real area of concern that I have is the tune. The 6.4 swap into a Durango is one aspect, but then adding the Supercharger I am going to assume would potentially go from a tune from HEMIFEVER to physically having to put the DD on a Dyno to be tuned. Or am I over thinking this?
Click to expand...
I would just plan on a dyno tune anyway. This will give you the best results without having to data log and go back and forth. The 2014 ecu will control the 6.4 engine fine, but if you do a trans tune, it will get tricky. The 14-15 did not have selectable modes and HP tuners is set up for the 16 and up. It can be done, but just not as easy. You can use the 5.7 harness if you need to. The only difference is the SRV control for the intake manifold. Your 2014 ecm is not set up for the SRV. MMX makes a SRV control that is very easy. Plan on new motor mounts, 392 are a different part number than 5.7. You will also need the evap purge valve and line for the 392. I mounted mine behind the captain side valve cover with a piece of flat aluminum stock bent to the right angle. You need the fuel line extension also. The exhaust is tricky also. Do you know if the manifolds you have are the same as a Jeep or Durango? If so, you can use all SRT parts. If not, you could go custom. When I first did mine , I ran the stock mid pipes and Corsa exhaust. I found the right size collector pipe, but not the correct flange. I had a set made out of stainless steel. If you can afford it, go ahead and get the new exhaust. There a recap video on my YouTube that talks about most of this. I think I had the part numbers for the collector kit I bought. On the supercharger, you shouldn’t run more than 6 psi of boost to be on the safe side. This may give you about 150hp.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Starting the swap next week. Took a vacation starting this weekend to start the prep work and shop all set up to start it.
Decided to do the swap prior to doing any performance upgrades to ensure:
#1 that the donor engine is as advertised and mechanically sound
#2 that no other issues come up with simply getting the DDRT back in running condition.
#3 only have 1 week to complete the swap and can’t make up my mind on which direction I want to go regarding NA or boost route building the internals.

I purchased some JGC 6.4 SRT headers and still have to choose an intake.
wish me luck!
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Parts are finally starting to arrive. Go figure the 2 main parts I’m still waiting on are the Exhaust Manifold gaskets and the engine/tranny mounts.

Parts that have arrived as of today:
-JGC Mopar exhaust manifolds
-AFE MagnumForce Intake
-J&L oil separator

Image

Image
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
awehlage said:
I was wanting the Pro5R filter so that’s probably why. Looking forward to your progress!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thanks! Just found out that the heads will be done next week and the build on the following week. Will keep you updated.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Update: Swap is taking a bit longer than expected due to work schedule and parts availability.

5.7 has been removed
Image


Some things I’d recommend when pulling out an engine:
-painters tape
-sharpie
-baggies
Image


I have labeled every plug that was disconnected. All screws, nuts, bolts, hardware etc. that I had to remove were either stuck back into their place finger tight or placed into baggies and labeled.
Image


Image
 
#16 ·
Very organized. Great pictures. Any updates?

I am still working on my 5.7L to 6.4L Swap:
www.dodgedurango.net

SRT 6.4L Performance Upgrade Combination - Forged...

Looking for SRT 6.4L actual Dyno WHP and torque numbers on upgrades including Forged Pistons/Rods + Camshaft + Forced Induction + Tune. Please provide forged internals specs, compression ratio, Camshaft, Porting, Forced Induction, Boost PSI, and Tune Info. Like to know how good that kind of...
www.dodgedurango.net www.dodgedurango.net
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Sorry for the lack of updates! Here is a quick update to get the thread back up to speed.

I thought something was wrong when the new oil pan arrived. It looked a lot like the Charger/Challenger pan I pulled off.
Sure enough the test fit confirmed this, and there is an additional bracket that the Durango/Jeeps have that the Challengers/Chargers do not that will not fit with the wrong pan.

So, new pan ordered shipped and mounted. (After snapping off a bolt in the block) fixed that and we were back on track.
Image


Image
 

Attachments

#18 · (Edited)
Great to see progress again on your build!

I was a couple months ahead of your build but I am currently stalled. I ran into the same issue with the oil pan also and ordered the correct one new. Apparently there were only two new OEM SRT 8-Speed ones in stock for the entire county. Probably should have looked for a used one.
The first SRT Oil pan was for the 6-Speed Trans. It has the transmission mounting bracket built into the oil pan. The SRT Oil pan for the 8-Speed does not have the transmission bracket built-in and it mounts separately. The bracket is the same one used on the 5.7L, Jeep SRT, and 2018+ Durango SRT 6.4L. The 5.7L plastic oil pan is not really a serviceable option with the integrated plastic oil pickup tube and plastic windage tray.

My progress is currently stalled due to tuning issues. I am using the HPTuners platform and not sure what the issue is other than it is constantly pulling fuel by 30% on the fuel trims. The fuel pressure is steady at 60psi without using the pump booster. I definitely need help on this.
If you know anyone who has some tune ideas, this would be greatly appreciated. . . Currently, I can tell you only what is NOT the cause of the problem. It does not any make sense.

The 2.9L Whipple uses the standard stock 80MM throttle body and 6 rib pulley system system for the 5.7L and 6.4L on the Durango and Jeep Cherokee. I think the stock 6.2L Hellcat uses an 88MM throttle body and a company makes a 102MM throttle body that fits on the 2.9L Whipple for the 5.7L and 6.4L. Not sure if this is something that will help with my AFR issue. Seems like it is not getting enough air at idle. I think the 6.4L airflow settings in the tune are closer to the 6.1L than the 5.7L.

Anyway, if you want to use a new 5.7L starter, you can, but you need to use the 5.7L flex plate also because the gear teeth are different on the 6.4L starter and flex plate. The 5.7L starters are fine and will save you +200 dollars. If you want to get a 2800 stall converter for the 8-Speed, Circle D sells one that is good for 1,000HP and it has a stronger lock-up clutch. This will require a trans-tune for about $400. I am hoping that the lock-up works good when cruising so my RPMs are not too high. The 8-Speed trans may be challenged trying to handle the HP even with torque management but not sure where the numbers will come in at. I was told that the boost hit 15psi at half throttle during some data log test drives.

The picture you posted looks like the oil filter adaptor has the oil cooler. This requires the water pump with the port for that. I have the 5.7L accessory setup with the oil filter adaptor (without cooler), standard water pump, and timing cover with an upgraded alternator.

Are you using the 2018 Durango SRT 6.4L accessories and timing cover? Not sure what the differences are. What supercharger are you planning on using? Looking forward to your next update!
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Enthusiast said:
Great to see progress again on your build!

I was a couple months ahead of your build but I am currently stalled. I ran into the same issue with the oil pan also and ordered the correct one new. Apparently there were only two new OEM SRT 8-Speed ones in stock for the entire county. Probably should have looked for a used one.
The first SRT Oil pan was for the 6-Speed Trans. It has the transmission mounting bracket built into the oil pan. The SRT Oil pan for the 8-Speed does not have the transmission bracket built-in and it mounts separately. The bracket is the same one used on the 5.7L, Jeep SRT, and 2018+ Durango SRT 6.4L. The 5.7L plastic oil pan is not really a serviceable option with the integrated plastic oil pickup tube and plastic windage tray.

My progress is currently stalled due to tuning issues. I am using the HPTuners platform and not sure what the issue is other than it is constantly pulling fuel by 30% on the fuel trims. The fuel pressure is steady at 60psi without using the pump booster. I definitely need help on this.
If you know anyone who has some tune ideas, this would be greatly appreciated. . . Currently, I can tell you only what is NOT the cause of the problem. It does not any make sense.

The 2.9L Whipple uses the standard stock 80MM throttle body and 6 rib pulley system system for the 5.7L and 6.4L on the Durango and Jeep Cherokee. I think the stock 6.2L Hellcat uses an 88MM throttle body and a company makes a 102MM throttle body that fits on the 2.9L Whipple for the 5.7L and 6.4L. Not sure if this is something that will help with my AFR issue. Seems like it is not getting enough air at idle. I think the 6.4L airflow settings in the tune are closer to the 6.1L than the 5.7L.

Anyway, if you want to use a new 5.7L starter, you can, but you need to use the 5.7L flex plate also because the gear teeth are different on the 6.4L starter and flex plate. The 5.7L starters are fine and will save you +200 dollars. If you want to get a 2800 stall converter for the 8-Speed, Circle D sells one that is good for 1,000HP and it has a stronger lock-up clutch. This will require a trans-tune for about $400. I am hoping that the lock-up works good when cruising so my RPMs are not too high. The 8-Speed trans may be challenged trying to handle the HP even with torque management but not sure where the numbers will come in at. I was told that the boost hit 15psi at half throttle during some data log test drives.

The picture you posted looks like the oil filter adaptor has the oil cooler. This requires the water pump with the port for that. I have the 5.7L accessory setup with the oil filter adaptor (without cooler), standard water pump, and timing cover with an upgraded alternator.

Are you using the 2018 Durango SRT 6.4L accessories and timing cover? Not sure what the differences are. What supercharger are you planning on using? Looking forward to your next update!
Click to expand...

I have more updates that I will post hopefully a bit later tonight. I am currently still wrenching!

I decided to keep the build simple for now since my wife will be the main driver. When she decides to get something different, I will keep the Durango as an extra vehicle and build up the internals for forced air. For now, just simply converting the RT to as close to an SRT as I can get it.

Thanks for the heads up on the starter. I just installed the 5.7 starter last night. Now I guess I will have to pull it and install the 6.4 starter like you had pointed out. I am using the 6.4 flex plate, so from what you are saying, that won’t work. That saved me a headache down the road!
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Enthusiast said:
Great to see progress again on your build!

I was a couple months ahead of your build but I am currently stalled. I ran into the same issue with the oil pan also and ordered the correct one new. Apparently there were only two new OEM SRT 8-Speed ones in stock for the entire county. Probably should have looked for a used one.
The first SRT Oil pan was for the 6-Speed Trans. It has the transmission mounting bracket built into the oil pan. The SRT Oil pan for the 8-Speed does not have the transmission bracket built-in and it mounts separately. The bracket is the same one used on the 5.7L, Jeep SRT, and 2018+ Durango SRT 6.4L. The 5.7L plastic oil pan is not really a serviceable option with the integrated plastic oil pickup tube and plastic windage tray.

My progress is currently stalled due to tuning issues. I am using the HPTuners platform and not sure what the issue is other than it is constantly pulling fuel by 30% on the fuel trims. The fuel pressure is steady at 60psi without using the pump booster. I definitely need help on this.
If you know anyone who has some tune ideas, this would be greatly appreciated. . . Currently, I can tell you only what is NOT the cause of the problem. It does not any make sense.

The 2.9L Whipple uses the standard stock 80MM throttle body and 6 rib pulley system system for the 5.7L and 6.4L on the Durango and Jeep Cherokee. I think the stock 6.2L Hellcat uses an 88MM throttle body and a company makes a 102MM throttle body that fits on the 2.9L Whipple for the 5.7L and 6.4L. Not sure if this is something that will help with my AFR issue. Seems like it is not getting enough air at idle. I think the 6.4L airflow settings in the tune are closer to the 6.1L than the 5.7L.

Anyway, if you want to use a new 5.7L starter, you can, but you need to use the 5.7L flex plate also because the gear teeth are different on the 6.4L starter and flex plate. The 5.7L starters are fine and will save you +200 dollars. If you want to get a 2800 stall converter for the 8-Speed, Circle D sells one that is good for 1,000HP and it has a stronger lock-up clutch. This will require a trans-tune for about $400. I am hoping that the lock-up works good when cruising so my RPMs are not too high. The 8-Speed trans may be challenged trying to handle the HP even with torque management but not sure where the numbers will come in at. I was told that the boost hit 15psi at half throttle during some data log test drives.

The picture you posted looks like the oil filter adaptor has the oil cooler. This requires the water pump with the port for that. I have the 5.7L accessory setup with the oil filter adaptor (without cooler), standard water pump, and timing cover with an upgraded alternator.

Are you using the 2018 Durango SRT 6.4L accessories and timing cover? Not sure what the differences are. What supercharger are you planning on using? Looking forward to your next update!
Click to expand...

The 6.4 has the oil cooler yes, and from what I have researched, the Jeep SRT motors utilize this as well. I am a little confused on a few things and at this point still doing some research. Here is what I know or have researched.

-my 6.4 engine is from a Charger

-the 6.4 engine came with radiator lines that do have the split hose for the smaller line to run to one of the oil cooler fittings

-pictures that I have seen online of Jeep 6.4 motors utilize a Heater Attachment that is basically a nipple with threads that threads into the front of the water pump. This nipple is attached to a line and runs down to the other oil cooler fitting to complete the circulation.

-my engine has a plug in that threaded hole on the front of the water pump. (Charger 6.4 water pump has a smaller hole than the 5.7 Durango water pump.)

-the Charger 6.4 water pump has an extra fitting on the thermostat housing where the upper radiator hose attaches.

-so my questions at this point are:

Which water pump should I use?
Which thermostat housing should I use?

At this point I could run it multiple ways:

I could run the 6.4 water pump with 5.7 thermostat housing and pick up the threaded fitting.
—(Seems restrictively smaller)

I could run the 6.4 water pump with the 6.4 thermostat housing and keep the plug installed.
—(not sure if flow from this position would be better or worse compared to the front of the water pump?)

I could run the 5.7 water pump and thermostat housing which would give me a larger threaded fitting.
—(Again, not sure which position gives better/adequate flow.)

Lastly, I could run the 5.7 water pump and 6.4 thermostat housing. But I feel like this would be taking 2 unknowns which seems like a bad idea.

I am leaning towards 6.4 water pump, 6.4 thermostat as it’s already installed.

Thoughts?

As for the rest of the accessories, I have everything for both the 5.7 and 6.4. Really the only 5.7 items I have used were the starter, soon to be switched out, and the power steering pump.

The 6.4 had the reservoir sitting on top of the power steering pump and 5.7 has the reservoir on the driver side of the engine bay. I didn’t see any reason to tear out the 5.7 lines and run all new lines for the 6.4 set up. Any thoughts on this?
 
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