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Brake caliper nonsense!

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Don Fox

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I believe I mentioned the other day that my D has been having an intermittent sticking rear driver side caliper. So, I stopped by AZ the other day, and picked up two rebuilt rear calipers with the brackets. I got the driver side caliper and bracket installed and bled without any drama.

Today, since we have a sunny 60+ degree day here in SW Ohio, I decided to tackle the passenger side which WAS working fine as far as I could tell.
After doing pretty much what I did to install the driver side, I found that I had a small drip where the line attaches to the caliper. I removed the line, checked and cleaned the area, and reinstalled the line. Still, have the drip.

Went back to AZ, and got a pack of the copper washers used where the line attaches as well as a second caliper for that side. Replacing the washer(s) made no difference. I am tightening the banjo bolt the same level that I did the driver side. I do not want to strip or break the bolt.

Next up, I removed (again) the newly installed rebuilt caliper to compare it to the second one I brought home today. The mounting surfaces look the same. I did wire brush the contact surfaces on each side of the hose, but did not go crazy on it. I figured that the copper washers should seal things anyway. The drip has gotten better but is now more like a seep.

Has anyone had this experience? It sure made what started out to be a fun, successful, project anything but.

Don
 
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#2 ·
If you've checked the caliper mounting surface and replaced the washers, I'd replace the line and banjo bolt to make sure you have all good surfaces for a good seal. Since it started when you changed the caliper, I really suspect the replacement caliper is to blame.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Racer:
Thanks for your input. I have gotten the hose on order. Hopefully the hose will remedy the issue. I have soaked the coupling where the rubber meets the rigid line several times with PB Blaster.

I'll let you know how it goes................

Don
 
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#4 ·
Before you take it all apart again, I would order a spare banjo bolt or two. My only time replacing a caliper, I had the same leaking and sure enough I snapped it. Took almost a week to get the replacement. Don't recall what the problem was, I think the bolt was just worn if that makes sense. The new bolt worked great.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
The insanity continues!!!!!!!

Today, I installed a new flex hose on the troublesome passenger side along with new (for the 3rd time) copper washers, and the new banjo bolt that came with the now 2nd rebuilt caliper. Still leaking! Next, I replaced the new banjo bolt with the original oem one just for the hell of it. I also looked up the torque spec (250 inch pounds/20 foot pounds) in my factory manual, and tightened her up. STILL LEAKS!!!!!!!

This is beyond belief, and FAR beyond ridiculous! I am approaching the proverbial rag in the gas tank solution.

:0( Don
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Racer:
I sure hope so. I am headed back to AZ for my 3rd caliper! How in the hell can you get TWO bad rebuilt calipers?

:0(
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
After installing the 3rd Duralast caliper with the included new copper washers and banjo bolt, it appears that the issue has been resolved. I am typing "quietly" lol so Mr. Murphy the bane to every mechanics (used loosely) existence is not able to rear his ugly head yet again!

I will inquire as to where they are sourced from when I am returning the two brand new cores I have tomorrow. Gonna let it sit overnight, and then take it for a drive tomorrow, and then reinspect before declaring victory.

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
I just happened to be perusing the Gen 2 forum, and thought I would reread this thread. While doing so, I see that I did not come back and wrap things up.
Thankfully, the 3rd reman caliper did the trick. It has been 16 months since I had the issue, and all is still well.............

Don
 
#11 ·
I'm just in the middle of doing all four corners myself.

Reman calipers all around.
New hoses.
Mityvac Bleeder.
New bolts.
New banjos.
And I bought a dedicated diagnostic computer that does the bidirectional bleeding,
which I believe will get any air bubbles out of the system.(?)

This is my first full brake job,
so I'm kinda like the new kid at school on the first day,
with the book bag, haircut, sharpened pencils, lunch, shirt and tie, and glasses.
Just hope I don't get beat up at recess! LOL

I'll let you all know how it goes.
I'm probably a day away from completetion.

Ian
 
#14 ·
Scratch that.
The correct thread is M10-1.0
Not the one I listed above, which is M10-1.25

2001-2014 Mopar Banjo Bolt, Mounting 6508914AA | My Mopar Parts

2001-2014 Mopar part # 6508914AA - Banjo Bolt, Mounting
www.mymoparparts.com www.mymoparparts.com

www.4wheelparts.com

Crown Automotive Brake Hose Bolt - 6508914AA

Whether you're looking to maintain, optimize, or upgrade, we offer competitive pricing on Crown Automotive Brake Hose Bolt - 6508914AA for your Truck or Jeep at 4 Wheel Parts. With our selection of quality brands and expert advice, we help boost your vehicle's performance and make a statement on...
www.4wheelparts.com

Ian
 
#15 ·
Okay.
So the work is complete.

Here are some of the things worth sharing:

To get the retaining clip off on the front brake hoses,
PB Blaster . . . aaaaaand these,
.
They are GREAT for grabbing from a distance.
Get the 18" and you will be able to get the clips while lying down under the truck.

I used this for the physical bleeding.

SKF

www.skf.com www.skf.com
.
It's good kit.
A little pricey, but I figure with two vehicles,
it'll pay for itself after a year or two.

And last, but not least,
www.obdprice.com

Autel MaxiCOM MK808BT OBD2 Diagnostic Scan Tool Upgraded Version Of MK808 MX808 Code Reader

Autel MK808BT is a professional OBD2 scanner that supports Bluetooth connection & all system modules. Special functions like EPB, DPF, BMS and unique services IMMO. Sale online store at wholesale prices. Shipping From US/EU!
www.obdprice.com www.obdprice.com
.
This computer has a brake flush program,
and it is excellent.
I just did all four corners this morning,
and the pedal is nice and firm and right up at the top.
It also does a pretty decent amount of code reading,
and a few other bidirectional functions.

And I bought a Snap-on 3/8" Drive 7/16" wrench extender to torque the front brake hose connections.
It gives me just enough length on my 3/8" torque wrench to clear the crossmember/radiator hose,
and get the wrench to click.

Snap-on Store

shop.snapon.com shop.snapon.com

That's it.
Hope that helps.

Ian
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Ian:
I'm glad this all came together for you. I may invest in the Autel unit myself. Did you use one way bleeders, and then toggle the ABS pump to do the bleeding for you? What are the hose clips that you speak of? Did you replace the flex lines also?

Don
 
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#17 ·
Don Fox said:
Ian:
I'm glad is all came together for you. I may invest in the Autel unit myself. Did you use one way bleeders, and then toggle the ABS pump to do the bleeding for you? What are the hose clips that you speak of? Did you replace the flex lines also?

Don
Click to expand...
Hey Don,

I did a physical bleed with the Mityvac,
then today ran the bleed program on the Autel.

The bleed program gives you onscreen instructions:
1. Put the truck key in the On position, without starting the truck.
2. Depress the brake pedal.
3. Run the program while continually depressing and releasing the brake pedal.
While the program is running, the ABS pump is continually groaning and clicking.

The computer goes from the
Front/Left to the
Front/Right to the
Rear/Left to the
Rear/Right.

When the bleed is complete,
the pedal is VERY firm and activates the brakes within 1/2" depress.
I left the truck for about an hour,
and now the pedal movement is more typical.

I'm running some errands this afternoon.
I'll report back tonight.
 
#18 ·
The clips I'm referring to are the ones that hold the front brake hose in place were it passes through the frame to the brake lines.
I didn't do any brake line work.
Mine look pretty good, since the truck is California born and raised.
 
#19 ·
IGWright said:
Hey Don,

I did a physical bleed with the Mityvac,
then today ran the bleed program on the Autel.

The bleed program gives you onscreen instructions:
1. Put the truck key in the On position, without starting the truck.
2. Depress the brake pedal.
3. Run the program while continually depressing and releasing the brake pedal.
While the program is running, the ABS pump is continually groaning and clicking.

The computer goes from the
Front/Left to the
Front/Right to the
Rear/Left to the
Rear/Right.

When the bleed is complete,
the pedal is VERY firm and activates the brakes within 1/2" depress.
I left the truck for about an hour,
and now the pedal movement is more typical.

I'm running some errands this afternoon.
I'll report back tonight.
Click to expand...
Where do you bleed the system after running the bleed program on the Autel?
I am assuming there must be a bleed valve on the ABS unit?
 
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#20 ·
Vice-White said:
Where do you bleed the system after running the bleed program on the Autel?
I am assuming there must be a bleed valve on the ABS unit?
Click to expand...
I'm starting think I may have missed a step.
Autel states that some vehicles will need to have the bleeder valve open while the brake bleed is done.
I didn't do this and I just ran some errands,
and the brakes were back to Sponge Bob Square Pants.

So I'm gonna try bleeding with the Mityvac and the computer this afternoon,
and see if that works.

I had some vague notion of the computer shaking the air out of the system?

Anywhoo, if anybody has experience with this,
let me know.
Otherwise I'll bleed 'em again and report back.

Stay tuned.
 
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IGWright
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