I have been having some issues with starting since the summer months. At first I thought it was vapor lock but now that it's cooling off, that's not the case. I replaced the spark plugs a few months ago and it helped, but now has gotten worse. It seems that the longer it sits, the worse it's to start. It now smells like fuel bad when it starts. When it does start, it coughs and sputters for about 15-30 secs. It's also now starting to get some bad idling problems while stopped in gear. It'll start surging and running rough until it gets above idle. Any ideas?
starting problems on 03 4.7L
03SLT+4.7L
21 - 40 of 60 Posts
Joined
·
5,764 Posts
here's a link to what my setup looks like, as you can see their is a SPW coming off of each coil.
http://www.autobytel.com/images/carPics/TestDrv/Lyons/04Durango/500/Durango_engine2.jpg
http://www.autobytel.com/images/carPics/TestDrv/Lyons/04Durango/500/Durango_engine2.jpg
Joined
·
15 Posts
mine must be the old one. I only had one coil per plug. and they're not fun to change, airbox removal and moving fuel lines.
Joined
·
2,058 Posts
The early Hemi's fired the second plug from the opposite bank. Actually firing on the exhaust stroke. Presumably done to complete the fuel consumption for emissions sake. Don't know if the newer models do the same thing. Looking at the Hemis during the plant tour, I couldn't tell if the configuration was the same.dizzyD said:
So, one plug on each cylinder is fired off the coil on the opposite side. Hence the need for a "plug wire", though not off a primary coil as we'd relate it in the past.
Joe
Joined
·
15 Posts
ok had the battery load tested and it checked out fine. The guy at O'Reillys thought maybe fuel pressure regulator? It makes sense but the longer it sits, the worse it's. If it has sat for less than 30min it fires right up, no problems. BUT if it sits longer, it acts up. I also ran their code scanner on it and there was nothing.
Joined
·
28,332 Posts
I'd say injector bleed down then if one of them isn't holding the fuel line loses its prime and must pu from tank.
Try This Turn key to run but don't start for a few seconds then turn to start if she fires right up the fuel is draing back down to tank if not look elsewhere for problem
WHen was TB cleaned last?
IAT SENSOR And IAC if gunked up vcan also cause some havoc
Steve
DOC Pres
Try This Turn key to run but don't start for a few seconds then turn to start if she fires right up the fuel is draing back down to tank if not look elsewhere for problem
WHen was TB cleaned last?
IAT SENSOR And IAC if gunked up vcan also cause some havoc
Steve
DOC Pres
Joined
·
15 Posts
yeah I have tried that before with the key. I also turned it on and off 6 times and no luck with that either. It still starts crappy.
I have never messed with the TB. all have done is change oil and spark plugs and new tires.
It acts like a bleed down issue, but then why does it act like it's flooded? I may just have to take it in and spend the money. :wall:
I have never messed with the TB. all have done is change oil and spark plugs and new tires.
It acts like a bleed down issue, but then why does it act like it's flooded? I may just have to take it in and spend the money. :wall:
Joined
·
28,332 Posts
Remove the air hat to access the TB
There are 2 sensors on the right side one is the tps and the other is IAC
Using a Torx screwdriver remove the IAC I believe its the lower one thoroughly clean that off and also clean inside the TB where it goes in.
NOW open the Butterfly to the TB and clean all that up as well with the TB Cleaner
Try This before going in to dealer
Steve
DOC Pres
There are 2 sensors on the right side one is the tps and the other is IAC
Using a Torx screwdriver remove the IAC I believe its the lower one thoroughly clean that off and also clean inside the TB where it goes in.
NOW open the Butterfly to the TB and clean all that up as well with the TB Cleaner
Try This before going in to dealer
Steve
DOC Pres
Joined
·
28,332 Posts
You can test to see if you're losing fuel pressure with D sitting by going to fuel rail after D sits and pushing gently on the schrader fitting if there's still pressure its another problem not an injector. If there's no pressure it's leaking down. be careful the gas doesn't squirt you in the eyes and do this with D off and cold.
Steve
DOC Pres
Steve
DOC Pres
Joined
·
15 Posts
ok, for the past 2 days it has been starting just fine 2-3 secs of cranking and it fires right up.
I put a pressure tester on the fuel rail last nite and found 0psi initially. I turned the key on and it went to 45psi. I started it and the pressure went to 50psi. With the key off, it fell to 35psi after about 10 minutes. I unplugged the pressure regulator (which is on the drivers side framerail) or what I hope was the regulator, and noticed no difference. It starts, runs, and drives fine. This morning I went to check it and there was 0psi. I turned the key on and it primed to 45psi, then I started it and it went to 50psi with no problems.
Could it be the pressure regulator working intermittently? Or perhaps the fuel pump?
I put a pressure tester on the fuel rail last nite and found 0psi initially. I turned the key on and it went to 45psi. I started it and the pressure went to 50psi. With the key off, it fell to 35psi after about 10 minutes. I unplugged the pressure regulator (which is on the drivers side framerail) or what I hope was the regulator, and noticed no difference. It starts, runs, and drives fine. This morning I went to check it and there was 0psi. I turned the key on and it primed to 45psi, then I started it and it went to 50psi with no problems.
Could it be the pressure regulator working intermittently? Or perhaps the fuel pump?
21 - 40 of 60 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
