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cchampagne232000

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm approaching 100k miles on my vehicle and am about to replace the front brakes for the second time. I have never replaced the rotors but it appears I'm a bit behind the recommended replacement schedule. I have no vibrations when stopping, the rotors feel smooth to the touch, and I'm not getting any unusual noises of any kind. Is this just something that should be done as a matter of course or could I ride this out?


If they should be replaced then any recommendations on a replacement rotor? There are some cheapos on amazon...but they are slotted/drilled and I'm not really interested in that.
 
#2 ·
I would replace them, just as cheap insurance.

It looks like the NAPA rotors are pretty good, from when I asked last week:

www.dodgedurango.net

2017 RT - cheap/best rotors/pads from local store, Napa...

wife's grocery getter, doesn't need anything fancy. NAPA seems to be more expensive than getting something "high end" off Amazon. all the threads said the PowerStops off Amazon warp instantly, and several ppl had warped several sets, so no need to do that. found some old threads: all R/Ts are...
www.dodgedurango.net www.dodgedurango.net
 
#3 · (Edited)
CC:
As long as they are not under thickness from wear or turning on a lathe, you can replace them, or not. I have never heard of or seen a rotor replacement schedule on time/mileage. It's more being worn out like the pads. If you choose to replace them, and get some good ones, you'll probably go another 100K.

Don
 
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#4 ·
If you want to replace the rotors I would check rock auto. I put some raybestos rotors on on the front of our old 2012 citadel and they were good. I would 100% recommend getting the ones that are coated for rust prevention. I did and liked that a lot. Otherwise you will have the inner part of the rotor turning orange. Rock auto has many brands that are coated.
 
#5 ·
If this was my car, and I didn't just want a new and fancier brake system, like the one on the SRT, then I would keep the rotors! If the pads do need to be changed then I would first use OEM parts, they do work very well, maybe a bit dusty, and if not OEM then I would go for a reputable company, like Brembo.

People in this forum and on many other applications than DDs, that I'm aware of always find something they don't like with a different brake system, more dust, squeals, less braking power, doesn't work in rain etc.

There are of course some which are better than OEM, and typically also more expensive! So you might want to get input from folks in this forum who actually have such installed, rather than just go for the least amount of $$, which in my experience always turns out to be more expensive, e.g. by pads which eat up rotors and the like.

As I said if it was my car :)

Preben
 
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#6 ·
IMHO just replace them. Good-quality rotors are inexpensive, and dorking around with getting rotors turned turns a one-hour project into an all-day project.

I have had very good results with Raybestos; they just changed their numbering system, what I've been getting thru the years are the "coated" rotors..
 
#7 ·
tomk said:
IMHO just replace them. Good-quality rotors are inexpensive, and dorking around with getting rotors turned turns a one-hour project into an all-day project.

I have had very good results with Raybestos; they just changed their numbering system, what I've been getting thru the years are the "coated" rotors..
Click to expand...
Yup. Coated raybestos are good rotors. I put them on our old 2012 Durango with car quest pads and had great results.
 
#9 ·
FWIW, running a brake lathe is a lost art, and most of the rotors I had turned, were ruined by the tech...

stuff I found by searching on this forum:

durango brake rotors

you have 350 mm fronts and 330 mm vented rears

You have BR6 thats 350 mm front 330 mm rear vented BR8 is same rotors with the special service police brake pads


ran napa ultra premium semi metallic on my last 3 durangos and that includes the Brembos.




I second that what Tom says, if the rear are vented the fronts are 350 mm and the rears are 330 mm. Also all the R/T and all the Hemi's have the 350 mm fronts

hank you for your interest in Powerstop. To further assist you can you please let me know the sub-model that you have..
- 330mm front disc; solid rear disc

- 350mm front disc; vented rear disc BR6 RPO code

- 350mm front disc; vented rear disc BR8 RPO code

BR8 is usually special service/police on mopars..

afaik the only thing that is different with special-service brakes is the pad material.

also afaik, all R/Ts are BR6 (350mm front, vented rear)

www.dodgedurango.net

Brake RPO Codes?

So what brakes do I have on the 2017 RT with the towing package. Thank you for your interest in Powerstop. To further assist you can you please let me know the sub-model that you have.. - 330mm front disc; solid rear disc - 350mm front disc; vented rear disc BR6 RPO code - 350mm front disc...
www.dodgedurango.net www.dodgedurango.net
 
#11 ·
Brakes are the one place you don't want to go cheap! Buy quality from reputable Auto Parts stores, or online sources. On my Dodge Truck, and Dodge Charger, when time for brakes, I replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, and new fluid all the way around. Nothing gets re-used! Overkill, probably so. Costly - YOU BET! But those vehicles stop on a dime! And when my '14 Citadel needs brakes, I will do the same. You most certainly can do this very cheaply (if cost is an issue). But sometimes, there is a price for that as well. At my old age of 56, I have learned from my muscle car days on how to do things cheaply, but, these days with these high tech vehicles, with more horsepower then my "oldies", (which I love), I like when I hit the brakes, from a hard acceleration now and then, that I have my vehicle safer then some on the road. Please remember that this is all - My Opinion! The above threads hold a lot of merit too - in my opinion. Good Luck!
 
#12 ·
Typically the rule is if you're not changing pad material you can keep the rotors....assuming they are not worn down below the min thickness...which typically is stamped on them.
The OEM pads are Ceramic, which are easy on rotors compared to a Semi-metallic pad, so your rotors will last a lot longer using a Ceramic pad as you see.
I do a visual like you have and if there is not evidence of wear, I roll with them as is...and just make sure I use the same pad.
If I change pad manufacturer or pad material, I change out the rotor.
 
#14 ·
artzie said:
Brakes are the one place you don't want to go cheap! Buy quality from reputable Auto Parts stores, or online sources. On my Dodge Truck, and Dodge Charger, when time for brakes, I replaced the calipers, rotors, pads, and new fluid all the way around. Nothing gets re-used! Overkill, probably so. Costly - YOU BET! But those vehicles stop on a dime! And when my '14 Citadel needs brakes, I will do the same. You most certainly can do this very cheaply (if cost is an issue). But sometimes, there is a price for that as well. At my old age of 56, I have learned from my muscle car days on how to do things cheaply, but, these days with these high tech vehicles, with more horsepower then my "oldies", (which I love), I like when I hit the brakes, from a hard acceleration now and then, that I have my vehicle safer then some on the road. Please remember that this is all - My Opinion! The above threads hold a lot of merit too - in my opinion. Good Luck!
Click to expand...
Just over 100K and changed rotors pads and one of the calipers was occasionally hanging up then really bound up so listen to his info if the calipers are old replace them. New pads will push the corroded caliper pistons in further creating binding
 
#15 ·
I'm a little puzzled when some of you are replacing calipers! Why?

I have never bought a new caliper in my life, and I'm closer to 81 than 18! In my experience, you rebuild them, if necessary. I just recently had hanging pistons on my Citroen and it scared you know what, out of me when I almost ran off the road! A few hours of work and I had all pistons (4 per wheel) moving freely again. That said I did buy a rebuild set of seals and will do a more proper job and take the calipers apart and VERY lightly sand, with 2000-3000 grit wet sandpaper using the brake fluid as my sanding liquid, and then install the new seals, and bingo no need to buy any new calipers. If needed then the pistons will get an even lighter cleaning but most likely not.

SO, could those of you who replace calipers please tell me why you do, just for my education, thanks

Just my 2 cents worth of life experience

Preben
 
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#16 ·
pridbor said:
I'm a little puzzled when some of you are replacing calipers! Why?

I have never bought a new caliper in my life, and I'm closer to 81 than 18! In my experience, you rebuild them, if necessary. I just recently had hanging pistons on my Citroen and it scared you know what, out of me when I almost ran off the road! A few hours of work and I had all pistons (4 per wheel) moving freely again. That said I did buy a rebuild set of seals and will do a more proper job and take the calipers apart and VERY lightly sand, with 2000-3000 grit wet sandpaper using the brake fluid as my sanding liquid, and then install the new seals, and bingo no need to buy any new calipers. If needed then the pistons will get an even lighter cleaning but most likely not.

SO, could those of you who replace calipers please tell me why you do, just for my education, thanks

Just my 2 cents worth of life experience

Preben
Click to expand...
I’ve read in the past that over time when the old fluid “breaks” (funny I know) down the particulates can find their way to accumulate and plug up inside. How does one know this is happening? That’s a good question. How do you know it’s pumping in and out at say 50% power? Not sure. I think time, miles, money, and assumed wear is what factors in on the decision to change them out.
 
#18 ·
cchampagne232000 said:
I'm approaching 100k miles on my vehicle and am about to replace the front brakes for the second time. I have never replaced the rotors but it appears I'm a bit behind the recommended replacement schedule. I have no vibrations when stopping, the rotors feel smooth to the touch, and I'm not getting any unusual noises of any kind. Is this just something that should be done as a matter of course or could I ride this out?


If they should be replaced then any recommendations on a replacement rotor? There are some cheapos on amazon...but they are slotted/drilled and I'm not really interested in that.
Click to expand...
You are so lucky!
 
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