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2015 RT, AC Recharge. Need HELP!

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JswflaRT

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone... I have tried several different brand of refrigerant to recharge our 2015 Dodge Durango RT, and it seems that the fitting is not going all the way in. In another words it doesnt fit in the low port located near the firewall of the driver side. Is there a piece missing on this puzzle that Im not aware of to get our vehicle recharge?

Thank in advance for all your replies.
 
#2 ·
Pictures of your parts would be helpful ! Do you have a can with a short hose/valve attached? Or what is you configuration? If you have a fitting problem then different brands won't make any difference. BTW why do you think that it needs Refrigerant? Taken any pressure measurements? Sometimes overfilling will reduce performance, I'm taking from experience :)

You might want to go to an A/C store and have them get you the correct setup.
 
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#3 ·
Did you buy the correct type refrigerant?
 
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
pridbor said:
Pictures of your parts would be helpful ! Do you have a can with a short hose/valve attached? Or what is you configuration? If you have a fitting problem then different brands won't make any difference. BTW why do you think that it needs Refrigerant? Taken any pressure measurements? Sometimes overfilling will reduce performance, I'm taking from experience :)

You might want to go to an A/C store and have them get you the correct setup.
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I brought the vehicle to the auto part local store, and try different cans without any success. The low port is threaded inside; do I need a particular fitting for this application. I brought the vehicle to the local Dodge dealer to have the coolant flush, and they gave the vehicle back:"by the way your condenser have a leak, and it will around $1000 to repair." So now when the AC is on, you car hear a constantly hissing noise. Im trying to use a Pro Super Seal A/C Stop Leak Treatment.
 
#7 ·
You're going to cause more issues with that sealing crap. It probably won't seal and it'll clog up all the plumbing so when it comes time to to do a real repair it'll probably be over twice as expensive. Good Luck!
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
DuRonbo said:
You're going to cause more issues with that sealing crap. It probably won't seal and it'll clog up all the plumbing so when it comes time to to do a real repair it'll probably be over twice as expensive. Good Luck!
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You may be right... but I can not see myself spending another $1K after all the money I just spent in maintenance. The vehicle has almost 105K miles on it, so I "had" to do transmission, differential, brake, and coolant flush... they advisor suggested to trade in the vehicle WTF!
 
#11 ·
Are you sure you're using the correct gas? Each generation of gas uses different fittings, r-12 uses one type, 134 uses another and 1234 uses a third. Also you're doing more harm to the system as you also loose the oil that is supposed to be used by the compressor as the system leaks, let alone the environment, just going this route. Get the leak fixed.
 
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#12 ·
JswflaRT said:
You may be right... but I can not see myself spending another $1K after all the money I just spent in maintenance. The vehicle has almost 105K miles on it, so I "had" to do transmission, differential, brake, and coolant flush... they advisor suggested to trade in the vehicle WTF!
Click to expand...
Sounds like they want money out of you either way. Seems like they might've "Oversold" you on maintenance? Did you check the maintenance schedule in your Owners manual to verify what was actually due? Brake flush for one sounds like B.S. to me.

Maybe try going to an Independent A/C repair shop for an estimate on your repair? The dealer is Never the cheapest option! The Condenser replacement/Repair should cost well under $1k as it's in front of the Radiator and not the Evaporator that's under the dash that costs a retarded amount to repair because of the dash disassembly, etc.

I'd try getting estimates from local shops that specialize in Air Conditioning repairs.
 
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#13 ·
JswflaRT said:
You may be right... but I can not see myself spending another $1K after all the money I just spent in maintenance. The vehicle has almost 105K miles on it, so I "had" to do transmission, differential, brake, and coolant flush... they advisor suggested to trade in the vehicle WTF!
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JSW:
You don't HAVE to do any maintenance that you don't want to do. That being said, we all know that regular maintenance is the best way to insure that our Durangos are in top shape, and will be dependable.

At 105K, the plugs are up for replaement but they can go another 10-20K if needed. Your coolant SHOULD be the long life purple type which is good for 10 years or 150K miles. That was not needed yet.

The trans, diffs, and transfer case would also be on my list at 100K, but you can do them piecemeal unless there is a specific issue that might be related to one of them.

The AC condenser on the Gen 3's is not uncommon it seems, as is the trans cooler. $1K is the going rate at the dealer. More than 1 D owner had reported that their dealer performed one or the other as a "goodwill" repair for a$100 deductible. I would not be happy that your dealer had you change the coolant 50,000 miles before it was due. Unless the plugs have already been done, they should have been done instead of the coolant.

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Don Fox said:
JSW:
You don't HAVE to do any maintenance that you don't want to do. That being said, we all know that regular maintenance is the best way to insure that our Durangos are in top shape, and will be dependable.

At 105K, the plugs are up for replaement but they can go another 10-20K if needed. Your coolant SHOULD be the long life purple type which is good for 10 years or 150K miles. That was not needed yet.

The trans, diffs, and transfer case would also be on my list at 100K, but you can do them piecemeal unless there is a specific issue that might be related to one of them.

The AC condenser on the Gen 3's is not uncommon it seems, as is the trans cooler. $1K is the going rate at the dealer. More than 1 D owner had reported that their dealer performed one or the other as a "goodwill" repair for a$100 deductible. I would not be happy that your dealer had you change the coolant 50,000 miles before it was due. Unless the plugs have already been done, they should have been done instead of the coolant.

Don
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Don... the vehicle went in with no AC problems. I called in for a the maintenance scheduled to be done, and a check engine light that was diagnose to be the purge valve, which it was replaced and engine light still on. Only after they returned the vehicle we star hearing the hissing noise, and now the system is not cooling much. This dealership is the worse !
 
#16 ·
JSW:
Sounds like they might have created more issues than they were supposed to have cured! If the new purge valve did not cure the CE light, then they need to make that right on their dime. All dealer repairs have a 12mo/12K warranty. While you are there, I would look further into the AC issue. Their "wrench" may have damaged it while diagnosing the purge valve. Be firm, but polite, and don't hesitate to engage corporate if they play games with you.

Don
 
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#17 ·
JswflaRT said:
Hello everyone... I have tried several different brand of refrigerant to recharge our 2015 Dodge Durango RT, and it seems that the fitting is not going all the way in. In another words it doesnt fit in the low port located near the firewall of the driver side. Is there a piece missing on this puzzle that Im not aware of to get our vehicle recharge? Thank in advance for all your replies.
Click to expand...
Hi so I had the same issue but it says it right on the cap that is a 1234 NOT a r134 hope this helps the only thing u need is an adaptor for the can
 
#18 ·
Please don't reply to 4 year old threads. Otherwise it's considered to be spamming.
 
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#20 ·
JswflaRT said:
Hello everyone... I have tried several different brand of refrigerant to recharge our 2015 Dodge Durango RT, and it seems that the fitting is not going all the way in. In another words it doesnt fit in the low port located near the firewall of the driver side. Is there a piece missing on this puzzle that Im not aware of to get our vehicle recharge?

Thank in advance for all your replies.
Click to expand...
I’m having the same issue
 
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