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2018 3.6L Durango with Check Engine Light and Multiple Cam Codes

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R

rawright

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Several months ago, my 2018 3.6L Durango SXT Plus had the check engine light come on with several codes, P0017, P0300, P0303, P0390, P0000A and P0394. Yeah that's a lot of codes! The vehicle has just over 120,000 miles on it. I looked up all the codes and was pretty sure it wouldn't be a cheap fix. The car had very bad idle issues and ran like crap, so I registered it non-op and it has been sitting because I didn't have the money to fix it. I towed it to the dealer yesterday because my wife needs a car to drive and the service department is telling me they need to do a compression test on it, and it could have a major engine problem :(. They want almost $900 just to diagnose the problem! Needless to say, I am totally pissed to find out a car that I still owe $20,000 on might need a new engine with only 120,000 miles on it!!!

Anyone else have a similar problem with their 3.6L PentaStar?

Thanks in advance for any help,
Robert
 
#2 ·
RR:
Welcome to DDN. Are you hearing any unusual metallic sounds from the top of the engine? Some 3.6 engines have an issue with their rocker arms and lifters. There is another D owner here, with 75k on his '15, with similar issues. The quote was $1600 for lifters, and $3400 if the cams also need to be replaced.
If you are not hearing weird sounds, are you on the oem battery? If so, have that properly load tested to rule out any issues there. BTW, your plugs should have been replaced around 100k. Was that done?

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Yes I have noticed minor valve train noise for about 20,0000 miles which I was bummed about seeing as the mileage on the motor was still fairly low and I started looking into that when it coded and I parked it. I haven't changed the plugs yet also I am still on the OEM battery. I was figuring I would have them do the plugs while it was in the shop this time around.

Robert
 
#4 ·
Robert:
Agreed on having the plugs done when you get in there (or someone someone does) to look into this. I recall one or two other D owners with '18 models, having this same issue. FCA undated the 3.6L for 2016, but the rocker arm/lifter problem remains. With vehicle pricing these days, as long as the rest of your D is in good shape, I would absolutely repair, and drive it.

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Got the verdict from the dealer today after spending $850 just to find out what was wrong with it. The dealer's mechanic told me that the number 3 cylinder was down to around 140lbs on compression when it is supposed to be at around 160+. They also did a leak down test on that cylinder, and it is losing 30% down into the crankcase. The mechanic stated that I am going to need a new long block. So now my 2018 Durango with just over 120,000 miles on it that I still owe $20,000+ on needs a new motor to the tune of $12,000! Needless to say, I am pissed beyond words! I did not abuse this motor plus did all of the maintenance and most of my mileage was done on the freeway. I have no clue what I am going to do at this point after I have it towed back to my house broken. I don't even have the $5000 just for the cost of the long block and try to put the motor in myself! I'm debating whether I want to try getting a second opinion or not seeing as the first estimate cost me so much because they had to remove the intake manifold to get at the number 3 spark plug for the compression test. I am also debating just having the finance company come and get the scrap heap off my driveway and be done with it! What kind of junk motor only gets 120,000 miles before it craps out??? A car's motor should last at least as long as the loan to buy it! Needless to say, this will be my last Dodge vehicle.
 
#6 ·
They know the air is going down to the crankcase? This could also be a bent valve. It doesn't sound like they pulled the head but did they inspect the valve train?
 
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#7 ·
I hear you and agree...engines should go 300,000 miles min. IMO without any major internal repair needed.
So your choices are to try fixing yourself or find someone to install a used engine from a low mileage wreck.
I'll hook you up with a couple videos showing you a repair procedure...that may fix...though I do want to know the cause of the low compression reading.
 
#8 ·
Long block? How did the mechanic come up with that? Without knowing where the bleed down is coming from, they can't tell you a long block.
Could be head issues like Tin Foil Hat suggested or a bad piston ring but I highly doubt both are bad.
Long blocks are a much more lucrative option for a dealer. Also see if you have a mechanic service in your area that installs Jasper remanufactured ENGINES.
I would go that route before the dealer since your DD has 120k on it.
 
#9 ·
Agree with the others here. If the DD is currently immovable in the driveway, I'd first pay to have a mobile tech come out and do proper testing to identify the low compression source. Then, if it turns out an engine is required, I'd get an estimate on having a remaned short block installed. If the issue isn't head/valve train related, no need for a long block at extra cost.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Chase300 - thanks for posting those MotorCity Mechanic rocker arm replacement videos. Hope I don't have to do the job, but now that I see it being done, it really isn't that bad of a job with the correct tools. Of course with the engine in the vehicle it may pose added drama.

 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
For those that are curious this is what the official diagnosis on the invoice was. I just got them to send it to me. I thought I would have gotten a copy of it when I paid the $850 bill, but I had to request a copy of it to be sent to my email. At this point I am flat broke and I need to do some work on my truck which is working, so I am going wait and try to decide if I want to spend the cash on another diagnosis or start saving for a new motor. The diagnosis on the invoice looks pretty grim. :(

Image
 
#15 ·
If the dealer replaced your radio under warranty as you state in your other thread, why is the engine not covered under that same warranty? Am I reading something wrong?
 
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#17 · (Edited)
w:
As long as you have another vehicle to drive, I'd hold for a bit, and investigate your options. I very much feel, that you can get your D back on the road, for no more than half of the ridiculous $12k estimate.
The dealer is doing what is best for them. They don't care to properly diagnose the issue, and instead just replace the engine itself. Unless there has been so much metal pieces/parts running around in there, the bottom end should be ok. If not, Find a lower mile engine, and drop it in there.

Don
 
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#19 · (Edited)
Re the proposed action, I'm glad to see someone taking some action on it. I have some friends with a '15 Jeep Grand Cherokee, that appears to be headed down this road. Their Jeep is now over 100k, but has had the noise since they bought it with 55-60k on it. According to them, when they questioned it, their "dealer" advised that the noise was normal for the 3.6L engine

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for their helpful replies. I think I might have sent an email to that class action link already, but I will definitely double check. The class action suit website I emailed only spawned a phone call from a lemon law attorney looking for low mileage below 60,000 with similar problems to mine. I guess once the warrantee runs out there's no money in it for them. They basically told me I was screwed LOL! :LOL:
 
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