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DuvShack

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my ‘18 Durango SRT is new, only has about 1500 Miles on it. The A/C gets unusually warm when stopping at idle. I’ve actually measured it and temp discharge gets to the mid 60s. When I return to driving, it goes back down to the high 30s/low 40s range.

It’s hot here in Vegas. But I’ve owned several cars and they don’t do this. The only difference is my Durango has that new Freon in it and I’m not sure if it affects the discharge this much. I would hope not. It’s pretty uncomfortable.

Does anybody has any thermometers that can take readings of their cars for me for a comparison?

I’m taking it to the dealer on Wednesday for some other stuff so they’re going to take a look at it. Just am curious what other people’s results are.


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I took my DD to dealer due to same feeling I was getting, they tested everything and came out with this formula.
My AC just fine, it's made to drop temp at extreme hot conditions by 27-30F and it was doing just that.
SO outside was 90F, it was blowing out at 62F.
If you use REC, you should get better results by another 10F because you taking cooler cabin air and cooling more, 40F drop.

Thats what I got out of dealer...
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I took my DD to dealer due to same feeling I was getting, they tested everything and came out with this formula.
My AC just fine, it's made to drop temp at extreme hot conditions by 27-30F and it was doing just that.
SO outside was 90F, it was blowing out at 62F.
If you use REC, you should get better results by another 10F because you taking cooler cabin air and cooling more, 40F drop.

Thats what I got out of dealer...
Jesus.

None of my other cars do this.


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I think dodge has AC undersized for the car size, but it's my own opinion.
No, I definitely agree with you 100%. My 2011 Durango, even with a brand new condenser, compressor, and a professional dealership charge blew "meh" at best on those 100+F days.

Now that the rango is gone and replaced by the 300, the 300 with its newer 1234yf blows cold enough to freeze water it feels like. I usually leave it at 75! Durango would have to be cranked to "LO"! Even my Caliber will freeze you out in no time.

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I live in Phoenix...its been as hot as 120. 14 RT/AWD. I have owned a charger, magnum and a few other v8 equipped cars. Yes my DD warms up at idle with the car still/not moving. The DD has a lot more area inside to cool than a sedan or four door. Once moving and air is being forced through the cooling system it cools off immediately. I have never had a car not exhibit that behavior especially when it sits for hours on end parked and everything inside cooks. The vents, ducting, everything under the hood cooks beyond touch...it takes awhile for that to cool down. I do wish it was a tad bit cooler even at idle but, that's something I have gotten used to living in Hell. I grew up in AK and the same was true in the winter with the heater/defrost. When it was super cold, we only saw luke warm temps. In contrast we owned a newer civic back in 07 while in Phoenix. At idle at a stop light, the Civic would shut off the condenser to conserve fuel....crazy...it was black...we got rid of it quickly.
 
Might be, if you don't have any interesting cargo in the third row, make sure the rear AC is off.

My '14 GC (with max cooling) cools very well, even at idle (just tested this out waiting to meet Lauren at noon during the recent heatwave/humidwave here), the D isn't all THAT much larger than the GC inside.. BTW, the max cooling electric radiator fan is a beast, sometimes when I remote start in a hot parking lot I worry it is going to suck in a Yaris.. ;)

I have no experience with the R1234yf setup in 2015+.
 
I've done some work on the other side (techs and refrigeration tools/gauges/etc) .. 1234yf is "different" but what I'm hearing is that the manufacturers have resized and recalibrated such that the 1234yf systems have the same or better cooling capacity as the 134a systems.

Techs don't want to do the full performance test, mostly because they aren't gonna get paid for it.

this is yet another case where change is used as an excuse..
"well, this TV has transistors in it, you can't expect it to perform as well as a TV that is all tubes!"
 
I live in Jacksonville, Florida and our '17 Durango R/T blows cold enough to make your hands hurt if it's aimed at the steering wheel.

My '15 Challenger SRT had some issues keeping the cabin cool a month-or-so ago. Turned out the the door that blends hot and cold air to maintain separate temps on the driver's side versus the passenger's side wasn't operating properly. The dealer performed an update to the HVAC software and the problem was solved.
 
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I live in Jacksonville, Florida and our '17 Durango R/T blows cold enough to make your hands hurt if it's aimed at the steering wheel.

My '15 Challenger SRT had some issues keeping the cabin cool a month-or-so ago. Turned out the the door that blends hot and cold air to maintain separate temps on the driver's side versus the passenger's side wasn't operating properly. The dealer performed an update to the HVAC software and the problem was solved.
Similar performance here in SW Florida with '17SXT. Excellent dual zone thermostats up front, and I'll get rid of ANY vehicle with poor A/C before being told "That vent temp is normal". To me, A/C is as important as brakes..[tic] I should'a been born in Nome as opposed to Miami. ;)
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Similar performance here in SW Florida with '17SXT. Excellent dual zone thermostats up front, and I'll get rid of ANY vehicle with poor A/C before being told "That vent temp is normal". To me, A/C is as important as brakes..[tic] I should'a been born in Nome as opposed to Miami. ;)
And this is at idle, right?


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And this is at idle, right?


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I don't think yours is acting right at all. But to answer your question, Yes --but not for the first 10 minutes or so, at idle. And if I drive someplace, get out and leave the DD running, the A/C's performance is stable, maintaining the t-stat settings, regardless ,whether it's 10 minutes in the store, or an hour..
ALL my past vehicles also required that very first "cool-down" time, as the Sun beats down on our 'superheated' interiors. My DD has a solid black interior, so initial cool-down time is noticeably longer than other vehicles I've had, with lighter colors inside.
I wanted the taupe interior for this reason, but the dealer wouldn't budge on the price on that one. So jet-black, it is. The color of cars here in the "Land of the Midnight Sauna" matters. Yeah, there are plenty of black vehicles --- but those are the transplanted snow birds, touristas, or folks with air conditioned garages. Those Charcoal SRT's are real head-turners here.
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
So, here’s another example. It’s 102* out. I’ve been driving for 15 minutes and the A/C discharge temp actually got into the teens while driving. High 18.

This is after that drive, idling for about 4-5 minutes. If they say this is normal, I’m going to shit myself.
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When I shut off the rear ac the front cools better, but it still is a piece of shit imop for 50k to cool like this.
This system is definitely undersized
 
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