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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Sure, lose that mentality. Put a number in your mind where you are happy and do not move off it, period. Worse that can happen is it doesn't happen. It may be a disappointment, but will it ruin your life? For me, I've been young and less experienced, and played *their* game long enough. Most dealers would prefer I visit another dealer, because I drive them absolutely insane. They simply can't comprehend that I am willing to walk away from a very good deal over something as 'trivial' as a couple hundred dollars. But I have before, quite recently in fact (Monday).

You can't allow yourself to feel that you are on the defensive at any time. Regardless of the final price, they will make money off you somehow.
Thanks for the good advice. Appreciate it!

On a barely related note:

My dad is a kind soul and generally tries to do right by people but doesn't like to get pushed around in deals. I recall as a kid going to the big Dodge super-dealership of the era with him in the search for a new RAM. It took hours as they went over every option and talked over different details. After all this the salesman brought him a number. My dad said the price of the new truck was good but the price on his trade was $500 too low. He then informed them that he was a cash (i.e. personal check) buyer and was ready to buy as long as they upped the trade-in value by $500.

The salesman refused and started talking down my dad's old truck which was well-worn but sentimental to him. My dad gave him another chance to up the trade value by $500 and when the salesman refused, he told me to put my jacket on and we left never to return. The people at the dealership were awe struck.
 
Most people will swallow that little bit because the draw to the new ride is strong, and the dealers know that. You the consumer needs to know that too, and keep your sights right. It may not be a big deal to you but it is to me. Salesman said I was selfish and greedy, in faxct, and I really made him have a bad day. So now that extra little bit I insisted on was a fine for insulting me! :cool:
 
I don't know how many times that I have walked on a new car order deal. They always seem to lowball the trade and I walk. This is after they try everything possible to get me to see or test drive the ordered car. I refuse to do that so that it is easier to walk away from a bad deal. The dealer doesn't mind it because they get to sit on the deposit for 6-8 weeks and they get another lot car outside of their allotment.
 
You could try cargurus.com for the build you are looking for. Each car detail shows the package(s) added. I think it is one of the easier sites to use. Also, you could get an internet price at Dennis Dillon Auto Park: New & Used Dealer in Boise near Nampa & Caldwell ID

This dealership has a rep for good deals and you can get an offer from them and use it to negotiate the price at your local dealership.

I've also used Kbb.com to look at invoice pricing on a specific build and 'what others paid' which helps when negotiating and knowing what $500 over invoice would cost, for example.

I usually go and offer $250-$500 over invoice and they can take it or leave it. The dealership still has to make money, so I'm good with that as I don't buy there add on services like interior stain protection, etc.

I'm going to order my build as I'm looking for something specific, which also includes the red interior.

Finally, if they ask you how much you want to pay monthly, don't answer. Just tell them what you are willing to pay for the car and that's it. Either they take it or not. Be willing to walk away and don't get emotionally invested because there are many places you could buy from, for example Dennis Dillon.
 
Oh wow. You're definitely better at this sort of thing than I am.

By any chance can you offer any suggestions or tips for negotiating the deal? My mentality is they have me in a precarious position so I wouldn't be as bold as I would in a situation where I could just drive down the road.
You need to know what the car is worth and what you are willing to pay. I don't always get the deals I am hoping for, but sometimes my time is worth more than the extra couple hundred dollars I am trying to get.

#2, don't limit yourself to one dealer. If a car doesn't have the exact options you want, then maybe sacrifice. For instance, is having a red interior worth a deal that might be $3,000 more than a local black interior model? If it doesn't have a hitch, that's an easy install and talked about on this forum. That is almost what I had to do because I couldn't find my combo. It's 1,000 from the factory, but you can install yourself with OEM parts for $500, or get the dealer to install for $700.

#3 find a similar model close to you. Work numbers at a couple dealerships with cars they have on the lot. That will give you some ammo to go against the dealers with the exact model you want out of state. Dealers out of state know that the sale most likely won't happen so they won't put a lot of effort into it. You need to talk on the phone, tell them you want to spend $XXX and you will put a deposit on the phone right then and there if you can make the numbers work. I find that email does not always work well for dealers out of state.

My last purchase out of state was 3 years ago. I was shopping Golf Rs since they just became available. I had a trade value from a couple local dealers, and the price on the new car wasn't what I was willing to pay. I held tight and one popped up about 4 hours from me. I called them up, told them what I wanted to pay and what other dealers were offering for my trade. They called me back, we made the deal over the phone and I put a deposit down and drove out the next day. Saved $1200.

Patience pays off when car buying. If they know you are driving 1000 miles for a car, then they know you want something they have. They will push you a little more than if you were down the street. That doesn't mean you can't get the same deal. Also, make sure you get paperwork before heading down. Lot of dealers will tell you one price, then you get to the dealer and the price doesn't work, or there's extras, or you don't qualify for xxxx. In the case of the Golf, I was willing to walk because they were trying to get me for 2.5% interest. I told them no way. I could get 1.9% from my Credit Union. I was putting on my coat and then all of a sudden they made 1.8% happen. They knew I was 4 hours from home, but I wasn't going to take their BS. Most people would probably give in. I know what the rates were and what I was qualified for so they couldn't pull that BS on me and they knew it.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
SOLD!

I ended up taking the advice from here and I was able to get it for $1000 under invoice and a financing rate that was 0.5% better than anything I was able to find on my own. In the end, that put it around $4500 under MSRP which was a better deal than anyone else I had talked to was willing to do. I'm sure others have done better but it was a good enough deal for me to pull the trigger.

Concerning the mileage/demo. I looked it over very thoroughly and other than a little scuff on one of the seats, it was in new condition. I talked for a while to the person who had been driving it and while there is no way to know for sure, I would be shocked if he had been beating on it.

Also picked up a MaxCare warranty to 75K on a recommendation here. It ended up being quite a bit cheaper than the 3rd party option they were selling.

I REALLY like it so far and am glad I chose to buy it.
 
Discussion starter · #29 · (Edited)
Here are some quick and dirty pictures. Yes, that is snow cover in mid/late April; the aftermath of the recent blizzard here.





Absolutely loving it so far. According to the dash, I averaged 23.6mpg over the 250 miles I drove it home. Of course that's pure highway, mostly at or under 65mph, but hey - it's something. I thought Beats Audio was a little hokey but I actually think it sounds pretty good. The seating position is a little different than the Outbacks I've been driving but that just needs a little getting used to.
 
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