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StageRight

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all, I have a tire pressure question.

I have oem Bridgestone 265/50R20 107T tires on my 19 gt plus. The sticker on the driver door seal says front cold pressure should be 33psi and the rears at 36psi.

yet every video I’ve seen in the last few weeks have shown those tire pressures at 40psi and up.
I’m new to owning a suv, so not sure what I’m missing.
Thanks for any clarification
 
That’s what I thought, just checking to make sure I’m not missing something, thank you.
I haven't had a front rear pressure bias vehicle in many years. I was surprised to see 33 , 36. I can say that my new General Grabbers def increase in air pressure on my commute. I've seen as high as 41 on the tears, and 38 on the fronts. It def feels over inflated per say even though tire brands/ spec may be ok to run higher. I like the grip the D has with the factory settings and notice no real increase in mpgs running the front equal to the rears. But dang if she isn't a heavy girl. 😂
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
I haven't had a front rear pressure bias vehicle in many years. I was surprised to see 33 , 36. I can say that my new General Grabbers def increase in air pressure on my commute. I've seen as high as 41 on the tears, and 38 on the fronts. It def feels over inflated per say even though tire brands/ spec may be ok to run higher. I like the grip the D has with the factory settings and notice no real increase in mpgs running the front equal to the rears. But dang if she isn't a heavy girl. 😂
 
Right. Now my 76 911S, I run 32 front, 36 rear.
Just had a “huh” moment when I’m seeing videos done on dealership lots showing psi over 40 on the tire pressure screen in the vehicle
When ever I had a trusted tire shop mount n balance ATs or MTs for my rigs, they would always put way to much air in them... Regardless of what I wrote on the WO.
For those types, it was a delicate balance between terrain and the chalk test... Lol...
I would experienced something similar and see 60-75 in them just bc the sidewalk said 80 🙄
Each truck had different suspension and weight which also dictated what to run... Wow, lol
 
Hello all, I have a tire pressure question.

I have oem Bridgestone 265/50R20 107T tires on my 19 gt plus. The sticker on the driver door seal says front cold pressure should be 33psi and the rears at 36psi.

yet every video I’ve seen in the last few weeks have shown those tire pressures at 40psi and up.
I’m new to owning a suv, so not sure what I’m missing.
Thanks for any clarification
My Hemi Citadel says to set them all to 36psi. So Dodge must be adding the additional 3psi in the fronts to compensate for the heavier Hemi engine over the V6.
But I agree to keep at factory settings.
 
Stage Right, this is a good thread topic and thanks for raising. Factories and dealers set the pressures high (usually at 40 psi or higher because the car will often sit in one spot on a cargo ship or parking lot for a long while and a higher inflation will reduce the potential for flat-spotting the contact patch while parked. It's frustrating that they let customers test drive these cars with over-inflated tires because it really does change the handling feel in a negative way, potentially turning buyers off. I always take my Longacre Race gauge with me to dealers and deflate the tires to door label spec before I drive to get accurate handling feel. I typically follow the Porsche rule of 69 degrees F as the setting temp and calculate one PSI per 10 degrees F up or down from there.

As for following the door label, it's good to adhere to this as a starting point, even when staggered - the manufacturers factor in all the testing and development data on front/rear weight bias of the vehicle, which wheels are driven (an added vector) and what the legal/mechanical strategy is regarding how much they want to dial out oversteer (rear-end slide). However, these are only starting figures, and if you read deeper into the owner's manual, you will often find a clause that states "inflate tires to higher PSI when vehicle is loaded. Load means cargo weight and it really does require (for tire bead and sidewall safety) a higher PSI to offset the higher load. **Also note that high speed is a factor here too. If you plan to do a run over 100mph or more, the rotational forces on the tire bead and sidewall are immense, creating enormous heat. A higher PSI will help reduce the strain on the tire - if you read any BMW Owner's Manual, there's a whole section on how to inflate tires for speeds over 100 mph. BMW, to their credit, recognize many owners will often do this, regardless of the local laws in any country they sell cars in.

So, if you're riding by yourself in the Durango with minimal load, simply follow the door pressures and you'll be good. If you pack the family and dog in and add 600-800 lbs to the car's gross weight, go ahead and add a few PSI to each tire. Yes, the tires will heat up from use and heat causes the pressures to rise, usually by 2-4 PSI depending on conditions.

Lastly, and the Challenger and Charger guys know this, if you track your car (meaning you're lapping at the limit for 20 minute sessions in a run group) then you should lower the pressures way below door label specs because in about 4 hard laps on a 1-3 mile circuit, your tires' PSI will jump up 7-8 PSI, easy. And if you started at door label, you'll soon be well into the 40s and slippery (sliding all over the place), losing time, getting frustrated, and damaging your tread life.
 
Stage Right, this is a good thread topic and thanks for raising. Factories and dealers set the pressures high (usually at 40 psi or higher because the car will often sit in one spot on a cargo ship or parking lot for a long while and a higher inflation will reduce the potential for flat-spotting the contact patch while parked. It's frustrating that they let customers test drive these cars with over-inflated tires because it really does change the handling feel in a negative way, potentially turning buyers off. I always take my Longacre Race gauge with me to dealers and deflate the tires to door label spec before I drive to get accurate handling feel. I typically follow the Porsche rule of 69 degrees F as the setting temp and calculate one PSI per 10 degrees F up or down from there.

As for following the door label, it's good to adhere to this as a starting point, even when staggered - the manufacturers factor in all the testing and development data on front/rear weight bias of the vehicle, which wheels are driven (an added vector) and what the legal/mechanical strategy is regarding how much they want to dial out oversteer (rear-end slide). However, these are only starting figures, and if you read deeper into the owner's manual, you will often find a clause that states "inflate tires to higher PSI when vehicle is loaded. Load means cargo weight and it really does require (for tire bead and sidewall safety) a higher PSI to offset the higher load. **Also note that high speed is a factor here too. If you plan to do a run over 100mph or more, the rotational forces on the tire bead and sidewall are immense, creating enormous heat. A higher PSI will help reduce the strain on the tire - if you read any BMW Owner's Manual, there's a whole section on how to inflate tires for speeds over 100 mph. BMW, to their credit, recognize many owners will often do this, regardless of the local laws in any country they sell cars in.

So, if you're riding by yourself in the Durango with minimal load, simply follow the door pressures and you'll be good. If you pack the family and dog in and add 600-800 lbs to the car's gross weight, go ahead and add a few PSI to each tire. Yes, the tires will heat up from use and heat causes the pressures to rise, usually by 2-4 PSI depending on conditions.

Lastly, and the Challenger and Charger guys know this, if you track your car (meaning you're lapping at the limit for 20 minute sessions in a run group) then you should lower the pressures way below door label specs because in about 4 hard laps on a 1-3 mile circuit, your tires' PSI will jump up 7-8 PSI, easy. And if you started at door label, you'll soon be well into the 40s and slippery (sliding all over the place), losing time, getting frustrated, and damaging your tread life.
Very well written!
 
Thanks! I love this stuff. Can talk about it all day long. And I hate long emails and posts and apologize for mine. But when it comes to tires, it's worth it.
I remember the days when we discussed cam specs, volumetric efficiency, head porting, sc and turbos and it was a second language.
Forums years ago indeed sharing and helpfull with the exception of race secrets. This was across several motorsports venues. It's was great. Now I'm just old and tired and just like to read. Still building stuff, just enjoying the time until I can't do it anymore.

Keep up the great posts! 😎
 
Totally relate. You too! I regularly track a 911 with PCA and the hair-splitting in that forum scene is ludicrous. Makes the goings-on in this forum seem tame. But, what i've learned quickly is that guys, all of us, spend so much time and money and mental focus on suspension or powertrain mods for track and street and then we spend literally all day at the track OBSESSIVELY trying to figure out our tires' proper pressures and temps, and we blame everything that goes wrong all day on the tires. It's hilarious. Tires and tire management become everything in the equation. If you ever get a chance to read a tire thread on Rennlist or other forums, they're up to 20 pages long in a matter of days.
 
Totally relate. You too! I regularly track a 911 with PCA and the hair-splitting in that forum scene is ludicrous. Makes the goings-on in this forum seem tame. But, what i've learned quickly is that guys, all of us, spend so much time and money and mental focus on suspension or powertrain mods for track and street and then we spend literally all day at the track OBSESSIVELY trying to figure out our tires' proper pressures and temps, and we blame everything that goes wrong all day on the tires. It's hilarious. Tires and tire management become everything in the equation. If you ever get a chance to read a tire thread on Rennlist or other forums, they're up to 20 pages long in a matter of days.
Before some forums became forums and we're just blogs of personal projects car, we were at the inception of a new forum and trial and error mods were then watched by big companies. While some of us were trying different cooling approaches for raw sea water to keep the intake charge cooler in SCd marine applications testing different pressures and flow and popping several intercooler cores and ultimately engine failure from water ingestion. The big companies then patent these ideas and profited from alot of our groups work... Still fun though... I was glad to see small start up companies grow from some of that. We all were friends through the sport. Good times back then...

Now there are to many nay sayers
Especially when my SCd Nissan Titan survived the Dyno pulls. The crank is good for 600+ hp, lol yeah oh the memories.
But I'm not brand loyal never was, had many since HS days, but TMI for the new world order forums.
 
My Hemi Citadel says to set them all to 36psi. So Dodge must be adding the additional 3psi in the fronts to compensate for the heavier Hemi engine over the V6.
But I agree to keep at factory settings.
My 2014 with the V6 is listed at 36/36 and my 2018 with the V6 is listed at 33/36. Neither one has the tow package.
 
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