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NcTarHeel

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
04 limited with the 5.7 hmi. She wouldn't start the other day and was giving the signs of a bad starter. The starter was replaced to to my surprise it still doesn't even want to crank. Alt and batt were replaced together less than a year ago. battery sits at 12.6 volts. When the key is in the run position I can hear and feel a loud clicking from the ASD relay. Swapped it out and the new one clicks the same and it doesn't want to even try and start. Both key fobs have good batteries. No clue where to look next
 
ASD relay is controlled by the PCM through the FCM. Possible bad grounding or poor connection for the clicking relay.

Are you saying the static reading of the battery is 12.6 volts without the engine running? Is that with the Ignition switch Off or On?
 
Multiple possibilities here.

OPERATION
The starting system components form two separate circuits. A high-amperage feed circuit that feeds the starter
motor between 150 and 350 amperes (700 amperes - diesel engine), and a low-amperage control circuit that operates
on less than 20 amperes. The high-amperage feed circuit components include the battery, the battery cables,
the contact disc portion of the starter solenoid, and the starter motor. The low-amperage control circuit components
include the ignition switch, the clutch pedal position switch (manual transmission), the park/neutral position switch
(automatic transmission), the starter relay, the electromagnetic windings of the starter solenoid, and the connecting
wire harness components.
8F - 38 STARTING HB
If the vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, it has a clutch pedal position switch installed in series
between the ignition switch and the coil battery terminal of the starter relay. This normally open switch prevents the
starter relay from being energized when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position, unless the clutch pedal is
depressed. This feature prevents starter motor operation while the clutch disc and the flywheel are engaged. The
starter relay coil ground terminal is always grounded on vehicles with a manual transmission.
If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, battery voltage is supplied through the low-amperage
control circuit to the coil battery terminal of the starter relay when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position.
The park/neutral position switch is installed in series between the starter relay coil ground terminal and ground. This
normally open switch prevents the starter relay from being energized and the starter motor from operating unless
the automatic transmission gear selector is in the Neutral or Park positions.
When the starter relay coil is energized, the normally open relay contacts close. The relay contacts connect the
relay common feed terminal to the relay normally open terminal. The closed relay contacts energize the starter
solenoid coil windings.
The energized solenoid pull-in coil pulls in the solenoid plunger. The solenoid plunger pulls the shift lever in the
starter motor. This engages the starter overrunning clutch and pinion gear with the starter ring gear.
As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, the solenoid contact disc completes the high-amperage starter
feed circuit and energizes the solenoid plunger hold-in coil. Current now flows between the solenoid battery terminal
and the starter motor, energizing the starter.
Once the engine starts, the overrunning clutch protects the starter motor from damage by allowing the starter pinion
gear to spin faster than the pinion shaft. When the ignition switch is released to the On position, the starter relay
coil is de-energized. This causes the relay contacts to open. When the relay contacts open, the starter solenoid
plunger hold-in coil is de-energized.
When the solenoid plunger hold-in coil is de-energized, the solenoid plunger return spring returns the plunger to its
relaxed position. This causes the contact disc to open the starter feed circuit, and the shift lever to disengage the
overrunning clutch and pinion gear from the starter ring gear.

With no change in voltage when ignition is turned to start there's no load to bring it down.

Have you cleaned /inspected the battery terminal clamps? They're pretty cheesy in construction and it's no unusual for them to crack or corrode and cause issues. Again....check the battery negative cables to chassis ground.

Possible ignition switch issue?

Do your headlights work with normal brightness?
 
Starting System Diagnosis
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
STARTER FAILS TO
OPERATE.
1. Battery discharged or
faulty.
1. Refer to Battery. Charge or replace battery, if required.
2. Starting circuit wiring
faulty.
2. Refer to 8, Wiring Diagrams. Test and repair starter
feed and/or control circuits, if required.
3. Starter relay faulty. 3. Refer to Starter Relay in Diagnosis and Testing.
Replace starter relay if required.
4. Ignition switch faulty. 4. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder.
Replace ignition switch if required.
5. Clutch pedal position
switch faulty.
5. Refer to Clutch Pedal Position Switch.
6. Park/Neutral position
switch faulty or
misadjusted.
6. Refer to Park/Neutral Position Switch. Replace
park/neutral position switch if required.
7. Starter solenoid faulty. 7. Refer to Starter Motor. Replace starter motor assembly
if required.
8. Starter motor faulty. 8. If all other starting system components and circuits test
OK, replace starter motor.
 
² Battery - Visually inspect battery for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded cable connections.
Determine state-of-charge and cranking capacity of battery. Charge or replace battery if required.
Refer to Battery in 8, Battery. Note: If equipped with diesel engine, a dual battery system may be
used, and both batteries must be inspected.
² Ignition Switch - Visually inspect ignition switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded
wire harness connections. Refer to Ignition Switch and Key Lock Cylinder.
² Clutch Pedal Position Switch - If equipped with manual transmission, visually inspect clutch pedal position
switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Refer to Clutch
Pedal Position Switch in 6, Clutch.
² Park/Neutral Position Switch - If equipped with automatic transmission, visually inspect park/neutral position
switch for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire harness connections. Refer to
Park/Neutral Position Switch in 21, Transmission.
² Starter Relay - Visually inspect starter relay for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire
harness connections.
² Starter Motor - Visually inspect starter motor for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded wire
harness connections.
8F - 40 STARTING HB
² Starter Solenoid - Visually inspect starter solenoid for indications of physical damage and loose or corroded
wire harness connections.
² Wiring - Visually inspect wire harnesses for damage. Repair or replace any faulty wiring, as required. Refer
to 8, Wiring Diagrams.
 
You could try jumping out the contacts of the starter relay to verify that circuit works.

What about the fuses for the feeds of the starter relay?

Coil side feed is from Fuse 32 in the junction block panel near the drivers side footwell. It's 10 amp
Contact side feed is Fuse 1 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood and is a 30 amp.

Don't just visually check them. Put a multimeter on them and verify they're good.
 
04 limited with the 5.7 hmi. She wouldn't start the other day and was giving the signs of a bad starter. The starter was replaced to to my surprise it still doesn't even want to crank. Alt and batt were replaced together less than a year ago. battery sits at 12.6 volts. When the key is in the run position I can hear and feel a loud clicking from the ASD relay. Swapped it out and the new one clicks the same and it doesn't want to even try and start. Both key fobs have good batteries. No clue where to look next
Check the gtound connection and 12 volt feed to the PDC.
 
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