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LizzR

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2007 Chrysler Aspen Limited 5.7 Hemi
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18 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all -

I'm new to this forum and am trying to find a fix for my 2007 Aspen (which is the sister car to the Durango) HVAC issue. I have seen the problem listed, but have not found any solution other than to take it to a dealer for a fix that costs more than $1000. I'm too cheap for that and think that I (and my hubbie and son) are handy enough to tackle fixing it ourselves.

Problem: The heat and a/c only come out the top vents, no matter what the setting. In my research, it seems to be an issue with the mode door that is located at the bottom of the dash, above the driver's feet. There is an actuator that turns the mode door which will change where the air is directed - to the floor, upper vents, and/or the defrost vents. The problem seems to be with the piece that connects the door to the actuator - it is made of plastic and tends to break and so the connection is lost between the actuator and the door.

The Fix: Theoretically, the fix is to replace the broken connector thingy. In order to do this, you have to take the mode door apart.

Has anyone done the fix? We're not afraid to pull the dash apart and work on it. It's been posted that its at least a 5 hour job, that it's a little tedious, and a pain in the rear, but not overly difficult. We're ready and willing to take on the challenge. A little guidance would be helpful. I've seen a few videos on fixing the same problem in a Dodge Ram. Would this be the same?

If you've done this fix, I'd really like to hear from you.

Thanks!

-LizzR
 
Hello, I’m in the middle of this fix right now. I took the dash out tonight and it wasn’t too hard, took a few hours. Now I can see my mode door is broken but I’m having a hard time finding a replacement part. There seem to be lots of parts for the Ram from companies like Blend Door USA and Heater Treater but nothing for the Durango/Aspen. If you find any leads, would you mind sharing them. Also if you need any excerpts from the manual let me know. (2008 Aspen). Mark
 
Well, I finished the fix today. I didn’t really count the time but it was Sat and Sun with a few breaks :) I ended up installing a 1/4” rod down the hinge of the panel mode door and then I fabbed up an adapter to mate to the motor adapter. I epoxied the rod in place so it will not spin. Like you said in your post, it is tedious but not painful. Just take your time and you’ll do fine.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Hi thomps22 -

Thank you soooooo much for the updates. I'm glad that you got it fixed. Thank you for your details. I guess that I will probably end up taking the same route as you. I have the luxury of a spare car, so I thought that I could spend some time tracking down new parts. I don't know if that will be possible, but I am willing to do some research and see if there is anything out there.

I'll probably start my adventure next weekend. I'll try to post pictures and add some detail if I can. Beware! I may have more questions for you, LOL.

Thanks again.

-LizzR
 
I took a few pictures. I hope they post in order but I'm on mobile so I'm not sure if it will. 1st pic is of the broken piece which is part of the panel mode door. 2nd is the motor with plastic drive adapter. On mine these parts were fine. 3rd and 4th are pics of my fix. Wasn't planning on doing it this way but kinda had no choice when I could not find parts. 5th is the HVAC housing where the motor mounts. It was chowdered up because the motor was spinning. I put epoxy around it and I hope it holds.
 

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
Wow! Awesome pictures. Thanks! I did some research on parts last night and I could only find the part for the whole AC & Heater Case (PN 68057728AA for auto temp control and dual zone). It looks like it's the whole plastic case with mode and blend doors and costs anywhere from $300 - $500 w/shipping. I think, though, that it is the original part and that it has not been upgraded to prevent the doors from breaking again.

I'll update as soon as I start the project.

-LizzR
 
Hello, I drove the vehicle all week and it sure was nice to have floor heat as it is single digits Celsius (30-40F). Time will tell how long it holds up but I think it will do fine. If you need any pages out of the manual let me know.

Cheers,
Mark
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
This afternoon (Sunday) was the start of the removal of the dashboard. A million screws, many trim panels and maybe 3 or 4 hours later, it is all loose and just about ready to come out. We've lost daylight and it's getting chilly, so we'll continue next weekend as I'm not sure that we'll be able to get to it after work during the week.

I was able to find a helpful YouTube video by Denis Ory titled "2004 Dodge Durango Dash Removal part2" that was very helpful. There is also a part1 that I did not watch, but I think I was already past what that covers.

I will try to post some pictures that may be helpful to others. So far I have not stumbled on anything that is noteworthy.

Mark - I'm happy to hear that yours is doing fine. I'm looking forward to the same results!

-LizzR
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Hello all -

Got some good weather, so this is the weekend to tackle the A/C. The dash is now removed and sitting on the front seat. After removing the mode door actuator and the top cover on the HVAC housing, it is confirmed that we have the exact same failure that Mark experienced. If I were to post pictures, they would be identical. The only difference is that the stop on the outside of the housing is sheared entirely off.

We're thinking that we are going to do the same epoxy/rod fix that Mark did, but may try something a little beefier than epoxy to repair the stop on the outside of the housing. So, off we go...

I'll update more and post any pictures that could be helpful a little later.

Thanks, Mark, for your help - I really appreciate this forum and am happy to help other out as well.

-LizzR
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Good News!

All fixed and ready to go!

On Saturday we were able to remove the dashboard and lay it across the seats - there was enough slack in the harness to allow for it. We had planned to take it all the way out, but it seemed a little too daunting to remove it completely. Having it on the seats allowed enough room to access the HVAC case and get to the mode door, which is accessible from the top of it. The cover comes off with the removal of The mode door is easy to remove after taking out 6 screws. Take a look at the picture for their location - you can just push the foam away near the screw without taking the foam off. The corner of the mode door was broken completely off. The door was repaired by putting in a screw through it and then covering it with 2-part epoxy to bind it all together, and letting it cure over night. It seems that the failure occurred because the stop on the outside of HVAC case failed. There is a stop at 9 o'clock that was fine and intact, but the stop at 6 o'clock was sheared off. This allowed the actuator to keep spinning and rip off the corner of the mode door. We screwed in a small piece metal stock to act as the new stop, making sure that the door will clear the screw heads. There is a good explanation of how the actuator works on the www.blenddoorusa.com website when you click on "An Important note on Door Actuators:" on their home page.

On Sunday it was time to reassemble. But before we did, we took a closer look at the fuse box on the driver's side, as we had the panels off surrounding it and we knew that there was some water infiltration when the sun roof drain had clogged and water made its way down the pillar to the fuse box. There was corrosion at some of the terminals, so we cleaned them up and lubed them.

We organized all off the screws and bolts to make it easier find the type we will need . Next was the installation of the repaired mode door, reinstalling the cover and then methodically reinstalling the dashboard and all the panels. After everything was in, we didn't even have any extra screws! All were present and accounted for. After hooking up the battery and testing, everything was A-OK. Whew! I'll add a couple of pictures in another reply to this post.

Thanks again to all, and I hope that this post helps others.

-LizzR
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Here is the first step - removing the dashboard to expose the HVAC case.
We were winging it, so we did remove more than we had to. Could have left the radio in and probably the glove box as well.
Key to this step of the process was the use of the set of nylon panel removing tools. No clips were broken, nor were any dings or scratches made. View attachment 101104
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #13 ·
Repair the broken stop on the outside of the HVAC case. First picture is the view of the outside of the box, 2nd picture is the view of the inside of the box before the mode door was re-installed.

View attachment 101120


The stop located at 9 o'clock was intact.
The stop located at 6 o'clock was broken off. Replaced it with a small piece of metal stock that was held in place with screws. The actuator screws in at the 3 points in the picture. There is a coupling that connects the actuator to the mode door that has a tab that hits the stops to limit the movement of the door.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Insert the repaired mode door. 1st picture shows the door hanging straight down - the stop on the actuator coupling is hitting the 9 o'clock stop, so you see just the top edge. In the 2nd picture, I'm holding the door up - the stop on the actuator coupling is hitting the 6 o'clock stop.



Install the actuator. Install the mode door cover.

Install the dashboard.

Tah-dah! You're done! Hook up the battery and you are back in business.
 
Awesome write up! I’m glad you got your door working as well. I love seeing the ingenuity to get things up and running. It is cold here now -5C (high 20s F) and mine continues to work well. I’m sure yours will as well.
 
I need this repair but not as mechanical as you folks. Local shop asking $1,800 to do the repair - including replacing the heater core why it's apart.... 2007 with 160K miles.
I would shop around for quotes, but if you can afford it, I think the intensiveness of this process would be well worth $1000 to not have to do it myself. The stress of pulling a dash apart isn't worth it, IMO.
 
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