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Idel issue, Dies at stop!! Help Please.

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15K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  B34R872  
J
#1 ·
I own a 2003 4.7 L Durango. For the last 4 months I have been having some troubles with the idle. The idle constantly changes from 700 to 500 RPM, and sometimes lower. At some points it will start idling around 300 RPM and then when I come to a complete stop it will probably stall out. It has stalled out multiple times,
sometimes when I'm at a full stop and sometimes when I'm coasting slowly (like through a parking lot for example). Most times after it stalls it does not have any problem starting back up, but it will idle low for a while. A few times it has stalled and has not been able to keep itself running. It will stay running if I keep my foot on the
gas, but wont idle. I figured out that if I unhook the battery and cleaned the terminals. I have replaced the throttle position sensor, the idle air control, cleaned the throttle body and it continues to happen. Not really sure what
else I can replace to get this fixed. Insight would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has any experience with this same issue, I would greatly appreciate any assistance you can provide!! Than you in advance!!:mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
#4 · (Edited)
Bad battery is the #1 cause of unstable idle on Gen-Is..
"testing" the battery tells you nothing.
Four years is getting to the end of life.
If the battery has even been run down far enough to have to have been jumped/charged, then the battery is immediately suspect.

It will take a while for the PCM to relearn after you replace the battery.
 
J
#5 ·
Thanks for all the advice and trouble shooting. I did have one more thing to add to this though. When I turn the A/C on, the car seems to idle fine, with no issues. If the Battery was the issue wouldn't this create a larger load on the system and cause the issue to be worse? Just curious, as I need to determine if the battery is bad before I buy a new one. Thanks
 
#10 · (Edited)
Since the A/C is boosting the idle properly, (See Don's last post), you can probably assume the TPS is still ok, as it receives the command from the A/C-ON, to bump-up the idle. Dunno about the IAC though.
I concur with the others who recommend battery first. It's due anyway. I never had a stalling issue with my '02 4.7 in my Ram, but the idle did float all over the place before the battery failed completely once. Again, no stalling, but it was annoying, and "went away" with the new battery and 20 minutes of normal driving (disconnecting the battery to change it out will cause a reset, which your PCM will have to 'relearn' your engine).. I know it's odd, but several other members here who ran into this issue resolved it with a new battery.
 
R
#6 ·
I have an '02 Durango with the 4.7 and have had the same problem, but it was after the truck had been sitting in my garage for a year and a half, while I saved up enough to put completely new brakes on the front wheels, rotors, calipers, and pads. I also replaced the spark plugs, battery, and flushed out the engine and refilled with full synthetic oil. I also had to replace a " fuel vapor leak detection pump" after the check engine light came on. After all this was done, the truck was idling like yours. Fluctuating and dying occasionally when I came to a stop. I ran a can of B12 Chemtool through the tank and opened up the engine a few times, and it seems to have cured it, for now.
 
#7 · (Edited)
(SOLUTION) My old 2001 Durango had the fluctuating rpm and stalling issue a few times. Usually the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC Valve) and or Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Both are about 30-40$ and if you have a torx wrench kit you can easily replace them yourself. On top side of engine with 2 screws and they pop right out. It often didn't seem to be a cleaning issue, tried a few times and didn't help. Once replaced entire unit I was good. I think they just go bad over time. Also sometimes the replacements suck and don't fix it. If you try it and it doesn't work the first time, return it and grab a different brand one. If that doesnt do it then the issue is a air leak in one of the hoses or hose connections (they crack over time). Either way there's 3 very likely culprits and cheap fixes.

ALSO if you replace the IAC valve or TPS let the engine idle for 20-30 minutes afterwards so the engine computer recalibrates the new one.
 
#9 ·
SLR3016 said:
(SOLUTION) ALSO if you replace the IAC valve or TPS let the engine idle for 20-30 minutes afterwards so the engine computer recalibrates the new one.
Click to expand...
Wow, it seems like 2-3 minutes at idle should be good enough for the IAC. The TPS should be good to go just after startup.
 
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#8 ·
JW:
As mentioned, the battery should be load tested, not simply checked with a voltmeter. When you activate the AC, the computer bumps up the throttle a bit to help compensate for when the compressor engages. The comments about IAB are good also, but make sure you battery and its connections are in god shape first.

Don
 
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#11 ·
TPS needs an ignition-on closed-wideopen-closed cycle to calibrate. But an uncalibrated TPS usually doesn't cause much trouble.

My experience with the idle control on Gen-Is is that it takes some stop-and-go driving to fully calibrate. A few throttle blips in neutral from idle will help as well (often the first throttle blip will cause a stall)
 
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