Hey guys, so my last 2 drives I've noticed my oil temperature got as high as 230. Both days were 32 degree's and colder. When I got to work today I popped the hood and saw nothing leaking. Truck currently has 22,000 miles and zero mods besides Corsa exhaust. This is my first issue in 3 years with this truck, it's a joy to drive. Any idea what It might be, common issues? Known water pump issues showing its face? Thank you in advance for the help.
Oil temp question
whitedoubleD
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Hey guys, so my last 2 drives I've noticed my oil temperature got as high as 230. Both days were 32 degree's and colder. When I got to work today I popped the hood and saw nothing leaking. Truck currently has 22,000 miles and zero mods besides Corsa exhaust. This is my first issue in 3 years with this truck, it's a joy to drive. Any idea what It might be, common issues? Known water pump issues showing its face? Thank you in advance for the help.
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Probably should take the corsa off and send it to me. Just to be on the safe side lol
How hard were you running her?
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WDD:
If your oil temp is that high, what was the coolant temp? If you were not running it hard as towing or an extended high speed run, it sounds like a cooling system issue. With only 22K, you should have plenty of powertrain warranty left. Have you checked the coolant level?
Don
If your oil temp is that high, what was the coolant temp? If you were not running it hard as towing or an extended high speed run, it sounds like a cooling system issue. With only 22K, you should have plenty of powertrain warranty left. Have you checked the coolant level?
Don
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Haha that was a quick fix. That's the funny part I was just driving in to work, regular driving.
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I'll check it tomorrow morning, when I popped the hood I was just checking for leaks. Thanks
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I really wouldn’t worry about 230F, saw it all the time on my 2011. A good synthetic can easily handle 300F, even a conventional is good up to about 275. The oil needs to get hot like that to drive out any moisture and impurities like fuel dilution out.
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Yeah I hear you, good thing I use Pennzoil Platinum. I just wanted to see if this is a sign of something bad about to happen. I've never seen it climb that high
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I'm usually around 203 to 205
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it is strange that it abnormally happened, have you driven it since? does it clime that high again?
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That is high for this time of year and with "normal" driving. As noted above, double check you coolant temperature gauge as well. Then check the both coolant AND oil levels to make sure they are both not low. Then check the grill and radiator area to make sure its not blocked or obstructed. If the condition continues, take it to the dealership since its still under warranty. If its just the oil that is running too hot, it may be something wrong with the oil cooler. If the oil and the coolant is running too high it could be a problem with something like the water pump or thermostat.
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Thanks for all the great advice. Engine bay was dry last night after driving it but also noticed that the coolant was at the low mark as well. Weird that's it low but no wet spots.
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Driving it home tonight after work. Def be keeping an eye on it.
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I had my leaking radiator replaced last month under my extended warranty - it failed the pressure leak down test. The coolant leak was somewhere low on the driver's side end tank and it dripped down on the top of the black plastic splash panel and it would tend evaporate. If it did dripped on the ground it was while the vehicle was running down the road. It never once dripped on the driveway, either after coming home from a long drive of after warming up on remote start. In about 34K miles of driving, the coolant dropped from the full to low level three (3) times. If you top off the coolant make sure you use the correct Mopar fluid, either concentrate (with distilled water) or the 50/50 pre-diluted.
Don't forget that the water pump on the Hemi has a known potential for leaking as well.
Don't forget that the water pump on the Hemi has a known potential for leaking as well.
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Again you guys are awesome. Thanks for all the tips
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Okay for reference only and this is not much help much because mine is a V6 with the HD cooling from the trailer/tow package, but.... It was -4 F air temp on the drive in to work this morning. I have a 18 mile drive and its a 50/50 mix, highway/city street. I remote started the Durango to let it warm up (of course). After the remote start period and maybe a mile down the road I finally got an oil temperature reading of above the minimal display value of <122 F. By the time I got to work, the oil temp had climbed to 165 F, the transmission temp was up to 139 F and the coolant temp gauge was showing just above the first mark - whatever the freaking hell that is supposed to translate to is anyone's guess (it sure would sure be nice to see a real coolant temp reading, but I digress ).
One easy/simple thing we may have over looked here is the oil temperature sensor. Unfortunately when you cold start the engine, the oil temperature display only reads <122 F. So there is no real way to see if the gauge is reading correctly when cold. That could be another thing to ask the dealership about - there is most likely a test procedure for the checking sensor itself as noted in the shop manual.
One easy/simple thing we may have over looked here is the oil temperature sensor. Unfortunately when you cold start the engine, the oil temperature display only reads <122 F. So there is no real way to see if the gauge is reading correctly when cold. That could be another thing to ask the dealership about - there is most likely a test procedure for the checking sensor itself as noted in the shop manual.
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Looking at the Grand Cherokee SRT site, I see that 230 to 270° oil temps have been commented on at various times. The thing is that I only once read that towing was involved. If these SRTs are rated to tow 8600 lb, I think the cooling system might be a little insufficient. Checking RockAuto, I see that no larger radiator is specified for trailer towing for the 2018 Durango SRT and also the 5.7 RT uses the same part!! Further investigation seems to indicate that the same pancake oil cooler above the oil filter is used on all 6.4 SRTs. That cooler is very similar to the one on my old 5.7 1989 Firebird, which had zero towing capacity and only 235 HP.
Back in my day a trailer towing option package always include a larger radiator. I think Dodge is depending a lot on the superior qualities of today's synthetic oils to pull through but those high temps have to take a toll on gaskets, hoses, and other underhood components.
I just read another thread about an SRT engine failure with spun bearings, I think, and wonder about the cause.
Back in my day a trailer towing option package always include a larger radiator. I think Dodge is depending a lot on the superior qualities of today's synthetic oils to pull through but those high temps have to take a toll on gaskets, hoses, and other underhood components.
I just read another thread about an SRT engine failure with spun bearings, I think, and wonder about the cause.
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I am an anal retentive automotive product engineer, I have been in the business for 35 years and I really don't like "thin" motors oil trends. I am not looking at trying to eke out the last 0.1 MPG for a CAFE rating. I am not going to go into the debates on viscosity at temperature or the bearing clearance vs oil weight or the hydrodynamics of the wedge on the bearing surface or the effects of oil weight on the effectiveness of VVT or MDS, etc... If I am not mistaken they recommend 0w-40 for the 6.4L, but I really find it hard to believe that the 5.7L can survive on 5w-20 while towing/working hard, especially in the heat of summer.
If everything is working properly and you are working the engine hard (have "fun" or hauling a heavy load/trailer) and you are seeing elevate oil temperatures, then you need to think about the effects of these elevated temperatures are having long term on the oil and how to remove the excess heat. The factory 5.7L oil cooler is a nothing more than liquid to liquid (oil to engine coolant) heat exchanger or more apply termed temperature "equalizer". Its primary function is to help warm the oil up faster on cold starts and then try to keep the coolant and oil temperature with-in a specific temperature delta. Once you start working the engine hard, you can quickly exceeded the capability of the factory setup to remove excess heat from the oil. Thinner weight oils can't do they jobs as well as a heavier weight oil at the same elevated oil temperatures. If you are going to work your 5.7L or 6.4L hard, I would high recommend a properly sized thermostatically controlled aftermarket oil cooler setup and run a heavier weight oil - say at least 5w-30 in the 5.7L and possibly 5w-50 in the 6.4L. If not spun rods bearings are a sure result from lower oil pressures due to "thin" oil being over heated and shearing down.
That a 1$ will buy you a senior coffee at McDonald's. As always, YMMV.
If everything is working properly and you are working the engine hard (have "fun" or hauling a heavy load/trailer) and you are seeing elevate oil temperatures, then you need to think about the effects of these elevated temperatures are having long term on the oil and how to remove the excess heat. The factory 5.7L oil cooler is a nothing more than liquid to liquid (oil to engine coolant) heat exchanger or more apply termed temperature "equalizer". Its primary function is to help warm the oil up faster on cold starts and then try to keep the coolant and oil temperature with-in a specific temperature delta. Once you start working the engine hard, you can quickly exceeded the capability of the factory setup to remove excess heat from the oil. Thinner weight oils can't do they jobs as well as a heavier weight oil at the same elevated oil temperatures. If you are going to work your 5.7L or 6.4L hard, I would high recommend a properly sized thermostatically controlled aftermarket oil cooler setup and run a heavier weight oil - say at least 5w-30 in the 5.7L and possibly 5w-50 in the 6.4L. If not spun rods bearings are a sure result from lower oil pressures due to "thin" oil being over heated and shearing down.
That a 1$ will buy you a senior coffee at McDonald's. As always, YMMV.
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For for shits and giggles, google about the BMW E46 M3 rod bearing failures and the switch to 10w-60. Chevrolet made the switch from 5w-30 to 0w-40 for the 2019 Corvette LT4 and LT5 supercharged engines and made it the retroactive dealership fill of all 2014-2019 Corvettes. They also recommend changing out the oil to 15w-50 for track day events with those vehicles. Fords factory fill on the 5.2L Voodoo in the GT350/R is 5w-50. The list goes on - thin oils maybe fine for you Toyota hybrids, but if you are going to work a high output, high RPM engine hard, you need a heavier weight oil that can handle the abuse and protect the bearings.
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Deacon, do you know for sure that the 5.7 is fitted with the same "pancake" oil cooler?
I thought it was only on the 6.4. I am just a guy on the fence concerning the purchase of a SRT with the 6.4, but am concerned about the towing capacity. With a 8600 lb towing capacity and all the talk of "track time", I thought there would be a large plate cooler in the radiator side tank or maybe an oil to air cooler like on the Hellcat Chargers. The Grand Cherokees are built the same way and I think FCA is trying to save money here.
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I don't know if it is on every single 5.7L in the '11+ Durango or if it only comes with say the trailing tow package, which includes "HD engine cooling". It would be fairly easy to spot as it is positioned above the oil filter and it would have two coolant hoses connected to it.
The factory 5.7L unit is 4893310AA
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4898166&cc=3300382&jsn=481
I believe this is the factory 6.4L unit is #5037523AB
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4895937&jsn=3
The factory 5.7L unit is 4893310AA
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4898166&cc=3300382&jsn=481
I believe this is the factory 6.4L unit is #5037523AB
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4895937&jsn=3
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